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Post by Zed. on Mar 22, 2021 20:21:35 GMT
Okey, needed to post random rubbish to make this threads 600th post  on a serious note, I'm looking into an electronic speedo & have found nos Stack items on ebay for sensible £££'s so this might happen... would be able to use a mk2/2.5 vss from the gearbox but not accurate if theres wheelspin so a sensor on a front hub (more accurate & easier to work out the pulses for programming the speedo) counting the back of wheelstuds can be used  more to follow.... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Mar 23, 2021 23:57:18 GMT
electronic speedo tangent time...  1 mile = 160934cm / 1,609,344mm (ish) 195/50/15 tyre has an aproximate Circumference of 1809.6mm. so 1 Mile devided by 1809.6mm = 889.33687. therefore a 195/50/15 tyre turns 889.33687 times per mile. if I use a proxi-sensor counting wheelstuds (x4) on a front hub... 4 x 889.33687 = 3557.34748 pulses per mile. to complicate matters I could use an oem ABS sensor but they have a lot of 'teeth' on the reluctor-ring (not counted so unsure how many?) so that would be a much higher pulse-per-mile count... same with the oem Mazda electronic speedo drive senders that replace a mecanical speedo cable. am I over thinking an electronic speedo (just to remove a heavy drive cable from the dashboard & underbonnet area? (ok, it also removes the 'false' speed & distance error of a gearbox / final-drive (wheelspin?) related speedometer) not bought the speedo yet.... hummmmmmmmm...... Rich. |
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Post by dadbif on Mar 24, 2021 7:39:40 GMT
Have you thought of using a bicycle speedometer? May not look pretty, but they are easy to install and they work.
I have used one in a car in the past.
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Post by Zed. on Mar 24, 2021 20:37:00 GMT
jumped back to the Fidanza adjustable cam pulleys... they come with an M5 allenbolt (mushroom-head) and plain nut as fastening (with a flatwasher over the slot & springwasher to lock) but I'm not a fan of plain nuts / springwashers... bought some 'K nuts', these are the 'K nuts' with inbuilt washer. kl-projects.be/products/khxw-m5-080/ the image shows how small the nut is - M5 thread & 6mm across the flats for a 6mm spanner / socket.  tried one on a pulley to compare against the 'standard' Fidanza offering. also lighter! back onto Electronic speedometer... Have you thought of using a bicycle speedometer? May not look pretty, but they are easy to install and they work. I have used one in a car in the past. I've seen a few fitted on rallycars for road-sections, dont think the sender / trigger will handle a lot of abuse though I've ordered a Stack 3851 Speedometer so loosing the mecanical drive-cable from gearbox to dashboard & less clutter underbonnet.... www.autometer.com/media/manual/2650-1503.pdfalso, the ebay seller had an 'offer' on a bundle of 3 other Stack gauges - ST3366 Voltmeter (8-18V), ST3359 Oil Temperature (40*-140* C) and ST3367 Clock (time). I wanted the Oil-Temperature gauge so for a few £££'s more have the option of a timeclock & voltmeter.... more faff to follow... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Mar 26, 2021 20:42:22 GMT
I've been thinking about front wheelbearings, I'd sandblasted & painted a used set then fitted longer wheelstuds but wasn't happy with the bearings themselves as they're old and have slight play so looked into replacements. theres a thread on MT.net about conversion to use BM W E30 front hubs but these will only fit with adapter sleeve & a spacer to correct offset. I looked in my (old, printed in 2000) Delphi wheelbearing listing book and... the BM W E30 hub bearing has a 31mm inner diameter and is 60.9mm tall / thick. the Mazda Mx5 NA/NB hub bearing has a 28mm inner diameter and is 67.5mm tall / thick. and, looking on ebay...  so, couldn't resist I suppose I'll have to start measuring & designing a spacer to fit the Mazda stubaxle now.... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Mar 27, 2021 11:13:32 GMT
more in the parts-pile...  found a standalone ecu - engine loom made for a Ford St170 engine & believed for an Emerald ecu. I'm not going to use an ST170 engine or have an Emerald ecu* but this loom carries good connectors and can easily be adapted to any ecu / sensor combo. there is method in my madness I assure you (doubt anyones convinced though ) maybe I'll sort an ecu and can start properly wiring the car.... Rich. *no complaits about emerald, just don't have one! |
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Post by Zed. on Mar 27, 2021 13:09:52 GMT
 gauge delivery this morning. I wanted an oil temperature gauge & saw these Stack items on ebay at an offer price.  the oil temp gauge is supplied with a sub-loom and temp sensor with a few different thread size adapters so easily fitted (although I want the sender in the oil tank so will make an aluminium boss to weld into the sidewall.)  the speedometer answered a few questions, I've a 4.778:1 final drive / diff so standard speedometer will not read accurately and this electronic speedometer is programmable and can use different sensors like the mk2/2.5 oem gearbox sender or a hall-effect 'proximity' sender reading wheelstuds from the rear of a wheelhub (very accurate as no wheelspin issues).  the voltmeter is handy but not needed so I might sell it...  same as the clock.  I already have an Elliot 10K rpm telltale tacometer (rebranded as Racers Hardware) that has a white face so will match the speedometer, suppose I need to look for white faced coolant temp, oil pressure & fuel level gauges to match now now to make a cluster faceboard (carbon / kevlar sheet?) and mount them.... Rich. |
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Post by niklas on Mar 27, 2021 19:11:47 GMT
I really like stack, but considering all the things. What ecu will you run? A capable ecu and a dash will show you everything. And even though you find bargains you are spending considerable money already  |
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Post by Zed. on Mar 27, 2021 20:08:10 GMT
I really like stack, but considering all the things. What ecu will you run? A capable ecu and a dash will show you everything. And even though you find bargains you are spending considerable money already the Stack Gauges were cheap, all 4 gauges cost less than buying a speedometer at retail price & not much more than buying the voltmeter or clock at retail price so didn't break the bank as to ecu, I'm going to use a standalone unit, partly to avoid 30 year old engine wiring & partly as theres more options available. as to ecu loom purchases I'd be needing one to go with the chosen ecu so a £30 loom wasn't expensive  as to the spending, I've a few projects on the go so parts can be used between and if they're not going to be used then they're sold... hopefully Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Mar 27, 2021 20:34:33 GMT
while thinking about clusters & gauges I decided to convert the white 1990 Eunos's speedo from kmh (with 120mph face) to UK spec 140mph and swap the warning-lamp film from the jdm item (with the cat 'heat' warning) to UKdm (with the rear foglamp warning).  the origonal / post import speed conversion mph face on the kmh speedo.  140mph UK spec speedo from a spare cluster. the odometer was adjusted to show the correct millage (124,200km = 77,174miles).  I also had this....  that lives here on the speedo....  like this....  now have a vss sender so can have cruise-control with a few other parts if I trip over them  no 180kmh speedlimiter  rsw (badly circled!) is the vss output, takes power from the other screw in the circle.  completed item & rear foglamp warning light, now UK MOT legal one less job on the list so now to refit in the car & hopefully in the summer I'll finish the bodywork repairs & get it mot'd... Rich. |
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Post by atlex on Mar 29, 2021 11:45:08 GMT
Love the k-nut stuff. I'm always interested in peculiar weightloss with fasteners  gr5 TI fasteners are surprisingly cheap now btw, thanks china! |
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Post by Zed. on Mar 29, 2021 18:27:21 GMT
Love the k-nut stuff. I'm always interested in peculiar weightloss with fasteners gr5 TI fasteners are surprisingly cheap now btw, thanks china! K-nuts on cam pulleys reduces rotating mass = less power lost..... hopefully Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Apr 1, 2021 21:20:34 GMT
decided that I'm going to use the abs sensor position in the mk2 front uprights to signal the Stack speedometer, naturally both front uprights have snapped bolts in the abs sensor securing positions.... weld a nut on bodge time  6 x m10 nuts to sacrifice, photo shows success on the first attempt  one down....  second upright, the offending bolt-stub.  fit nut over stub.  add weld to fill.....  tenderise with a mallet while cooling, theres some tecnical reason that I've forgotten  (something about minimising cracking & also shocks the threads?)  success! okey, used 3 nuts as the second stub was, well, stubborn!  I'd previously sandblasted the uprights but in a year they've rusted, so back in the cabinet for a quick blast & as I was at it I blasted the ecu / false-floor mount bracket (from the silver car but for the white car) BM W E30 hub next to Mx5 hub for comparison, E30 have 31mm id bearings and Mx5 have 28mm id brearings, I'm going to make an adapter sleeve to sit on the upright's stub-axle but have thought about swapping the inner races (if they're compatable?) as would save machining time.... also recieved the ST170-ecu loom and it's very usable, it's a complete engine loom with startermotor, alternator, oilpressure / coolant temperature tails as well as all usable engine sensors and also gear-position wiring. enough to run a 5 Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Apr 3, 2021 10:46:09 GMT
random boredom try a speedo in a Mazda dash cluster photo time...  it's just stuffed in the faceplates hole and the rear casing needs cutting to allow it to sit flush but it's in.... now makes the Elliot revcounter look odder & badly fitted as it's slightly smaller diameter  I've also discovered that the faceplate size will just about cover an A4 page, handy as CF & Carbon/kevlar panels are available in A4 sheet size so may make a 'cover' to mount the gauges onto... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Apr 4, 2021 16:16:35 GMT
had a day tidyin the yard & garden then a little fiddlin with little progress, did swap the wheels on the '90 Eunos.  when bought it had these 90's tsw dealer-option 5 spoke wheels, they are not to my taste....  so, in the name of science, tried a Revolution 6x13" wheel that clears the breaks (but don't have the correct nuts so couldn't lower to the floor...)  the Revolution now tried on the front (would need a small ~3mm-5mm spacer) and final fit of the Enkei (Triumph Acclaim?) alloys I bought lastyear - obviously no rush  all 4 Emkei's fitted, bit of a Monster-truck look but far better I like the Enkei's but love the 13" Revolutions so maybe I'll do some searching.... I've also used the warm weather to open doors & softtop to 'air' the car as I'ts been standing - also allows all the creepy-crawlies to escape more to follow re. Wilwood / Boxmount fitment & B6T pistons / conrods... Rich. |
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(something about minimising cracking & also shocks the threads?)
le sigh