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Post by Zed. on May 14, 2021 18:51:18 GMT
more spending...  found a new Mazda steel sump pan for 121 / 323. B6 engine on ebay so couldn't resist it, this will become the drysump pan although I already have a used pan this will be easier to modify as no oil contamination or damage (hopefully!)  also bought 2 x (pairs, Male & female) Glenair 19 way mil spec connectors for my knitting....  these are bulkhead / flange mounted & 1/4 turn 'quick release' so hopefully suit the innerwing looms / front lighting... from the advert... "1 x VG95234M 20-A48P (RS 713-3337, plug with pins, list price £72.89) 1 x VG95234A20A-48S (RS 713-3277, socket with pins, list price £35.63) 1 x 770-001S106 (RS 742-2390, heat shrink boot, list price £36.41)" as I've bought 2 'pairs' theres double of each. (& not at those prices!) AND....  some 'Sureseal' connector 'sockets' (with pins), I have some bulkhead / flange mount 'plugs' from an old Landrover Discovery and like these connectors, they're made from rubber and self-sealing as well as easy to use, maybe I won't use the 'millspec' types underbonnet  maybe use them in the car for dashboard etc? anyway, why overcomplicate anything?  Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on May 16, 2021 17:58:24 GMT
Bought another Stack oil temperature gauge  it was cheap  my 3rd... so, coolant, engine oil and now I've either spares or can have a gearbox or diff temperature reading (unless I buy a 4th then evrything will be monitored  ) also, was less than the cost of a sender alone ( theres a sender with the gauge!) must resist... on a serious note, my gauge collecting is purely scientific as these are good quality and calibrated so accurate readings and any info will be interesting (to me anyway!) Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on May 18, 2021 9:37:10 GMT
new (old stock Mazda) '323 steel sump pan has arrived, I'll modify this as the 'dry' sump pan as discussed previously mighty5s.com/post/48904/thread shiney black paint & labels....  will be attacked with an anglegrinder & weld so not going to stay that way....  at least its not rusted or warped like used sumps....   flywheel end... the steel sump can have a 'full' rubber gasket or just rubber sections under the crankshaft seal areas and mastic along the length, think this is the mastic type.... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on May 19, 2021 13:31:51 GMT
Glenair bulkhead connectors have arrived..  proper mil-spec loveliness  1/4 turn disconnect (in case of mantanance etc.?) and sealed.  possibly overkill for automotive use but neat answer to a fume / fluid resistant bulkhead connector and also at a sensible price  these have 19 pin oisitions whereas I'll be using ~8 on each side for lighting and a few others like horn, wipermotor and startermotor / alternator so plenty of space to add 'extras' if needed... now to make a pin-insertion tool.... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on May 21, 2021 19:37:12 GMT
eventually decided on oilfilter head type & position so celebrated by drilling some holes...  doesn't look that impressive realy  used Mazda's chassis-lip pressing for the mount position, seemed rude not to...  this positions the centre of the filter inline with the alternator belt.  plenty of room around it for plumbing and access. plumbing wise I'll probably use a straight connector from the engine and a 45* fitting onto the filterhead with the feed (from pump) using a 90* fitting and running accross the enginebay (between rad & engine) to another 45* fitting onto the pump. I'm undecided on what hose to use, I have stainless braided but theres also a Nomex / Kevlar covered hose available (non electrically conductive so safe arround the alternator?) but it's a little expensive  will mock-up tomorrow if the weather allows! Rich. |
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Post by dadbif on May 21, 2021 21:12:36 GMT
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Post by Zed. on May 21, 2021 21:27:37 GMT
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Post by dadbif on May 22, 2021 7:40:07 GMT
That’s the stuff, we used to use it at RR, so I reckoned if it was good enough for them...
Had it on both my remote filter and oil cooler.
The nipple on my remote filter housing was interchangeable, so I could choose between metric threaded filters or non metric. Useful, as the original XE filter was a “proper” thread.
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Post by Zed. on May 23, 2021 11:13:13 GMT
in my search for quality (cheap ) gauges I've tripped over another pair of Autometer's offerings (Autometer make Stack amongst other re-branded - like Ford Racing etc.) this pair are a 'vacuum/boost' gauge (not needed) and a 100psi fuel pressure gauge & sender. www.autometer.com/2-fuel-press-0-100-psi-w-o-peak-valley-fse-4431.htmlcomes with it's suitable pressure sender www.autometer.com/100-psi-pressure-transducer.html?bvstate=pg:2/ct:qand from Autometer's wiring details, has their 'pro-control' feature so can signal a relay to power / cut power from something like fuel pump if pressures drop www.autometer.com/pub/media/manual/2650-1331.pdfas with my re-purposing of an oil-temp gauge as coolant temp I'm considering using this fuel pressure gauge as engine oil pressure, mostly as it saves having a 'live' (hot?) oil-hose into the dash-cluster so less chance of leaks or worse if I find an 'oil' specific gauge in the future then the wiring will already exist so easy to swap over the visavle gauge & then have the option of monitoring fuel pressure so, I'll be re-wiring the cluster (again?) to add the electronic gauge in place of the Raetech mecanical type but this isn't that hard and hopefully the backlighting will match the Stack speedo & coolant (oil?) gages more complication added to the car but no actual progress Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on May 25, 2021 10:43:58 GMT
had the fuel (oil?) pressure gauge arrive today, it's correct and can easily be re-purposed so a win  un-shiney? the sensor's are 'not' cheap (~£100+!) so hopefully accurate  'all' the bits needed....  same wiring as the Stack gauges (made by same company) but has a conventional '501' bulb not the internal Led illumination of the Stack items... much happiness & time to rebuild / rewire the cluster... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on May 31, 2021 12:28:27 GMT
no progress but have been thinking.... yes, it's dangerous but anyway, doing some fiddlin on a rallycar and ended up reading the Escort Cosworth WRC parts manual and found the coolant piping diagram. interestingly they have a few Laminova coolers fitted. Engine & front diff coolers are plumbed into the main radiator hoses with gearbox and pas coolers in a seperate hose to the rad from the rear of the engine.  either this points to better plumbing / heat management or it was just the easiest for packing 4 coolers in the available space... this now confuses my thoughts of fitting the Laminova in my 5's heater system more reserch (& conflicting ideas) to come NEXT. also fiddlin with an early Landrover 1.6L engine, challanging as it's probably been standing for 70 years.... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on May 31, 2021 21:41:01 GMT
thinking & looking at the oiltank again, I've been sidetracked (realy?) but back on this (for now )  origonal idea was to make a new opening in the bulkhead for the tank's filler but now decided it will go in the heaters outside-air intake.  this i mocked-up with both parts of the tubular tank (to set the height) so the 'other' / lower tank will be sat to it's side but more central in the footwell.  visualising the tank's top & filler in the heater intake, might be able to see the tank's breather pipe stub under the bulkhead.  enginebay view. with the top / tubular section fitted aproximately here, the oil feed pipework from the engine / pump (via Laminova exchanger) will enter the bulkhead near the innerwing, neater than the position I was expecting previously. more fiddlin to follow. Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jun 1, 2021 19:06:23 GMT
as with my tanjental thinking, I cut the new sump today  new metal, no rust or oil contamination (fumes!)  clean base to work from  the 'saved' rim section, have (again) fitted the Mz5's 'windage-tray' as a guide but I'll not be using it in the finished pan.  the standard Mx5 windage-tray sits recessed into the engine's alloy sump, on the steel pan I'll be fabricating a similar but hopefully more efficient at oil ducting / directing towards the pickup troughs.     different views of my 'rough' cutting... as to the design I'll try to emulate...  I'll be copying the sump trough & tray design used in this (generic?) Ford drysump pan  the tray / ducting uses crankshaft rotation to 'sweep' oil into the pickup troughs...  I'll be fabricating a front & rear trough setup, need to finalise the front trough position and the sump's depth as theres a steering rack to consider.... more faff to follow. Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jun 4, 2021 11:09:36 GMT
played with dash cluster wiring (again)  re-loomed to add the pressure gauge in, heatschrink to the rescue  also added some black to the bezel of the revcounter, tried a permanant marker (first try) and it's mostly covered, few coats and the bodge will be complete. next, the warning / indicator lamp wiring.... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jun 4, 2021 22:29:35 GMT
bought a Spal fan to use in the trimmed Golf fan-shroud (on the Polo rad, on the Mazda)....  Spal Axial Fan, VA11-AP7/C-57A, 12v (Pull) 10.0" diameter, measure once.....  Lucky guess on the size!  looks promising...   fits in the shroud, not quite all the way in though...  but fills the hole  theres 4 mount 'lugs' that need trimming...  trimming done & it's in. now to make the mounts using the 6 bolting positions around the circumference.... Rich. |
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maybe use them in the car for dashboard etc?
)
le sigh