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Post by Zed. on May 8, 2021 20:48:39 GMT
back onto the dashboard gauges, I'd bought some Stack gauges as they were cheap (ebay) and one was for oil temperature, I'm especially interested in oil temp as the drysump system will be using a Laminova oil / coolant exchanger so have been interested in the difference with oil & coolant temperatures. to my mind, having another Stack gauge to read the coolant seems sensible so I looked for a sensibally priced gauge. ebay again & ~£100 saving for another Stack ST3359 oil temperature gauge (40-140*c) so now I'm able to compare readings with identical gauges using similar calibration with similar senders  so far I have. Stack speedometer (electronic). Stack oil & coolant temperature (using a pair of oil temp gauges). Stack voltmeter. (not something I was looking for but cheap and nice info to have). Stack time clock (again, not something I was looking for but cheap and handy to have). Elliot (Racers Hardware branded) 10K rpm + telltale tacometer. Racetech 0-100psi oil pressure gauge. now, fuel level is the only other reading I've interest in but a wideband readout could be of intrest if one was found at the right price (not the £300+ for a Stack gauge!  ) as to dash cluster, speedo, tacometer, fuel level, oil pressure & coolant temperature as per Mazda (but with aftermarket gauges) and for warning lamps I will use the standard Mazda central illuminated film so have indicators (L&R), headlamp mainbeam, alternator charge, hazard lights (may use the indicator lights for this?) brake warning (may repurporse to oil-warning?) and rear foglamp warning. ^^ not quite K.I.S.S  now back to drawing the loom map and knitting the wiring to suit.... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on May 10, 2021 11:17:44 GMT
started on the gauges...  excuse the pair of oil-temperature but economics dictate using one for coolant temperature - bit of a bodge but.... the temp gauges are rated at =/-1.5% accuracy but I doubt I will be able to see needle movements to that level so as a guide. my interest in oil temperature is purely due to using a Laminova oil / coolant exchanger and idle wondering about the effectiveness, having a pair of similar gauge / sender combinations that are also calibrated using the same test equipment will show fluid temperature differences & hopefully that the oil is not heating the coolant past what the radiator can cool  gauges are all 'standard' 2 1/4" diameter fittment and have identical wiring connector 10-pin plugs but populated to suit aplication (=12v power, -earth & illumination are all in a 'standard' position)  as example, the temperature gauge wiring.  the time clock & voltmeter's connector. this brings me to a possibility...  all the gauges have theit connector fully populated... the gauges are Stack's 'Professional' stepper-motor series, the higher level 'Pro-control' series use the same wiring connector plug / socket and have a signal output to feed an ecu or datalogger... I will power a gauge to check for an output (oneday ) I've started altering a Mazda dash-cluster faceplate to accept the gauges but am thinking of making a composite face as it might be easier (due to the standard plastic face design & warning-lamp positions). carbon fiber pannels in A4 size are cheap enough & I can squeeze a faceplate from an A4 sheet diagonally.... gauge wiring is simple with common +12v live, earth & illumination for all, I'm thinking of fitting the time-clock & voltmeter in the toombstone's 'eyeball' vents (will not be connected to the heater system) and am torn between fitting the oil temp gauge in the 'eyeball' between gague cluster & drivers door ALTHOUGH that is rollcage dependant as there might be a front leg in the way too much planning & not enough building......  Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on May 10, 2021 18:14:48 GMT
back to the speedo's vss / abs sensor... I didn't have any front abs 'rings' on the hubs so bought a used (ebay) hub to get one, seems common practace to swap the 'rings' from hub-hub as its cheaper than buying abs hubs so I'll do this...  general arangement...  hub stand-off.  the 'air-gap' between sensor & relucter-ring. having an abs hub / ring is handy as I can now compare to the BMW E30 front hub / ring pair, luckily it seems to be the same toothcount & diameter (overlaid & by eye) so this is a future hub replacement with the speedo still getting it's vss. more plotting to follow... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on May 10, 2021 22:09:14 GMT
more faff....  starting to squeeze the gauges into the (slightly small) space that is a standard Mazda cluster facia.  can't see this bodge in the previous photo  I'm using this cluster as a ginea-pig (crash-test dummy?) so rough-cut and messy...  the speedo is clamped to the facia, other gauges look like they'll be bolted to the cluster carcass... I'm debating as to what warning-lamps to use, oem will fit but have to be wired seperately as will not be using the film / circuit so am tempted to use small Led's... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on May 11, 2021 11:45:51 GMT
more butchery butchered...  Oilpressure gauge fitted.  looking better (but not perfect due to space & gauge diameters)  evidence of butchery - or as I like to think, lightening the car think I'll bond the gage-bezels to the rear of the cluster facia and also make rear-mount straps. still undecided if I will be refitting the clear 'screen' over the cluster, depends if I retain the Mazda fuel gauge or replace with aftermarket although I could fit a small perspec cover over the single? Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on May 11, 2021 16:51:04 GMT
random boredom photo time....  powered the speedo & the illumination for speedo & temperature gauge, might have to sort a resistance as Led's can be bright... planning / routing cluster wiring now, will run common +12v live / earth & illumination as a 'ringmain' accross the cluster as opposed to like a 'spider' from a central source, trying to decide on suitable connector(s) to join loom & cluster - think theres 15 wires in total Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on May 12, 2021 8:30:35 GMT
![]()  'tested' the illumination lastnight.... Houston theres a problem think I'll need to do something sooner than later.  scruffy wiring v1. naturally, when running wires through heatschrink I forgot to feed a few.... several times.... will de-pin the temp gague to add some later. will extend the revcounter's (red) power cable as that was just to test. will run a seperate harness for the warning lamps as it allows ease of knitting and lso to change bulbs. more (messy) faffin to follow. Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on May 12, 2021 12:42:44 GMT
off on a tangent again (ish) eventually had delivery of some brake parts ordered some 90* AN3 bulkhead fittings on 1/5/21 & eventually arrived today  anyway, can plumb the pedalbox cylinders now.  shown with Aeroquip 'ends' from my collection... will fit 2 below the clutch master cylinder to feed the front / passanger side and rear brake lines through the bulkhead (will have another on the passanger side between heaterpipe holes and the innerwing for that 'end') also, have ordered wiring connectors for the abs sensor (speedo) and crankshaft senor wiring.... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on May 12, 2021 20:29:40 GMT
drilled a hole & enlarged another in the bulkhead, this meant the brakepipe fittings can be installed & plumbing can continue..  first 'test' fit of the, well, fittings  first thoughts were to route the front / passanger & rear flexi's under the clutch master cylinder....  but then I decided the rear flex can run over the clutch cylinders spacer & hopefully be neater?  similar image but shows the clutch flex route.  trial with a 20* banjo to see if it aligns neatly...  from above with the inlet fitted.  thinking about cable-tie securing the front / passanger flex to the rear cylinder...  then saw sense & test-fitted a 'pee' clip   inside the car, will use a 90* hose-end for the front flex as it crosses the bulkhead & tunnel, probably a straight on the rear flex & let the pipe bend to suit the fixings (when I decide whats where with the heater)  another view, there is clearance for flexi-hose & fittings but it'll be fun to access with the heater & dashboard in the car! subject of heater.... looking at the heaterbox & it's mounting on the tunnel, still undecided on blower-fan in front or behind the matrix, if in front then it nearly replicates the heaterboxes face position relative to the demist ducting in the plastic dashboard cover so easy ish to plumb ducting, I'm also thinking of a flap system to close off the footwell so selectable only for demist . have a 'bypass' valve to isolate the heater from engine coolant (allows flow to continue through the Laminova) but this is a complication for the plumbing.... more thinking... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on May 12, 2021 21:07:35 GMT
heatertime. the heater I've got is a rear unit from a modern 'black cab' and fits perfectly on the transmission-tunnel between dashboard frame & bulkhead. a self-contained heater matrix / blower-fan unit. wired for 3 speeds with a resistor to drop voltage.  photo shows it 'face-down'.  blower removed, can see the missmatch of airflow to matrix?  being the great thinker (& lunatic that has to over complicate evrything ) thought about a pair of blower-fans...  more matrix coverage & more airflow? also option of 1 or both fans running?  with both blowers mounted it's not realy any bigger & still within it's mount-feet. now, is this over-complicating things? YES is it needed? UNKNOWN. option for the future.... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on May 13, 2021 18:00:02 GMT
made / shortened hoses to connect mastercylinders to the bulkhead fittings to assess routing & clearances.  test-fitted...  bulkhead end.  from above, probably not visable once engine wiring & fuel pipework are in place....  I'm happy with the routing but might shorten the front flex ~10mm to allow its 'drop' to be vertical also, I've odered a few more fittings, amongst which are a few 'straight' banjo-fittings to replace the one on the rear cylinder as it will allow for a straighter hose run to the bulkhead fitting... as I was ordering from RallyDesign, I added 8 off m12 (x1.5mm pitch) conversion wheelstuds @ 70p each, these are to allow playing with the BMW E30 front hub conversion.... subject of which.....  rough hight measurement of the E30 hub (for records).  Mazda hub for comparison...  E30 hub spiggot hight.  Mazda hub spiggot hight.  and, for records, Mk2 Escort RS type extended studs in Mazda hub. more tanjental waffle to follow... Rich |
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Post by Zed. on May 13, 2021 21:13:59 GMT
I wasn't happy with the routing of the rear flex over the clutch cylinder, kept thinking it should go below so I drilled another hole lower.  this works well as the previous 'top' hole can be used for the oilpressure gauge flex to pass through the bulkhead (another bulkhead fitting - no gromet here!)  plenty of room and away from the clutch pedal setup. (test hoses to the rescue for photographic purposes!)  engine side it looks better, test-fitted a straight bulkhead fitting & will probably use a 90* end on the hose to engine (or will it go to the oilfilter head?)  I didn't make these hoses long enough to follow the cylinder then turn 90* and cross the bulkhead deliberately as wanted to minimise any possible 'sawing' effects of the braid due to vibrations (there will be vibrations even with solidly mounted components)  the underside view, not something that'll be on show! I'm going to tighten the bulkhead fittings and level them as they're on the squiff!  worse photo better view?  what'll be on show...  temporary 'Pee' clips, will try to 'find' a matched pair  view from the headlight retract motor. so, now I'm moving into plumbing then it's time to decide where the 'hydraulic handbrake will live so it can be integrated into the car & pipework, something I'm dreading as it's so easy to 'fill' a cockpit of a small car! an Escort or similar is easy as theres obvious places but cars like the 5 where you sit low / next to the transmission-tunnel it's more of a challange... Rich. |
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Post by dadbif on May 14, 2021 7:25:52 GMT
Neat job!
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Post by Zed. on May 14, 2021 9:44:11 GMT
thankyou, but the more I look at it, the more faults I find I'm being picky but...... might redo again (hose is ~£6/m and pipe-olives are 30p each...) and I've ~6m of hose and 'some spare fittings / bits...) Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on May 14, 2021 10:33:42 GMT
more bits but no progress....  upside-down photo of the Auto-click order, £27 in 4 little bags (cheaper than coke I suppose...)  2pin correct for abs & (NB) gearbox vss sensors.  3pin correct for the crankshaft sensor. I've bought extras (male & female) as having the ability to fit 'alien' senders to existing wiring makes future-proofing sense & was in the same order so only one p&p payment Rich. |
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le sigh