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Post by atlex on Apr 27, 2021 9:57:37 GMT
that casting webbing left on 2&3 lol.. lol....
instant gains to be had! amirite ?
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Post by Zed. on Apr 27, 2021 11:16:19 GMT
that casting webbing left on 2&3 lol.. lol.... instant gains to be had! amirite ? a moot point though as I've a heavily modified & re-shaped head in the workshop..... but yes, it's not good for flow  Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Apr 27, 2021 17:37:20 GMT
removed the battery lead & other wiring that runs along the ppf, now it's empty underbonnet & I can 'map' the spaghetti properly (going to be ruthless & strip to bare bones) fuel lines next....  space to work around... as I'm dropping down the drysump rabbithole, will be using a remote oilfilter housing, ease of access and also ease of plumbing as it'll be in the pipework accross the enginebay. I've a few remote-filter housings to choose and these are the designs (both Mocal made)  first choice is this position.  plenty of room for hoses & not in the way of anything.  should be plenty of clearance around the alternator, maybe I'll fit some rubber around the hose as added electrical protection as I have Aeroquip's '100series' stainless-braided hose in -10 for pressure side.  another position (& showing another design of filter housing) but this looks like it'll be a bit messy to plumb?  I'm not a fan of hoses reaching up & then down over the top of the chassis, doesn't look neat & isn't nessessary?  another view, plenty of room... more faffin to follow. Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Apr 27, 2021 20:40:31 GMT
 the main battery cable & ppf wiring with the underbonnet fusebox, quite a long 'squid'... a few more photo's about the oilfilter head.  these are the 'other' Mocal type that has the option of feed / outlet from both sides & has a longer 'stand-off' so can work with larger diameter filters.  a large oilfilter (as used on Landrovers) as example.  fits in without interfering with the arb.  still plenty of clearance from the alternator.  if I use this filterhead I have the option of running oilpressure gauge take-off from one of the blanking-plugs, something that appeals to me as I'm not a fan of a braided hose from the origonal port in the cylinderblock as I'm going to use braided hose but it's close to the main power feed on the startermotor - maybe I'm being overcautious?  comparison of both types of filterhead.  I'm not a fan of the shiney finish! more thoughts re. radiators to follow.... Rich. |
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Post by dadbif on Apr 27, 2021 21:14:30 GMT
Hanging version looks more elegant, and neater for addition senders.
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Post by Zed. on Apr 27, 2021 21:42:45 GMT
more waffle...  I'm using a VW Polo radiator, its a crossflow & twin-pass design so efficient (more efficient than the 'normal' offerings?) and also smaller in hight & width, the size works out as an added bonus as I can repuropse the gap at the side to duct cold air to the inlet & throttlebodies.  as seen here...  again, theres lots of room between engine & radiator.  also, I've used a 1.8 mx5 thermostat housing and shortened B4 Passat rad hose, lines up perfectly.  both main rad hoses are on the exhaust side of the engine, also theres a 'bleed' hose that runs to the expansion-tank (not shown).  the B4 Passat rad hose looks almost like it was made for the car!  inlet side. as to cooling fans, I'm going to try a single fan on a modified Mk2 Golf fan shroud.  not so much room now  this biases the fan on the exhaust side.  but this clashes with the top hose / thermostat housing, not an issue as I'm intending to mount a Spal or Kenlowe fan inside the duct & shorten it by ~1" or so.  as this shroud is from a mk2 Golf it's for a wider rad...  so I'll cut & weld to fit.  something I intend to keep is the 'flaps', these allow the fan to draw through the whole rad when stationary but allow airflow when moving - a simple but effective design   guesstimated measurements of the shortening is about 3 1/2".  but this causes a problem with the 'flaps' think I might investigate fitting them with the 'hinge' vertically otherwise it's easy to re-position & create an oriface for airflow... more to follow... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Apr 28, 2021 9:37:07 GMT
been thinking.... the Denso / Subaru alternator is designed around an 8mm pivot bolt and the Mazda engine uses a 10mm pivot bolt, my intention was to machine a thinwall steel sleeve to fit the engine but had a thought about 'DU' bushes - somethig I have in stock  for example (also cheap)  www.bearingshopuk.co.uk/gb0812dx-glacier-bush/#product_tabs_description_tabbed'DU' bushes are thinwall steel sleeves with a PTFE liner, need no lubrication and quite resilliant so a perfect solution? ('DU' are (& have been for ~50 years) used in competition suspension strut units like Bilstein) *only one potential issue*... the hole in the engine (cylinderblock & oilpump /front cover) is probably worn oversize  guess I'm going diggin in the workshop.... Rich. |
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Post by howardb66 on Apr 28, 2021 13:04:08 GMT
Remote oil filters are a good thing & they solve access issues straight away. Plus you can do take offs for oil coolers etc...
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Post by dickie on Apr 28, 2021 20:04:02 GMT
I am loving your Alternator Belt Excellent Solution.
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Post by Zed. on Apr 28, 2021 21:14:09 GMT
 sectioned & narrowed the shroud earlier.  I'd guessed 3 1/2"...  I was 1/4" short with the guess!  somehow I'd cut reasonablly close & straight...  test-tacked togther.  trial fit on rad.  ends / sides line up but the middle needs persuasion....  proof of origins...  stitched togther.  even lines up with the boltholes.  the lower edge.  trying different 'flap' orientation.  sandblasted, looking better. also, I'm too lazy to grind & sand the welds...  even the inside.  removed the fan mount.  'flap' mounts in new position.  wheelsilver aerosol to the rescue.  probably react or run.....  not my finest weld (it's the top so visable  ), I'm brave...  'flaps' in position.  ready to fit?  final fit on rad.  side view of the 'flaps' in their operating position, when the cars stationary they will be in the 'closed' position (also with the fan running) but 'open' when the cars moving to allow airflow.  for records, the rad's details.  fitted in the car.  starting to look like it should be there.  rad hose positions & self-contained 3 wire thermoswitch for the fan. the frame needs trimming to clear the smallbore 'bleed' pipe (stub visable with red cap). top radiator mounts are a 'hook' into slots on the end-caps. I'm going to use another top hose and trimm it longer this allows the rad to sit against the support frame. as to lower hose, I like the shape of the one in the photos, might try to find one thats not as wide in the dogleg but habing it high helps with the other plumbing (to the expansion-tank) and as I'm possibly making a new waterpump 'inlet' this is not a problem. plenty more to follow..... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Apr 29, 2021 18:01:54 GMT
found the 'missing' photos....  shows the 'lower' rad hose in relation to the waterpump inlet.  the rad 'bleed' stub & the modified origonal mx5 rad support.  that needs modifying some more for the bleed-pipe to clear...  I decided to try the 'short' trumpets while looking into an airbox...  bit shorter... ![]()  view to the butterflies....  also trimmed a dash cluster to fit the Stack speedo....  by 'trimmed I mean 'Butcher' Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on May 1, 2021 17:36:34 GMT
 sandblasted a diff case (pigshead)  much yuck....  and underseal....  looks better now.  how long before it rusts?  subject of rust, it always suprises me how much Japaneese steel can rot suppose I'll need to search for that 5.1:1 ratio now... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on May 3, 2021 18:36:38 GMT
no actual progress but have bought a few important components firstly, a front drivers side abs sensor, found on ebay a genuine Mazda sender (NC14-43-70X)  this will give the vss pulse to trigger the Stack electronic speedometer and not be affected by wheelspin unlike a gearbox derrived vss. this sensor is a 2 wire type so easy speedometer wiring as a 'through-to-earth' circuit. secondly, a crankshaft sensor to run the 36/1 trigger-wheel, again found on ebay a genuine Mazda item (BP4W-18-221B)  this will fit the standard engine oilpump / front cover and as the trigger-wheel is from a 1999-2001 Mazda Protege it's positioned perfectly for the required air-gap. I specifically wanted genuine as theres a hope of better quality & hopefully reliability? Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on May 5, 2021 8:45:22 GMT
 had parts delivered this morning, were ordered yesterday so quick postage  Genuine crank sensor (hopefully? no markings on sensor!)  the front abs sensor, this will hopefully supply the vss to trigger the Stack speedometer, not needed straight away but allows progress on other mods & can mesure offset to decide on possible use of BMW E30 hubs & if their reluctor-rings will line up with the Mazda sensor position...  and this is the dimension I want to see.... lots of faff but hopefully worth it in the end.... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on May 5, 2021 15:46:09 GMT
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), I'm brave...
le sigh