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Post by niklas on Aug 15, 2021 17:09:05 GMT
That is really nice!
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Post by moclan on Aug 16, 2021 6:47:34 GMT
Remind me the reason for the E30 hubs?
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Post by Zed. on Aug 16, 2021 9:02:00 GMT
Remind me the reason for the E30 hubs? erm.... cheaper than Mazda items? stronger design? need new front hubs / bearings for the car.... I cannot stop fiddling? because? probably more but the conversion will cost me about the same if not less than buying oem type, also extended studs are much cheaper for the BMW hubs and easily replaced as screw-in (compared to ARP's Mx5 studs espcially!) and it's always interesting to adapt 'foreign' parts  one downside is added weight but it's minimal and I dought the extra unsprung or rotational mass will be noticed over the bigger brakes  Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Aug 17, 2021 9:46:15 GMT
bit more wiring knitted..  started adding AMP plugs & sockets for the temperature sensors, will make suitable extention looms for the car's fittment.  started playing with the time-clock & voltmeter fitment, I've fitted the gauges in emptied heater-vents but need to sort a method of holding the vent-ring into the toumbstone - probably self-tapping screws to allow removal as a unit but am thinking of glue.  heatschrink the sub-looms togther ready to splice into the oil temp gauge and then join to the car's loom.  Stack (Autometer) use red for +12, black for earth and white for illumination. next to decide on the radio-infill panel before fitting the temp-gauge & rotary switch so I can connect the gauges and finalise connection to the car's power & illumination, ideally I will have the panel removable as will have the e-pas controller & relays mounted on the tunnel. Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Aug 17, 2021 21:20:38 GMT
spliced the temp gague wiring with the voltmeter & time clock to create the sub-loom...  might add a spur for fuure addition of a wideband 02 but thats not happening unless I win the lottery   loom has to run down the side of the toumbstone to miss the heater control.  really need to sort a resistor to dim the illumination, theres a unit available fron Stack but it's £40 so I'll look into making something - another project... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Aug 18, 2021 13:11:57 GMT
 eventually ordered an M22 blanking plug...  'O' ring sealed so hopefully good for the task of....  keeping spiders out of the engine as I'm only using one port in the oilfilter mount due to the remote oilfilter & the drysump having an external oilpump.  again tried a 45degree hose-fitting but it's not a great routing so will bite the bullet & get straight hose-ends... lots of little things & interactions to consider & I doubt I've thought of maybe 1/2 of them.... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Aug 30, 2021 20:56:47 GMT
had a play with the cars main wiring loom today, been trying to find time to do this for ages and now it's started...  the main / front loom, I've removed the ecu / engine spaghetti but theres more trimming to be done and then tidying Mazda's random splices and excess wire lengths (& rediculous fusebox / relay placement  )  the engine's ecu spaghetti  I'll be using a standalone ecu so will have a new engine loom so removing ~30 year old copper wires that may be damaged or higher resistance is a good thing (also have more functions  ) I've stripped a similar loom lastyear but it was different and the dashboard loom would not fit as there were different plugs on the join, this was a pain as it was many hours work but now I am pre-armed with an understanding of their odd design... more fiddlin to follow... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Sept 1, 2021 12:45:05 GMT
I've been thinking more about the wiring, Mazda really went overcomplicated with this as theres relays and splices on the passanger innerwing / bulkhead area that could have been near the fusebox (fuseboxes?) or mounted centrally (as I'm intending ) reading the available Mx5 wiring diagrams (as cannot find the Eunos Roadster specific items - theres subtle differences & wire colours ) is fun, I'm chasing wire-paths and diagrams as it prevents removing something that might be usefull later also, they went a little overprotective with fuses (27 posible positions?) - I'm condensing down to 10 blade type and a single heavy trip/resettable type for the Epas system feed. my fuse list (so far!) Headlights. 30A blade. Headlight retractor. 30A blade. Gauges / Warning lamps / Indicators 10A blade. Tail lights. 15A blade. Hazard warning lights. 15A blade. Wipers / washers. 20A blade. Heater (demist & aux cooling). 30A blade. Cooling fan. 15A blade. Ignition / Alternator. 30A blade. Fuel pump. 10A blade. Epas. 60A trip / resettable? as to fusebox, think I'll fit one of these 10 way with Led telltale... www.12voltplanet.co.uk/waterproof-panel-mounted-standard-blade-fuse-box-with-leds-10-way.htmlalso I'll be fitting a remote solenoid in the battery to startermotor power cable, this allows isolating the main power feed from shorting underbonnet. Startermotor activation will be triggered in the cockpit (mounted on top of gearbox tunnel probably?) with the relay feeding poser to the startermotor - this runs the startermotor and a simple bridging wire from the startermotor's power connection and triggers it's inbuilt solenoid for the bindex to engage with the flywheel's ringgear.... ^ sounds more complicated when I describe but is simple in operation & to connect8-) probably a relay like this.... www.12voltplanet.co.uk/12v-200a-heavy-duty-relay.htmlbut I have several 'old' type Lucas solenoid's in the workshop & sheds.... more spending again(rofl) Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Sept 9, 2021 9:59:01 GMT
Wiring....  theres 2 'main' /front looms both from '91 Eunos's & both slightly different why did I..... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Sept 15, 2021 18:56:50 GMT
fusebox ordered from 12voltplanet (& delivered), first order from them and good service - also it's better than I was expecting  AN10 fittings ordered from Speedflow (& delivered) for oilfilter to engine ordered & delivered...  before...  out of packets and the oilpressure sensor tried in the adaptor.  tried on the engine and oilfilter mount, looks like a better pipe-run than previous fittings...  closer view, the oilpressure sensor is horizontal in this photo, is usable like this but a little close to the alternator for my liking.  sender vertical and pointing down. possible oilfilter clearance issues??  sender vertical and pointing up. possible throttlebody / fuel pipework issues?? will investigate more..... Rich. |
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Post by dadbif on Sept 15, 2021 21:22:16 GMT
Down is best, no crap going into your connectors and it is more elegant.
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Post by Zed. on Sept 15, 2021 21:34:46 GMT
Down is best, no crap going into your connectors and it is more elegant. sorta what I was thinking, it's also protected (HA! ) by the chassis-rail... also, the connector is sealed so shouldn't be an issue Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Sept 24, 2021 19:20:52 GMT
had a half hour with the silver car and an anglegrinder...  trimmed some wieght off...  still rough....  rough idea as to the oil scavange pipe route from tank through bulkhead to the pump.  as the piperoute is near the exhaust manifold, I've a few sections of heatshielding tube so tried some on the -12 hose & happily it fits more thinking & measuring to follow.... subject of measuring, I've had a bad idea about a certain Vauxhall 20XE engine and it's dimensions compared to the Mazda engine  not that much different ( OK it's ~2" longer but.....) MUST RESIST NEXT. Rich. |
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Post by dadbif on Sept 24, 2021 21:14:05 GMT
C20Xe, standard cams, Jenvey TB’s gave me 210bhp in my Westfield.
You know you want to…
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Post by Zed. on Sept 24, 2021 21:27:57 GMT
C20Xe, standard cams, Jenvey TB’s gave me 210bhp in my Westfield. You know you want to… hummmmmmmm... cams, headwork, Omega pistons etc. and drysumped. should be terrifying Rich. |
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le sigh