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Post by Zed. on Jul 23, 2021 11:23:27 GMT
Driving the MK1 2hrs back from events was pretty wearing, even the sound of ITBs got irritating on the motorway. It was flipping loud though 😂 ffs. lost the tirade I'd written  anyway.... you've never endured a straight-cut gearbox then?  AND low gearing  music for a short while then a cacophony  Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jul 23, 2021 20:49:11 GMT
hasd 5 mins earlier, decided to try the 323 turbo's heater hard-pipe on the 5...  this is purely for shitz&giggles...  this shows the 'extra' connections used in the origonal B6t configuration...  so, from the end near the clutch Master-cylinder... heater feed (16mm hose) the front of inlet manifold (between 1&2 cylinder ports, 8mm hose) the thermostat bypass (above bellhousing, so called the 'devil-plug' on Mx5's! 8mm hose) and turbo coolant feed rear of exhaust manifold area, 8mm hose) I'll be having a slightly different plumbing arangement to this OR a standard Mx5 as I'll be running the heater return from the heater through the Laminova oilcooler then to the lower rad hose along the innerwing but might run the 323 style inlet manifold front bypass and heater feed with rear thermostat and it's heater return bypass hose... obviously this means a ghetto-design 'top' radiator pipe arangement that would also run across the passanger innerwing - probably in metal pipe with rubber hose connections more thinking to follow.... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jul 24, 2021 18:39:08 GMT
had a random thought earlier, I've been planning & considering the oil pipework but not actually looked at the connection between the oilfilter head and the engine...  fitted the Setrab oilfilter take-off plate to the engine, only AN10 pipe nipple fitted into the 'in' as I'll be sorting a plug for the 'out'.  I had thought of 45degree hose fittings but thisisn't giving a neat & compliant hose run.  test-fit with an old hose.  decided on straight fittings as this allows a nicer hose run. maybe I shouldn't have concentrated so much on the exhaust side for the oilpump, Laminova and oil reservoir plumbing  now, typically, I have no straight AN10 hose fittings so more on the shopping list... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jul 24, 2021 18:57:37 GMT
must add, the oilfilter thread on the engine is M20.
Rich.
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Post by Zed. on Jul 27, 2021 1:21:42 GMT
a while ago I captured a pair of 'new-looking' Fidanza 94018 adjustable cam pulleys on ebay and noticed they were slightly unfinished as the centres didn't seem to be deburred with some sharp edges and corners that could cause stresses and possibly cracking  some google-fu reveals some reports of these pulleys cracking & looks to be the sharp corner where the drilled-lightening hole meets the rear face & 'spiggot-journal'  so, while watching the olympic surfing I enjoyed some quality time with a needle-file & the pulleys   both pulleys, I've no idea why they have different diameter holes in the centres... lower / smaller hole cenre is reversed in this photo.  verry different diameter holes!  this is where I'm concerned about, sharp edges & corners can be the start of cracking & as these pulleys are not cheap....  before fettling.  after deburring.  the smaller holes also needed fettling.  deburred, must be lighter now! so, hopefully safer and no cracks in the future... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jul 28, 2021 14:17:54 GMT
adding this photo as it shows the straight inlet tract and the hight of the exhaust manifold.  I'll be extending the inlet tract ~1/2" by making a new set of longer adapter-stubs. more thinking & drawing ongoing... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jul 31, 2021 21:07:42 GMT
another tangent again, well returning to.....
dash cluster wiring..
the cluster will contain 5 gauges and 7 warning lamps.
gauges.
Coolant. (5 wires)
Speedometer. (5 wires)
Oil pressure. (5 wires +2 for illumination)
Revcounter. (4 wires)
Fuel. (3 wires)
warning lamps.
Indicaor left.
Indicator right.
Headlamp main-beam.
Hazard warning.
Ignition / charge.
Oil pressure.
Foglight.
I've been looking into a wiring connector to allow easy cluster removal and need ~20 positions including earth.
Coolant temp gauge. (Stack)
+12v Live Red.
-12v Earth Black.
+12v illumination Red.
Signal out Grey.
Signal in Purple.
Speedometer. (Stack)
+12v Live Red.
-12v Earth Black.
+12v illumination Red.
Signal in Black/Yellow
Signal out *Undecided*
Oil pressure. (Autometer)
+12v Live Red.
-12v Earth Black.
+12v illumination Red.
Sensor Grey.
Sensor Purple.
Sensor Black.
+12v illumination White.
-12v illumination Black.
Revcounter. (Elliot)
+12v Live Red.
-12v Earth. Black.
Signal / Trigger Green.
Telltale -12v earth Blue.
Fuel level. (standard Mazda)
+12v Live Red.
-12v Earth Black.
Signal Blue/Yellow. (may change to match Mazda's loom colours - when I check their colours!)
this gives a list as...
1. Red (live)
2. Black (Earth)
3. White (illumination)
4. Grey (Coolant)
5. Purple (Coolant)
6. Grey (Oil pressure)
7. Purple (Oil pressure)
8.Black (Oil pressure)
9.Black/Yellow (Speedometer)
10. *Undecided* (Speedometer)
11. Green (Revcounter Signal / trigger)
12. Blue (Revcounter 'Telltale')
13. Blue/Yellow (Fuel sender)
Plus
warning lamps. (colours undecided as yet, will try to use oem Mazda colours)
14. Indicaor left.
15. Indicator right.
16. Headlamp main-beam.
17. Hazard warning.
18. Ignition / charge.
19. Oil pressure.
20. Foglight.
now to find a nice connector...
also, theres an output from the Speedometer, this is usefull for many reasons - mostly to 'future-proof' the wiring but have the potential for cruise control, vehicle-speed related boost control if I decide on turbo (would be matched with gear position input also) or even a 'Trip-meter' for accurate tulip navigation.
more to follow...
Rich.
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Post by Zed. on Aug 1, 2021 18:39:58 GMT
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Post by batou on Aug 2, 2021 10:57:18 GMT
I guess coolant temp/oil pressure is probably enough to know, but always found oil temp is a nice to have and stops me from getting a heavy right foot too soon and knowing when to chill on a hot day/track, plus the early oil pressure gauge is functional enough no?
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Post by Zed. on Aug 2, 2021 11:39:44 GMT
I guess coolant temp/oil pressure is probably enough to know, but always found oil temp is a nice to have and stops me from getting a heavy right foot too soon and knowing when to chill on a hot day/track, plus the early oil pressure gauge is functional enough no? erm, I'm going to run a single Stack oil-temperature gauge with a selector-switch and engine / transmission / diff oil sensors, mounted in the tombstone, more than anything as I managed to find cheap gauges so can monitor temps (only realy interested in the engine oil as trying a drysump setup & Laminova oil / coolent heat exchanger so general interest)  mighty5s.com/post/48647/thread mighty5s.com/post/49125/threadluckily they were all at a suitable price BUT I've just added up how much & it wasn't funny  as to the early / standard Mazda oil pressure gauge, it's good for a guide but not as accurate & calibrated as a modern item, also ~30 year old senders can get damaged. I was going to ue a Racetech capillary (real) gauge but tripped ofver a sensiblly priced Autoeter item (actually fuel pressure but same gague & sender used for oil & fuel, also Autometer own the Stack brand so made in same factory....) Rich. |
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Post by batou on Aug 2, 2021 13:32:30 GMT
I guess coolant temp/oil pressure is probably enough to know, but always found oil temp is a nice to have and stops me from getting a heavy right foot too soon and knowing when to chill on a hot day/track, plus the early oil pressure gauge is functional enough no? erm, I'm going to run a single Stack oil-temperature gauge with a selector-switch and engine / transmission / diff oil sensors, mounted in the tombstone, more than anything as I managed to find cheap gauges so can monitor temps (only realy interested in the engine oil as trying a drysump setup & Laminova oil / coolent heat exchanger so general interest) mighty5s.com/post/49125/threadluckily they were all at a suitable price BUT I've just added up how much & it wasn't funny as to the early / standard Mazda oil pressure gauge, it's good for a guide but not as accurate & calibrated as a modern item, also ~30 year old senders can get damaged. I was going to ue a Racetech capillary (real) gauge but tripped ofver a sensiblly priced Autoeter item (actually fuel pressure but same gague & sender used for oil & fuel, also Autometer own the Stack brand so made in same factory....) Rich. Ahh, missed that, although I feel like we may have had this discussion already, sorry if I'm repeating myself, my brain is abit toasted today so carry on  . Love Stack gauges  |
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Post by Zed. on Aug 11, 2021 19:50:47 GMT
no progress worth mentioning really, been caught up with other projects & of them I have many  had 5 mins spare earlier so continued the quest for removable rear lower wishbone to upright bolts in spare uprights I'm prepping for the '90 Eunos.  I'd previously cut the old rusted wishbones from the upright, the bolts are commonly frozen in place and these were no exception...  had these in the sandblaster to hopefully remove the corrosion from the exposed bolt.  now they're soaking in Worth's finest 'rusty penetrant' spray and will have a few days worth of squirting before a session in the hydraulic press & 10 tons of persuasion  done a little more with the dashboard wiring, re-thought some of it & now trying to draw another 'map' to help with planning, can see why I'm not an electrician  Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Aug 12, 2021 12:14:34 GMT
the switches for oil temperature gauge & multiple sender-sources arrived today, can now start with the toumbstone's gauge fittment & sub-loom...  these are hopefully going to allow power-feed interruption when selecting different senders so the Stack stepper-motor gauge resets / calibrates for each reading (engine oil, gearbox oil & differential oil) switches were cheap, £1.19 +vat each and the 'knobs' were 20p so it was nearly cheaper to buy 1 of each to get free postage (& spares to destroy in testing )  like so. and yes, the Floor-God had a sacrifice of one ballbearing so this is now spare parts...... these also have an adjustable stop-pin so can be set to only turn tio the 3 positions I'll be using Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Aug 13, 2021 21:29:38 GMT
had 5 mins soldering (or 5 hours thinking!) to make a 'test' switch & sensor combo.  sorta works  3 sensors to common output and 'shorting' power between each position so the gauge re-calibrates before reading looking at running an LED for each sender to denote it's origin (engine / gearbox or diff oil) but that involves finding my box of LED's and then getting around to soldering tails before adding to the switch. also.... had 5 mins so tried a BMW E30 front hub on the Mazda front upright...  E30 hub is the new / shiney one, I've added screw-in conversion studs as these run with wheel bolts. standard ABS Mx5 mk2 hub shown for comparison.  theres a minor offset issue needing addressing, one of the modifications needed to fit these onto a Mazda upright...  Mazda hub face looks to be 63.5mm from the caliper mount face on the upright.  BMW hub face looks to be 51mm from the caliper mount face on the upright, I'm going to machine some spacers to position the disc, I'll measure more accurately with a vernier hight gauge one day more thinking Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Aug 15, 2021 14:24:31 GMT
 overall view of the mess....  suspect soldering!   next is to find my box of LED's to have visual indicators of the source sender - probably different colours for each sensor? did a thing... actually uploaded a vid on youtube this is the 'working' switch (mk2) this has 'dead' positions between each sensor to allow the gauge to reset & recalibrate Rich. |
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le sigh
Jul 15, 2023 20:03:52 GMT
le sigh
Jul 15, 2023 20:03:52 GMT