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Post by Zed. on Jul 13, 2021 19:52:32 GMT
bouncing around again, to illustrate the 323 turbo's coolant system differences I photographed the lower manifold. I will not be using this part bot copying the plumbing idea.  engine side same as Mx5.  outside has pair of coolant pipe-stubs heater (rear) and bypass (front) and although they look to use the ports in the manifold face they are also joined togther in the manifold.  ecu coolant sensor by heater pipe-stub.  the 'upper' manifold plenium mounts here, that carries the throttlebody. now back to the passanger innerwing / bulkhead chassis-gusset delete.  'chain-drilled' then split with a chisel, will trim to size with a tinsnips for a straighter edge.  closer view, can see the void had filled with rusty coolant from a previously leaking heater pipe so the seamsealer and gromets didn't seal.  I'd wiped the stain with my finger & revealed sorta-silver so not actually rusty - happy to know theres a chance for other 'hidden' voids....  looking in can seethe end of the chassis - not connected to the bulkhead!  better view, can now easily inspect the chassis  will cut more off tomorrow probably more use of the spotweld-drill and a hacksaw blade to minimise noise (evening fiddlin) Rich. |
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Post by batou on Jul 13, 2021 20:37:48 GMT
Man I'm getting PTSD just looking at that, images of bloody knuckles in my head just won't go away!!  . I'll have another look when you've cleaned them up . I presume you didn't use a cutting disc to avoid cutting into the sections below? |
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Post by Zed. on Jul 13, 2021 21:54:25 GMT
Man I'm getting PTSD just looking at that, images of bloody knuckles in my head just won't go away!! Wuss  I started with real MINI's, not had knuckle-skin for over 30 years! but seriously, if you've seen some of the holes I've cut in cars (& welded up again) you'll understand this is nothing I presume you didn't use a cutting disc to avoid cutting into the sections below? sorta but also this way I dont spray evrything in sparks  my prefered bodywork cutting method is a sharp wood chisel, nice strait edges and can get into corners. I'll be slightly cautious with the next cuts as I've no idea what I'll find  Rich. |
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Post by dadbif on Jul 14, 2021 6:34:13 GMT
Why do you think the rear inner of the engine bay was shaped thus? For cosmetic reasons or to reduce twisting between the engine and suspension bearing inner part and the bulkhead?
I’d go for stiffening, don’t cut away more than you need to, it’s there for a reason…
REAL Minis! Now there was a challenge, many is the time I have chipped my nail varnish fitting the coolant hose between block and head, until the concertina version was introduced, I must have left pounds of flesh in the engine bays of those over the years.
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Post by atlex on Jul 14, 2021 8:11:25 GMT
Eye-opening shots of parts we rarely see the inside of.
'seethe!' haha. yes, not connected to the bulkhead.. I wonder why not.
I punt some ACF50 down the holes above this area each year. Looks like a disgusting rust-development area were it not for the drain hole.
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Post by Zed. on Jul 14, 2021 9:08:17 GMT
Why do you think the rear inner of the engine bay was shaped thus? For cosmetic reasons or to reduce twisting between the engine and suspension bearing inner part and the bulkhead? I’d go for stiffening, don’t cut away more than you need to, it’s there for a reason… I totally agree, will be putting some metal back to replace some of the structure. I had thought of just drilling through the bulkhead to feed the pipe but am much happier now I know whats 'hidden' inside that section  REAL Minis! Now there was a challenge, many is the time I have chipped my nail varnish fitting the coolant hose between block and head, until the concertina version was introduced, I must have left pounds of flesh in the engine bays of those over the years. Ah, the infamous 'bypass' hose  the (mafco?) conveluted hoses didn't last BUT got you back on the road... the lower / gearbox mount below the bellhousing was the worst - especially if nobody had touched it since new as it was secured to the subframe with 5/16unf nut/bolt with Minimal access to get a spanner near and of course the rear subframe's front mount in the sill, deep joy with them & spinning captive-nuts  great cars though, had a few standard / Coopers / Cooper 'S' & a Fellpoint MiniJem Rich. |
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Post by dadbif on Jul 14, 2021 14:24:43 GMT
Those were the days, a decent 1/2” x 9/16” ring spanner and you could fix the world…
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Post by Zed. on Jul 14, 2021 15:40:57 GMT
Those were the days, a decent 1/2” x 9/16” ring spanner and you could fix the world… thought they were 7/16 & 1/2" then 9/16 & 5/8" AF of course 1/4 Whit being close (tight?) on 1/2" AF for corroded bolts Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jul 15, 2021 20:30:06 GMT
throwing this in here as a placeholder, I found this ages ago but cannot remember if I've shared it here...  this is a Suzuki GSXR1300 Hayabusa inlet port looking towards the valveseats.  when compared to the standard Mazda B6 (1.6L)ports you can see a serious difference   I've tried to modify the ports & Jenvey inlet similar to the Suzuki port but need more work - theres a 'corner at each outer edge that cannot be good for flow.... I'll be cutting a cylinderhead to learn the port-wall thicknesses & hopefully rough-machine a fresh head as testbed... Rich. |
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Post by dadbif on Jul 18, 2021 12:53:33 GMT
Those were the days, a decent 1/2” x 9/16” ring spanner and you could fix the world… thought they were 7/16 & 1/2" then 9/16 & 5/8" AF of course 1/4 Whit being close (tight?) on 1/2" AF for corroded bolts Rich. Mine must be special…  |
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Post by dadbif on Jul 18, 2021 12:54:03 GMT
Those were the days, a decent 1/2” x 9/16” ring spanner and you could fix the world… thought they were 7/16 & 1/2" then 9/16 & 5/8" AF of course 1/4 Whit being close (tight?) on 1/2" AF for corroded bolts Rich. Mine must be special… 😜 |
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Post by Zed. on Jul 22, 2021 11:16:18 GMT
tripped over a gearing calculator so compared the gearing I have (modified 6speed as 5 speed & 4.778:1 final drive) against the 5.1:1 final drive I covert...  what suprises me is it's still got long legs even with the non-roadcar gearing Rich. |
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Post by howardb66 on Jul 22, 2021 11:25:33 GMT
4500rpm at 70 is going to be earache?
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Post by Zed. on Jul 22, 2021 12:49:50 GMT
4500rpm at 70 is going to be earache? throttlebodies = music geared for ~70 in 'second' with the 4.778....... iirc, my last Escort was revving to ~5k when @ 70mph the joys of a 4 speed gearbox  Rich. |
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Post by howardb66 on Jul 23, 2021 9:12:27 GMT
Driving the MK1 2hrs back from events was pretty wearing, even the sound of ITBs got irritating on the motorway. It was flipping loud though 😂
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. I'll have another look when you've cleaned them up 
le sigh