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Post by Zed. on Jul 11, 2021 14:13:03 GMT
decided to ' add lightness' (& some space for oilpipework) by trimming a section of innerwing/bulkhead gusset.  this area is commonly removed on both sides for V8 or LFX engine conversions and doesn't seem to cause issues with bodyshell strength - not that I'll leave the area rough-cut as it'll get a strengthening panel welded in to replace the missing section. this allows easier fittment of the drysump oiltank's 'scavange' pipework as it only has to pass through a single-skin andalso gives easier access to the gearbox / engine bolting. Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jul 11, 2021 17:48:20 GMT
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Post by atlex on Jul 11, 2021 19:19:09 GMT
I believe those 5.12 type ratios were for the smaller 6" diff.
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Post by Zed. on Jul 11, 2021 19:44:33 GMT
I believe those 5.12 type ratios were for the smaller 6" diff. my reserch gives the early Mx5's 4.3:1 & the 323 4x4 turbo's rear diff 3.9:1, both use the 6" diff (maybe a 3.7, 4.1 and 4.6:1 from Rx3 & earlier cars but unsure  ) the 5.1 linked above was for the later 7" diff (actually from B200's & Bongo's but.....) unless anyone can find better info? Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jul 11, 2021 21:26:42 GMT
confession time... even though I don't believe the hype of coolant reroutes I might be making a slightly homemade version this is based around the 'IF' in If I use the 323 cylinderhead as a base & start modifying (again!)...  looking at taking the heater feed from the cylinderhead between numbers 3 & 4 inlet ports (as the fwd cars) and having the rad top hose from the rear of the cylinderhead using a 323 thermostat housing with pipework routed along the passanger side innerwing.  I'll drill & tap or weld a threadded boss onto the Jenvey inlet manifold to run the heater pipe, the heater pipe will run through the bulkhead @ the drivers side to save pipes snaking around the head. Rich. |
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Post by dadbif on Jul 11, 2021 22:33:45 GMT
I only did the heater bypass to remove the thermostat housing and make space for the supercharger outlet pipe.
Otherwise I don’t think it necessary, typical internet wisdom driven modification.
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Post by Zed. on Jul 11, 2021 22:41:41 GMT
I only did the heater bypass to remove the thermostat housing and make space for the supercharger outlet pipe. Otherwise I don’t think it necessary, typical internet wisdom driven modification. hummm....  in the 323 there is a 'bypass' from the inlet manifold between numbers 1 & 2 ports that returns to the waterpump inlet - effectively limiting the coolant passing through the oilcooler & heater also, theres a small pipe bypassing from what on 1.6 Mx5's ids called the 'Devil' plug... must be a reason? Rich. |
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Post by dadbif on Jul 12, 2021 8:22:34 GMT
Indeed there must, obviously Mazda engineers saw the need for coolant bypass routings in the turbocharged East/West configuration, but did not in a naturally aspirated North/South installation, why should we believe that they were wrong?
I’m sure they must have done extensive testing…
BTW Zed, you are a picture posting guru 🤪, is it possible to reorientate pictures after uploading? Or must I induce the error beforehand so that is correct when uploaded?
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Post by Zed. on Jul 12, 2021 8:49:56 GMT
Indeed there must, obviously Mazda engineers saw the need for coolant bypass routings in the turbocharged East/West configuration, but did not in a naturally aspirated North/South installation, why should we believe that they were wrong? I’m sure they must have done extensive testing… BTW Zed, you are a picture posting guru 🤪, is it possible to reorientate pictures after uploading? Or must I induce the error beforehand so that is correct when uploaded? well, the world & his (her / it's / them / their?) dog seems to think Mazda didn't know what they were doing with the Mx5 cooling system so who am I to argue? still believe theres a few manufacturers & re-sellers pushing the Emperror's new clothes with a few items but  as to hosting, depends where / who you use? can send t me & I'll sort for you if you're having difficulties? Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jul 12, 2021 18:19:06 GMT
stripped the head from the silver car, naturally one of the oilway plugs rounded its allen / hex drive so out with the welder..  out in one.  cost 1 m10 nut, now the head is in the partswasher Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jul 12, 2021 20:09:32 GMT
had 5 mins with the battery drill & spotweld cutter, then naturally the battery drill's battery went flat   removed the screenwash reservoir lower mount.  bit cleaner there without it...  the 'cut' line, I'll try to follow the chassis-rail profile as the lip is usefull to fit speedclips onto if I want to add a heatshield at a later date... more to follow. Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jul 12, 2021 21:26:02 GMT
I believe those 5.12 type ratios were for the smaller 6" diff. my reserch gives the early Mx5's 4.3:1 & the 323 4x4 turbo's rear diff 3.9:1, both use the 6" diff (maybe a 3.7, 4.1 and 4.6:1 from Rx3 & earlier cars but unsure ) the 5.1 linked above was for the later 7" diff (actually from B200's & Bongo's but.....) unless anyone can find better info? Rich. Ah ha! found an old ad from 2015 on MT.net for www.miataturbo.net/miata-parts-sale-trade-5/type-i-torsen-differential-5-125-finaldrive-ratio-90516/amusing comments also Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jul 13, 2021 8:36:30 GMT
back to the head from the partswasher...  bit cleaner! ![]()  ![]() the chambers & inlet ports were quite clean before but now are easily inspected.  number 1 chamber & valveseats / ports.  number 2 chamber, can see the ports 'valve-throat' area is machined @ manufacture & the casting quality shows un-machined areas...  number 3 inlet port, this I mentioned previously & was suprised how well the engine performed even with this restriction! again bad casting & not picked up in quality control   number 1 exhaust port - for no other reason than 'why not'   back to the camfollower boss / cam clearance relief's.  slight relief cast but not as much as the others I've seen.  again casting quality, lots of lamination as the metal was cooling during pouring, not a head I would trust for modification so, this head will be sacrificed to the god of hacksaw (or powersaw?) and hopefully will provide an idea of coolant passageways compared to ports although with the casting quality I could only use it as a guide.... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jul 13, 2021 9:04:43 GMT
something else from the partswaher, I cleaned the 'old' oilpump / front cover (now gutted for use with the drysump system's external oilpump) and some old waterpumps that I'd stripped to use for mockup purposes (playing with scrap!)  top waterpump is 1.8 type, middle is 1.6 type & oilpump / front cover lower.  again but engine-side view.  waterpump differences, 1.8 has integral alternator adjuster strap mount & a plain hole for the cambelt tensioner pulley bolt ( threads into cylinderblock) whereas 1.6 type has no alternator adjuster mount and threadded hole for cambelt tensioner pulley bolt. ![]() possibly interesting / usefull, the oilpump pressure-out porting has a threadded hole (sealed with a taper-threadded grubscrew / plug) that can be used to fit a 'pre-filtered' oil pressure sender, usefull to know if the filter is getting blocked?  plug removed. more waffle to follow..... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jul 13, 2021 10:16:54 GMT
More waffle.... thought I'd compare the headgasket from the silver car's 1.6 Lnc engine to a Payen replacement for the B6t (listed as a different part to the Mx5 in the Paye catndog) ![]()  ![]() payen B6t gasket is new (was bought to compare & was cheap on ebay!) differences in the coolant passageways (exhaust side @ outer edge)  easier to see? (correct orientation with inlet on left & front of engine lower)  the Mx5 gasket has extra coolant flow passageways. on inlet but less @ exhaust in the gasket BUT that doesn't mean the head / block have these positions open... will look later. Rich. |
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le sigh