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Post by scottydugg on Jul 12, 2019 9:08:22 GMT
wannabe, are you doing a coolant re-route whilst the heads off? My plan is to, going to use the Skidnation kit.
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Post by Zed. on Jul 12, 2019 10:59:34 GMT
You've already been generous with the special headbolts! its a few ££'s to post a bolt..... wannabe , are you doing a coolant re-route whilst the heads off? is it actually needed or just a case of everyone does it so it must be good ('the emperor's new clothes'? sorta thing?) I'm cynical of the reroute, think a better design of headgasket would help matters (or 'plug' / restrict the waterways in the cylinderblock around number 1 cylinder to re-direct coolant taking a few ideas from front wheel drive / transverse fitment to rear wheel drive / inline fitment race & rally engine tuning here) and a better design (not thicker oem style) radiator would improve matters? I know this is a can-of-worms BUT thats my diferent view on the car..... Rich.
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Post by wannabe on Jul 12, 2019 11:35:01 GMT
You've already been generous with the special headbolts! its a few ££'s to post a bolt..... wannabe , are you doing a coolant re-route whilst the heads off? is it actually needed or just a case of everyone does it so it must be good ('the emperor's new clothes'? sorta thing?) I'm cynical of the reroute, think a better design of headgasket would help matters (or 'plug' / restrict the waterways in the cylinderblock around number 1 cylinder to re-direct coolant taking a few ideas from front wheel drive / transverse fitment to rear wheel drive / inline fitment race & rally engine tuning here) and a better design (not thicker oem style) radiator would improve matters? I know this is a can-of-worms BUT thats my diferent view on the car..... Rich. You are too generous - I wouldn't say no if the offer is there, kind sir! re: the coolant reroute, I'm sorta of the same viewpoint as you, Rich - I'm not sure there's been any back-to-back testing with empirical data on engine temperatures and warming/cooling cycle speed? I do have one of the chunky aluminium radiators, on the basis my standard one was blocked to the point of everything overheating, and while it was being replaced I thought I might as well 'upgrade' (with comments re: standard parts being good for a decade or more noted ) Mine always stays rock-steady in the middle with the aluminium rad - I know the capacitors in the dash are designed to not move the dial unless things are getting considerably hotter, but it doesn't move even in super-hot weather.
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Post by scottydugg on Jul 12, 2019 12:18:12 GMT
Very true, maybe it's only worth doing for FI and under-bonnet temp management. I was only considering as it'd be easy to do with the head off.
Maybe that's 130 quid that can be spent elsewhere.
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Post by wannabe on Jul 12, 2019 14:01:48 GMT
Very true, maybe it's only worth doing for FI and under-bonnet temp management. I was only considering as it'd be easy to do with the head off. Maybe that's 130 quid that can be spent elsewhere. It could be worth sticking a dedicated thread/question up, as the discussion might get lost amongst all my waffle in this thread lol
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Post by wannabe on Jul 12, 2019 20:00:30 GMT
Sigh... Nothing is ever bloody simple. Tonight's minor thing that looks like it's going to hold me up is.... ... a missing tensioner pulley pivot... the thing pointed out here on the MX5Parts listing picture: www.mx5parts.co.uk/waterpump-genuine-mazda-mk1-p-889.html www.mx5parts.co.uk/images/prod_img/si476.jpg www.mx5parts.co.uk/waterpump-aftermarket-mk1-p-245.html It looks like it's not been there for a while, and might never have even been on the waterpump that is fitted (which I think I had done when I had the head gasket done a couple of years ago). I'm looking to see if I can find a listing for it so I can just buy it, but I'm willing to bet money a waterpump replacement is needed. I guess it is fine without it while I check the timing, as the pulley won't be moving once it's taken up the slack on the cambelt and I rotate everything by hand, but I'd rather fix it properly before I start it up How does anyone ever do any work on their own cars when all these tiny niggly things keep coming up and stopping you in your tracks?? It's such a massive PITA. I was thinking about just sticking a screw of the correct diameter in there as a quick fix, but the thread pitch will of course be totally wrong, so that's a no-go. Any recommendations, including a can of petrol and a match, welcomed and appreciated! EDIT: Okay, so it appears to not be threaded (from what I can see and feel with one side of a needle-nose pliers inserted and run in/out to feel for thread grooves). It is presumably, then, just a friction-fit bit of metal. (Which is stupid!) The shiny new (for this job) measuring calipers from the ebay measure it as somewhere around 4.76 - 4.86mm. So I shall have to find some 5mm rod, I reckon, or something just under that! Failing that, £40-70 on a new waterpump lol
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Post by Zed. on Jul 12, 2019 21:03:37 GMT
Tbh, you only need that pin when tensioning the belt (IF you are using the Mazda one ‘spring’ tension?) it’s for the tensioner to ‘arc’ around under spring pressure to set belt tension. Could wonder if it was ever there & if it was where did it go? If there’s nothing wrong with the pump you can just use a pin / Allen-key to act as the pivot to set the belt tension and once the tensioner-pulley bolt is tight remove the pin etc? ^^sorta what I’d do Anyway, as to pumps... this one has been on my eBay watchlist for a few months..... rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F372664283495Also local to me (& nothing to do with me) but that don’t help you £9.95 posted.... Rich.
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Post by wannabe on Jul 12, 2019 23:07:57 GMT
D'OH! Of course! You are right - I was being dumb and thinking the pulley would be moving to tighten/slacken the belt on the move, but it is of course torqued down so it doesn't move, so you are correct in saying it only needs to pivot during initial setting / cambelt fitment. Have allen keys, will try that method tomorrow! Sometimes I wish I wasn't so detail-obsessed and could step back and consider the bigger picture lol
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Post by schercheeroo on Jul 13, 2019 8:57:19 GMT
re: the coolant reroute, I'm sorta of the same viewpoint as you, Rich - I'm not sure there's been any back-to-back testing with empirical data on engine temperatures and warming/cooling cycle speed? It's an interesting point you raise. I also have never seen any evidence or test results that demonstrates the effectiveness of the coolant reroute. All I've seen is internet bro science and anecdotal evidence. If you read a popular US based MX5 forum, it would seem the reroute is a mandatory upgrade for any high power MX5. However, I have strong reservations about accepting any advice given on that American website. This is because the most prolific posters giving that advice are either forum moderators, sponsors, or vendors. The products recommended are usually those sold by the moderators, sponsors or vendors. To the point that new forum users are bullied for not using the recommended products, and any non approved item, product or company is often dismissed out of hand. Back to coolant reroutes, measuring the effect of rerouting the coolant system would not be difficult to do, just expensive. You could modify a cylinder head to accept an array of thermocouples inside the coolant jacket, probably positioned to measure the coolant temperature near the exhaust valve seat. You could then run a back to back test with and without the reroute, making sure to control the engine speed (and therefore pump speed), engine load, coolant medium properties, and coolant temperature (which the thermostat should handle). The testing would almost certainly have to be carried out on a dyno to allow the engine to be held in a steady state condition long enough for temperatures to stabilaise. I think the real reason that there is no tangible evidence proving the effectiveness of the coolant reroute is that the measuring, recording, analysing and presenting of data is prohibitively expensive. Especially for small companies.
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Post by dadbif on Jul 13, 2019 12:31:14 GMT
I did a coolant reroute when I fitted my supercharger, since then I have not seen any noticeable change in temperature. One thing that I am sure of, it will be a pain in the backside to change the thermostat, something that was a simple job before the reroute. Plus it is now harder to reach the oil filter. In hindsight I wish I hadn’t bothered.
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jon
Chats A Lot
Posts: 270
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Post by jon on Jul 16, 2019 5:59:30 GMT
re: the coolant reroute, I'm sorta of the same viewpoint as you, Rich - I'm not sure there's been any back-to-back testing with empirical data on engine temperatures and warming/cooling cycle speed? It's an interesting point you raise. I also have never seen any evidence or test results that demonstrates the effectiveness of the coolant reroute. All I've seen is internet bro science and anecdotal evidence. If you look at the designs of the mk1/2 and the VVT head gaskets, mazda changed the later gasket on to alter the flow around the engine, which suggests that the earlier design wasn't the best - manufacturers don't spend money on things like that unless there's a need. It also means a reroute is a bad idea if you are using a VVT head gasket, you'd need to swap to an earlier model one (or drill out the blanked ports). If you are building a high power car and/or something that's going to spend a lot of it's life running hot (ie. track car), the reroute makes sense logically from a heat management perspective as it's a straight path through the engine, not in and round and back out the front again. If you aren't planning on extreme use, then it probably doesn't make much difference. From what I remember, and it's been a fair few years now, when I did the reroute it dropped the temperatures I was seeing on the hot side of the rad by several degrees (aftermarket gauge). You also don't need to spend a fortune on a pre built kit - you can make your own using a mixture of mazda bits that will run you to about £20 + good quality rad hose.
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Post by Zed. on Jul 26, 2019 12:37:15 GMT
So......................
no reports good or bad so....
is it running yet?
Rich.
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Post by wannabe on Jul 26, 2019 14:23:21 GMT
So...................... no reports good or bad so.... is it running yet? Rich. Thanks for checking in! Sadly still static Work and commuting and various appointments/commitments have kept me busy, and then the weather always rains when I get some time (like this weekend, for example - downpours forecast!) so it's still no further If it does buck-up over the weekend I'd like to get some done!
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Post by dickie on Jul 26, 2019 16:34:04 GMT
Hi Folks, On the subject of a coolant re route, It is done to stop number four cylinder running hot when the engine is driven very hard or making loads of power. Our engine is from a front wheel drive car turned north south. The standard MX coolant flow is a compromise. The thermostat is fitted at the back of the cylinder head in the re route which is where it was fitted in the 323 FWD which was fitted east west. The coolant re route returns the flow to the same route as in the FWD car. If you do not push your car to the limit no point in doing it. If you do trackdays then its a worth while mod. The later head gasket restricts some of the flow forcing it to flow more evenly round the head.
Ps buy yourself a cheap Gazebo to work on the car, good for the garden barbeque as well.
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Post by V6 on Jul 29, 2019 17:34:01 GMT
NASA countdown style... T MINUS 14 DAYS...
Rebuilt Red v Slow Silver
Who will be rolling first? 😁
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