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Post by martiny on Apr 28, 2019 16:18:33 GMT
So, here's the junction block where the brake line arrives at the rear subframe and gets distributed to both sides. My question is what's the easiest way to get the rear subframe off when the brake lines don't want to separate? I only want to detach the lines from the rear subframe so it can go for blasting and repainting. Aside from the flare nut I just rounded with a 10mm spanner, the lines are in better nick than the rest of the underside. If I could see how it's attached, it might be easier to unhitch the cross pipe from the subframe and just leave the brake lines dangling as the subframe comes off. But I can feel it's fixed to the subframe in two places and I can't work out what the fixing is. Is a proper flare nut spanner going to do the job a plain open spanner can't? Or Mole grips? Don't want to screw it up and make more work than needed.
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Post by Zed. on Apr 28, 2019 16:39:24 GMT
I'd say heat might help there, or dynamite once the pipe-nut has started to 'round' the battle is just about over as they are so small & there's not much to 'drive' to loosen? a good mole-grips may work BUT thats only usefull if theres enough room... have you a small 'stillsons'? (self-gripping wrenct type thinggy), they destroy while loosening but it usually works think theres plastic pipe-clips that hold the pipe to the subframe, if you loosen the pipe from the body an ammount then you can drop the subframe an ammount to access? I think Rich.
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Post by wannabe on Apr 28, 2019 18:44:36 GMT
The flare nut is where the pipes join the calipers? And where the clutch fluid pipework meets the slave cylinder? If so, a special brake nut spanner thing really does make a difference compared to a standard spanner.
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Post by dadbif on Apr 28, 2019 20:40:49 GMT
You need a split ring spanner, literally a ring spanner with a slot in it to allow it to fit over the pipe and around the pipe fitting. Then plenty of penetrating oil, try tightening it up before undoing it...
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Post by dadbif on Apr 28, 2019 20:42:49 GMT
Just looked more closely at your picture, you may have to cut it off and use new pipe and distribution block
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Post by martiny on Apr 28, 2019 20:59:31 GMT
Right. Proper flare nut spanner is going to be step 1. Step 2 will depend on rising desperation.
Access is actually pretty good. (I should say for anyone in doubt, this photo is in the right rear wheel well. Tube coming in to the steel block from the right is the brake line from the front of the car, tube exiting upward runs across the rear subframe to the left rear brake, hose coming towards us is the right rear brake hose.)
I suddenly realise I should have stuck a camera in to see what's holding the brake line to the subframe. I've got one of those slender USB endoscope cams you plug into your phone; totally forgot I had it. It can't be rocket surgery - everyone who takes a subframe off to refurb it must come up against this.
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Post by lowender on Apr 28, 2019 21:14:18 GMT
On my car ('95 1.8) , the brake line is held to the subframe with plastic spring clips - I just prised it out.
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Crumpets
Chats A Bit
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Posts: 222
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Post by Crumpets on Apr 28, 2019 23:40:39 GMT
+1 for plastic clips on the subframe, they can be stubborn though, enough to bend the brake line.
I would try to remove before.
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Post by martiny on Apr 30, 2019 11:27:54 GMT
Just to polish this off as I know you're all breathless to hear, a flare nut spanner was 6 quid well invested.
Both the nuts in the photo above just rounded off which was a poor start but they were only nice-to-haves. The vital one was on the opposite side and for that one I remembered the advice to try tightening first and hey presto it cracked loose. Nice.
Also the brake line is indeed just a push fit into the two concealed plastic clips on the subframe. The same flare nut spanner was the perfect tool to hook the line beside each clip and gently pry it out undamaged. At this point your correspondent realised he had used up his supply of good luck for the evening and withdrew to catch up on American Gods and beer.
Thanks all.
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Post by warpspeed on Dec 14, 2020 23:37:51 GMT
Agree with the others. First step use a proper split ring spanner, preferably a six point ring spanner rather than a twelve point ring spanner.
If you do round off the flats on the nut, use a pair of vise grips. Get them on as TIGHT as you possibly can, to the point of actually crushing the nut. That has never failed for me. Brute strength and ignorance prevailing !
That involves replacing the nut with a new one, which you will have to do anyway if the original has rounded, and re-flaring the pipe.
Old cars are fun to work on, Eh !
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Post by dickie on Dec 17, 2020 18:18:45 GMT
I hate to say it but you should replace the brake pipes, flexible and hard as well as the block its all pretty corroded. If you are going to the effort of getting the subframe done do the rest of the safety work while you are at it.
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Post by batou on Dec 17, 2020 18:35:47 GMT
"Apr 30, 2019" You left the guy hanging for nearly two years???
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Post by martiny on Dec 23, 2020 21:32:09 GMT
"Apr 30, 2019" You left the guy hanging for nearly two years??? Happily I didn't wait. Subframe and arms all got blasted, coated and new bushes last year. Aside from surface rust on the junction block, the brake lines were all in good shape so I let them be.
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