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Post by Bilbo on May 7, 2020 0:18:51 GMT
Top work!  I recall getting slightly high from the smell of unburnt petrol on our run to buy a battery in your previous 5...  lol Hi mate! Long time no speak! Hope you're well. Oh yeah, hahaha good times. A rich tune, a minor exhaust leak, and not bunging the AC holes was the primary reason for that I reckon haha. |
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Post by Zed. on May 7, 2020 7:47:35 GMT
It appears that the bracket that holds the throttle stopper bolt in is kinked slightly, meaning the bolt is actually skimming the side of the pedal rather than hitting it. No idea how long it has been like that for, probably from when my mate gave it hell at Santa Pod with hundreds of hard clutch kicks and throttle stamps haha! check the pedalbox, it might be cracked (common problem)  Rich. |
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Post by Bilbo on May 10, 2020 1:37:47 GMT
It appears that the bracket that holds the throttle stopper bolt in is kinked slightly, meaning the bolt is actually skimming the side of the pedal rather than hitting it. No idea how long it has been like that for, probably from when my mate gave it hell at Santa Pod with hundreds of hard clutch kicks and throttle stamps haha! check the pedalbox, it might be cracked (common problem) Rich. Thanks. I can confirm after checking that the pedal box doesn't appear to be cracked, but the throttle pedal stop bracket is definitely bent a bit! |
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Post by Bilbo on May 10, 2020 2:00:56 GMT
No one likes a text post with no photos, so yeah I like neons:  £20 Ebay purchase from well over a year ago + Lockdown = Bored enough to actually extend the wiring and fit these. My camera has a Night Mode, but apparently I can't hold it still enough to take them very well haha. But anyway they have 12 colours I think, but I love purple. I have my interior LEDs set to the exact same colour too, it's all very garish and somewhat fabulous. Aaaaanyway, progress. Progress has been made. I had to make an essential shopping journey today, so had some seat time on the way there and back to get some datalogging and tuning improvements done. I've got the idle and low RPM cruise to a pretty ok place by this point, still quite rich in places, but I'm making progress. My mind then turned to giving the throttle a harder push, to try and get the upper sections of the VE Table dialled in a little. I noticed that they were outrageously out of proportion to my cruise areas, so I made some cuts to the values before even attempting a WOT pull. I tried my first pull in 2nd gear to get an idea, and a big hard buck greeted me a split second later. Checking my datalog I was expecting to see that Acceleration Enrichment was somehow responsible, but I've got the graph set pretty low so that it doesn't interfere with my initial setting up of the VE table. What I found was a fair bit more concerning. While I had pulled a fair amount of fuel out of the upper rows of the VE Table, it just wasn't enough. AFRs were spiking silly rich still, and fuel was being injecting at an insane rate. The buck wasn't AE, but in fact the 90% injector duty safety cutoff set in the ECU. Perhaps an amateur mistake to not take it a little easier, and needless to say I didn't try it again until I had this sorted. I went back into the table and made some drastic cuts to the values in most areas above 50-60% TPS, taking note of where the biggest spikes were occuring, and smoothing them out to match the rows below more closely. The result was fantastic. While still sitting a little more rich than I would like, I tried a 1st to 2nd gear WOT pull, and it was glorious. It pulled as expected, no bucks, no AFR spikes, just good progress. Then I hit a wall pretty abruptly (in the power sense, not an actual wall lol). A fast paced rev limiter feeling just hit out of nowhere, much below the standard rev limit. Feeling a little disheartened that my changes hadn't rectified the issue, I checked my datalog. The wall was around 5,950 to 6,000 RPM. Hmmm. I then remembered that as a precaution I had set the rev limit to 6,000RPM in case the used throttle bodies were faulty and somehow got stuck open when I first fitted them and ended up revving the nuts off the engine all the way up to 7,200 on an untuned basemap. Luckily this hasn't happened, and they seem to be working well. I will increase the rev limit back to standard soon. So yeah, good progress being made, and AFRs are starting to look reasonable without any use of o2 correction or using the "Multiply by ratio of AFR to Target AFR" setting. Just trying to straight up get it running well before letting the ECU help fine tune any corrections, rather than using the corrections as a band aid on a crappy tune. If the rain holds off tomorrow then I will implement the adjusted table that Mega Log Viewer has suggested, it seems to have made some fairly reasonable adjustments based on my datalog, mainly leaning out the areas I have seen running particularly rich, which is promising. I did try to get an in-engine bay video of my first successful pull, but unfortunately my SD card was full and it didn't save. I'll get one soon! |
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Post by Bilbo on May 10, 2020 14:39:07 GMT
Took a side-on shot and realised that the car is raking a bit after going from 185/45 to 195/45 on the front:  I'll lower it back down soon. In other news I did a little more tweaking on the ITBs. Noticed that AFRs were sitting a bit lean when warmed up, and the Gamma Enrichment was sitting at 95%. Seeing as I have no AFR corrections on at the moment, I had a look around my settings for what could be causing it. It turns out the IAT Density graph was a little off, and was pulling a little too much fuel out on higher intake temps, more than it needed to. I have sorted this out now and it seems to be much happier. I cable tied my dash cam into the engine bay, and did a little video of a small pull. I do apologise for the audio quality, my dash cam does not like loud noises at all! Can't wait to get this Malian off and get the less bassy exhaust on from Scottydugg. I might actually be able to hear the ITBs then! |
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Post by Zed. on May 10, 2020 15:06:51 GMT
that vid shows a view down the intake through the trumpet, also shows that the trupet is there just for show as theres a step / reduction in the bore size where they meet they throttlebody  Rich. |
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Post by Bilbo on May 10, 2020 15:28:42 GMT
that vid shows a view down the intake through the trumpet, also shows that the trupet is there just for show as theres a step / reduction in the bore size where they meet they throttlebody Rich. Indeed, I need new trumpets to match the inlet size. I got these ones cheap and fitted them, but got my measurements wrong as I bought them based on the outer diameter instead of the inner diameter of the throttle bodies without realising  . I've left them bolted on for now, but the plan is to replace them with trumpets that match the intake size when I have the money for another set! |
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Post by Zed. on May 10, 2020 15:38:33 GMT
that vid shows a view down the intake through the trumpet, also shows that the trupet is there just for show as theres a step / reduction in the bore size where they meet they throttlebody Rich. Indeed, I need new trumpets to match the inlet size. I got these ones cheap and fitted them, but got my measurements wrong as I bought them based on the outer diameter instead of the inner diameter of the throttle bodies without realising . I've left them bolted on for now, but the plan is to replace them with trumpets that match the intake size when I have the money for another set! the standard Triumph airbox has short rubber bellmouths (I've no idea as to what else to call them!) and a complete airbox (including the rubber things & intake-air tep sender) are on ebay for ~ £15 posted.....  and as you're using the triumph tb spacing, you could re-purpose the filterbox as a filter baseplate with a little work (& tinsnips  ) www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-DAYTONA-600-AIRBOX-2002-05/233457759120? I've just bought a hayabusa airbox fro this seller, made an offer that was accepted so maybe try £10? or theres this... www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-TT600-TT-600-JUST-39K-AIRBOX-AIR-BOX-INLET-RUBBERS-X-4/362164162285Rich. |
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Post by Bilbo on May 10, 2020 15:41:13 GMT
Indeed, I need new trumpets to match the inlet size. I got these ones cheap and fitted them, but got my measurements wrong as I bought them based on the outer diameter instead of the inner diameter of the throttle bodies without realising . I've left them bolted on for now, but the plan is to replace them with trumpets that match the intake size when I have the money for another set! the standard Triumph airbox has short rubber bellmouths (I've no idea as to what else to call them!) and a complete airbox (including the rubber things & intake-air tep sender) are on ebay for ~ £15 posted..... and as you're using the triumph tb spacing, you could re-purpose the filterbox as a filter baseplate with a little work (& tinsnips ) www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-DAYTONA-600-AIRBOX-2002-05/233457759120?hash=item365b2ab390:g:U0oAAOSw5nJeE5tr I've just bought a hayabusa airbox fro this seller, made an offer that was accepted so maybe try £10? Rich. Oooh, lovely, thank you. I hadn't considered the originals had them, complete oversight. I'll have a look at these, could be a good option for a filterbox too if I go that route! |
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Post by schercheeroo on May 10, 2020 15:45:58 GMT
I'll lower it back down soon.  |
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Post by Zed. on May 10, 2020 15:47:19 GMT
my thinking is that manufacturers did the hardwork designing stuff & it can be re-purposed / modified  I'm using Suzuki Hayabusa tb's / rubber intake trumpets (filter mounts) & the rubber 'manifold' connectors on mine  Rich. |
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Post by Bilbo on May 10, 2020 15:52:37 GMT
I'll lower it back down soon. Hahaha, very true. In all honesty though, once you adjust to driving a low car I really very rarely have any issues. It's just the crappy Malian exhaust as it hangs so damn low, but that is being swapped out this week for a much better system! my thinking is that manufacturers did the hardwork designing stuff & it can be re-purposed / modified I'm using Suzuki Hayabusa tb's / rubber intake trumpets (filter mounts) & the rubber 'manifold' connectors on mine Rich. Very good point, and for the price I may as well try them. I will need to work out some form of filtration though. For the short testing drives it has been ok, but I would like to have at least a small amount of protection from things finding their way into the intake on longer drives. |
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Post by Bilbo on May 18, 2020 22:23:45 GMT
Ok, so been making small amounts of progress here and there. Made up a little bracket to tilt the throttle bracket so that the throttle cable isn't at such a tight angle:  Not the most fabulous solution aesthetically, but it works nicely and feels very sturdy. Have also used some thread lock stuff on the little bolts to stop them vibrating loose. I do need to adjust the throttle stop on the bodies by shaving it down a bit, as it is part of the bracket I needed to move it now contacts the throttle pulley a bit early, meaning it won't open to 100% TPS without hitting it now. For the meantime while I've been working mainly on cruise AFRs, I have adjusted the throttle pedal stop bolt so that it doesn't get stopped on the throttle bodies side. My original throttle cable was crap after I shortened it, a proper hack job and I was constantly worried about it snapping while driving. With the bracket moved it was too short as well. I got a brand new one, and shortened it at the cabin end, as the cable end on the throttle body side is the perfect size to the mm for the throttle pulley that came with the Daytona 600 bodies. this is sorted now and it's spot on for driveability. Getting the old cable out was hard work, those little clips you have to compress to push it through the firewall, what a total ballache to get to! On the tuning front things are going really well now, I did a ton of miles and have managed to get the cruise AFRs looking great, way less rich than before. Did a 100 mile brim to brim drive and averaged 29.1 MPG, which was mainly town driving, with a small amount of A road. Happy with that, exactly what I was getting before. Obviously not much hard throttle action yet, but at least it's in the ballpark. Today I changed my spark plugs and HT leads. The spark plug socket in my Halfords Advanced kit is the only piece of the kit that sucks, the rubber bit inside that helps pull the loose plug out kept popping out and getting stuck when the replacement plugs were wound in, really frustrating! Fun fact, I've done gearboxes, ECU installs, coilovers, exhausts, interiors, cambelts, radiators, and tons of other stuff. But I realised, I've NEVER ONCE CHANGED A SPARK PLUG BEFORE hahaha. I have no idea why or how, but I've just never done it before today. Mad. The old plugs were a bit grotty from the old cam cover gasket oil leak, some worse than others. The plug ends looked very tired, so I'm glad that I got it sorted. Now no Standalone ECU install is complete without trying out Launch Control, so I did exactly that. It wouldn't work. Clutch Switch. If you ever do an install and your Launch Control won't work, it's probably your Clutch Switch. Car Passion Channel did a great video on how to fix it (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m3GSeDbXaz8), basically the little spring in the clutch switch fails over time from fatigue, and you just need to replace it with a biro spring. Might need to try a couple to get the the right diameter, I did, but it has worked beautifully, Clutch Switch is now reassembled and Launch Control works perfectly. After using it on my old mk1, and now this one, I decided to try the Rolling hard cut, rather than the Full hard cut I used before, which caused a very slow Launch limiter hit, and a dip in revs before it would hit again, making for a slow limiter. Good results, and it works very nicely: No flames, but it works, so I'm happy. |
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Post by Bilbo on May 25, 2020 1:57:45 GMT
Not updated much as not a lot going on with new bits just yet. Got some switches and some metal bought to make up a panel in the centre console for Launch Control, wideband, and secondary fan. The reason I want wideband so I can switch it off is because I sometimes sit with car on ignition for a minute, and this heats the sensor, which isn't ideal with engine not running. I don't want to damage it so I'd like to be able to switch it off when sat like that.
As for the stuff I have been doing, just driving as much as possible and mapping. Finding and sorting a few issues, and getting the AFRs nice across the board. Idle is almost bang on perfect now, still idling a little high, but I can live with it for now. Cruise AFRs are looking great, though sat in 5th at 70 is still quite a bit too rich, so I'll be working on pulling some fuel out of that area soon.
Wide open throttle AFRs are much better, though I'm going to add just a touch more fuel as I approach redline to get it exactly where I want it. Pulls well, certainly doesn't feel slower than when it was standard so I'm doing something right haha.
I've fitted a brand new throttle cable and got it sorted nicely. Need to tweak my throttle cable bracket on the bodies slightly so it can sit a bit more flush, but it is working nicely for the time being.
Got a flyby the other day:
It sounds great, but in person it's absolutely glorious, coupled with the exhaust it just sounds incredible.
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Post by scottydugg on May 25, 2020 9:39:09 GMT
I've watched that more than a couple of times, sounds great, does it burble/pop quite a lot on the overrun? Couldn't quite tell with the wind noise.
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lol
. I've left them bolted on for now, but the plan is to replace them with trumpets that match the intake size when I have the money for another set!
)
le sigh