Bilbo's Scrapeyard Spec Eunos

Thanks mate, I do actually have the entire wiring diagram that I obtained, erm... legally let's say haha.

Basically that all makes sense, but I still don't know which wire on the TPS is which (TPS sensor wires are different colour to the loom in the diagrams), I've had to guess. Maybe that's why my TPS signal is a little odd. If you have a full loom handy from the bike you have, could you check for me? I'd really appreciate a photo of the loom plug to see which wires goes to which on the TPS!

Thanks!

I'll have to dig the engine out as its in the back of one of my Discovery's (bikes in bits, touching-up frame paint so engine out)

I actually have a spare engine in the shed but I'm unsure if theres a loom on it

and yes, I have too many toys & too much stuff

Rich.

For the throttle quadrant/wheel, when I did Daytona itbs on my old car I took the one off the Mazda tb and drilled it out to go on the Daytona spindle and had my mate tack weld the two wheels together, giving oem movement on the pedal, I did find that the throttle was stupidly light, I was silly and just left it and got used to it, but if I were to do it again I'd add a couple old style return springs on the pedal or the throttle wheel!

Cheers for that mate, Lance who's build is on here with Daytona bodies did roughly the same as you, and told me about it. I may have got a little ahead of myself and bolted them in before I remembered haha. For testing the start and running I'll keep as is, but for driving I reckon adapting it will be a much better solution.

Christ, sounds like you've got/had quite the collection of them haha!

Yeah that's one thing I noticed, the Daytona 600 had a pretty short production run, so forum info on it seems to be a bit more scarce than a lot of other bikes.

Had a quick search and it seems Jenvey do, or at least did, a kit with Hayabusa ITBs. Can't see why any 4 cylinder throttle bodies wouldn't work to be honest, as long as port sizes and spacing are reasonable.

and 2 sets of Hayabusa itb's.....



somebody stop me



anyway...


in the latest vid, you say its rich on idle, when you rev it it sounds like its going weak (or is that where the map ends?)

Rich.

So a little more progress this evening. I got my throttle cable attached, though it ideally needs a little work and I could do with repositioning the bracket that holds the outer cable on. We'll see if it works.

With engine off I gave the throttle a burst of quick sharp taps, and it seems to be happy enough, so it'll do for initial testing purposes I suppose. I'm probably going to remove it and order a custom made cable to fit exactly as I need, but we'll see how we get on.

I then tested the wide open throttle position, and was concerned when I noticed when burying the throttle, the throttle stop on the ITBs was being hit before the throttle stop on the throttle pedal itself. This obviously won't do as it will either lead to a ton of strain on the throttle pulley on the side of the ITBs, or more likely a snapped cable.


So I got down into the driver's side footwell (there is literally no elegant way to do this with a seat in the car haha!), and had a look at what was going on. It appears that the bracket that holds the throttle stopper bolt in is kinked slightly, meaning the bolt is actually skimming the side of the pedal rather than hitting it. No idea how long it has been like that for, probably from when my mate gave it hell at Santa Pod with hundreds of hard clutch kicks and throttle stamps haha!

So I removed the throttle stop bolt, and found another with exactly the same thread pitch (I didn't want to damage the original with my new plan). Due to the lack of thread where the bolt sticks through, sticking 2 nuts on the end and tightening them to each other was not an option. So I found a nut with a different thread pitch to the bolt, and I forced it on the end tight. Sounds a bit Roadkill I know, but it worked perfectly, it isn't going anywhere.



As you can see this has essentially made the throttle stopper much wider on the end, which means the throttle pedal can contact it again, rather than missing it entirely.

I adjusted it little by little, and now I have it bolted down and set so that even with heavy force applied to the throttle, the throttle stop on the ITB side will never bare the brunt.

Also had a little feel underneath the throttle bodies, and with trumpets removed I should be able to access the idle bypass screws with a little bit of fiddling around. I'll have a crack at this tomorrow, and will try to get them adjusted so the idle is somewhere sane (not 400rpm!), and I will then balance them with the synchrometer.