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Post by dadbif on Nov 25, 2020 8:55:46 GMT
Did you have the engine running when you timed your windows?
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Post by batou on Nov 25, 2020 10:30:39 GMT
Did you have the engine running when you timed your windows? Nope, both times it was off.
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Post by boggissimo on Nov 25, 2020 11:04:45 GMT
Nice job. My drivers side window is OK but the passenger side is even worse than yours was! This in on my 'one day I will get around to it' list of jobs. Maybe that day will come sooner when we can start getting out and about with passengers again...
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Post by batou on Nov 25, 2020 11:16:51 GMT
Nice job. My drivers side window is OK but the passenger side is even worse than yours was! This in on my 'one day I will get around to it' list of jobs. Maybe that day will come sooner when we can start getting out and about with passengers again... My main concern was the strain on the motor, greasing the windows and replacing a £4 part is much cheaper than a motor replacement
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Post by dave6 on Nov 25, 2020 15:56:47 GMT
Nice job. My drivers side window is OK but the passenger side is even worse than yours was! This in on my 'one day I will get around to it' list of jobs. Maybe that day will come sooner when we can start getting out and about with passengers again... I just squirted some white lithium grease down my runners (oooh err!) with everything still assembled as a quick fix, I've not needed to disassemble yet & that was a couple of years ago. Worth doing as batou said, if only to save the motor.
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Post by batou on Nov 25, 2020 16:04:49 GMT
So one of the things I need to do is pull the gearbox and check the source of the leak in that area and resolve that but a few things are running through my brain, one was to do a lightened flywheel while I'm in there... they are pricey and really do they gain anything other than a bit more of a peppy feeling for the sake of more jolty of throttle (I've had lightweight flywheels on other cars)? So this idea has gone back and forth, and I nearly ordered a JUN 4.6kg one the other day but my brain has gone back the other way so I think I'll just get the oem one refaced this time round (the clutch has only seen a few thousand km since it was last done but really for the cost I'll undoubtably put a new one on incase the other one has any source of contamination thats not obvious). Now with money saved in one area its only fair to think about where else it could go, obviously the first being the rusty front wings and associated work, I'm just waiting to see if theres a black friday discount before I pull the trigger on some new ones. Other thoughts I've had was the consideration of a better differential down the line, I'm sure any issues with traction on a 1.6 can be fixed with stickier tyres but if I needed a new diff I'd like to have a route in mind and a post from Zed. had me thinking a little. I decided to maybe continue that here rather than clutter someone elses build thread with my brain faff... there isn't really a plated diff you can pop in the 1.6 VLSD housing without replacing the half shafts and the fact the ring gear is small I'd be tempted to do it. MazdaMotorsports sold a plate lsd for the earlier 6" diff (same used in early rx7 & 323gtx rear diff), got one in my '91 Eunos... although I will be replacing it with a 7" diff shortly.... Rich. I did a little digging in regards to that diff and it appears it used to be used by the spec miata guys, however when it became very hard to get hold of and new items were not available they opened up the options to allow the Cusco MZ into the regs. Now I've had a look at this and both the MZ and the milder version, the RS is still available for the NA6CE and whats more you actually need the VLSD shafts so a 1.5 Way Cusco RS is essentially a "straight swap". I like the idea of this, as one thing that puts me off other options is you always have to go down an overpriced used route, it might have been the cheaper way at one point but the cost of 4.1 torsens let alone 4.3's is just silly now. However, your probably thinking what I'm thinking, how is putting a shiny new plated diff onto a worn 6" ring gear and pinon that has done 205,000+kms any better? So yeah, you might dump £500 or so on the Cusco only to find that your back to the drawing board again, only your sourcing a used VLSD housing instead of a a 1.8 diff, shafts and prop. So I guess my question is, firstly, is it actually worth the expense to put a plated diff on a non turbo/itb 1.6 in the first place? Secondly, is there anything you can do refresh the ring gear and pinion other than sourcing one with less miles/abuse? Or stop worring about the 4.3 ratio and just get a "cheap" 1.8 open diff with a 4.1 and put a plated lsd in that instead and lose a little pep in place of more skids? Feel free to tell me I'm being a complete prat and just wait until it actually needs doing on the diff
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Post by Zed. on Nov 25, 2020 16:56:42 GMT
sourcing a used VLSD housing instead of a a 1.8 diff, shafts and prop just to be pedantic... the vlsd uses 2 different length output flanges, one has two different spline diameters so vlsd specific. the MM plate diffs generally have a square drive-flange but I believe they are dimensionally identical to the sculpted-flange shaped versions as fitted to the 6" open diffs So I guess my question is, firstly, is it actually worth the expense to put a plated diff on a non turbo/itb 1.6 in the first place? Secondly, is there anything you can do refresh the ring gear and pinion other than sourcing one with less miles/abuse? Or stop worring about the 4.3 ratio and just get a "cheap" 1.8 open diff with a 4.1 and put a plated lsd in that instead and lose a little pep in place of more skids? Feel free to tell me I'm being a complete prat and just wait until it actually needs doing on the diff I'm of the belief that theres no reason a properly rebuilt / good condition 6" crownwheel & pinion will not last, as long as it's nott on the recieving-end of too much abuse obviously the 7" is stronger, it's not just the gears size but the casing that resists spreading (that allows the crownwheel & pinion to move in their positions & mesh.) I've just binned a 4.1:1 gear pair and cannot see the 4.3:1 being hard to find, 4.3 in 1.6 auto? Rich.
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Post by batou on Nov 25, 2020 17:06:27 GMT
sourcing a used VLSD housing instead of a a 1.8 diff, shafts and prop just to be pedantic... the vlsd uses 2 different length output flanges, one has two different spline diameters so vlsd specific. the MM plate diffs generally have a square drive-flange but I believe they are dimensionally identical to the sculpted-flange shaped versions as fitted to the 6" open diffs So I guess my question is, firstly, is it actually worth the expense to put a plated diff on a non turbo/itb 1.6 in the first place? Secondly, is there anything you can do refresh the ring gear and pinion other than sourcing one with less miles/abuse? Or stop worring about the 4.3 ratio and just get a "cheap" 1.8 open diff with a 4.1 and put a plated lsd in that instead and lose a little pep in place of more skids? Feel free to tell me I'm being a complete prat and just wait until it actually needs doing on the diff I'm of the belief that theres no reason a properly rebuilt / good condition 6" crownwheel & pinion will not last, as long as it's nott on the recieving-end of too much abuse obviously the 7" is stronger, it's not just the gears size but the casing that resists spreading (that allows the crownwheel & pinion to move in their positions & mesh.) I've just binned a 4.1:1 gear pair and cannot see the 4.3:1 being hard to find, 4.3 in 1.6 auto? Rich. Ahh, see these are the details I need to fill in. The Cusco catalogue specifically states that the auto must change to the VLSD specific shafts, so there is more than one type of VLSD shaft in circulation? Yeah thats my thought, really if my current 6" ring gear has lasted this long, then one with less miles/rebuilt should be absolutely fine sans any aspirations to put 300hp through it. I guess there is nothing you can do to reinforce the casing at all? I had no idea the auto had a 4.3, that hadn't even hit my radar in all honesty. Thanks fo that
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Post by swordspork on Nov 25, 2020 17:07:28 GMT
Interesting post, I've been thinking the same regarding the diff.
I too have a Vlsd with some unknown number of miles on it but it's been checked over by skuzzle and a couple of other mx5 people and given the approving nod. I think I'll stick with it for a while seems fine for my use.
The lure of torsens is much less now compared to a couple of years ago as the prices have gone silly and I really like the 5speed and 4.3 ratio I'd not want to mess with that.
Just to play devils advocate on the lightweight flywheel I got a 4.4kg 'mazdaspeed' flywheel (from the bay) fitted earlier this year and I love it. One of my mates had a go in the car before and after having it fitted and summed it up by saying "there's absolutely no downside". Driveability is much the same as before but the engine is noticeably more revvy. I must admit I was a little apprehensive about how it would be after fitting I thought I'd have to reset the idle at least but it's been fine. A little more drivetrain noise than before but to me that just makes it feel more race car.
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Post by Zed. on Nov 25, 2020 17:31:03 GMT
The Cusco catalogue specifically states that the auto must change to the VLSD specific shafts, so there is more than one type of VLSD shaft in circulation? chances are thats a translation issue? Yeah thats my thought, really if my current 6" ring gear has lasted this long, then one with less miles/rebuilt should be absolutely fine sans any aspirations to put 300hp through it. I guess there is nothing you can do to reinforce the casing at all? from what I've seen, no. theres just not the metal in the Pigshead to work with the 6" diff (& mx5 engine) has its origins in the rear of a 323GTX and they had transmission failures from new - although that was a 1.6 turbo & easily fettled I had no idea the auto had a 4.3, that hadn't even hit my radar in all honesty. Thanks fo that iirc, the 1.6 base models & possibly 1.6 auto's are about the best place to look although after 20something years theres no telling Rich.
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Post by batou on Nov 25, 2020 17:36:03 GMT
Interesting post, I've been thinking the same regarding the diff. I too have a Vlsd with some unknown number of miles on it but it's been checked over by skuzzle and a couple of other mx5 people and given the approving nod. I think I'll stick with it for a while seems fine for my use. The lure of torsens is much less now compared to a couple of years ago as the prices have gone silly and I really like the 5speed and 4.3 ratio I'd not want to mess with that. Just to play devils advocate on the lightweight flywheel I got a 4.4kg 'mazdaspeed' flywheel (from the bay) fitted earlier this year and I love it. One of my mates had a go in the car before and after having it fitted and summed it up by saying "there's absolutely no downside". Driveability is much the same as before but the engine is noticeably more revvy. I must admit I was a little apprehensive about how it would be after fitting I thought I'd have to reset the idle at least but it's been fine. A little more drivetrain noise than before but to me that just makes it feel more race car. Torsens don't really appeal to me at all as the cost vs the actual difference in feel is not really going to be sigificant enough on a 1.6, a plated diff however, depending how you set it up can really make a marked difference in driving enjoyment. In terms of the flywheel, again I've had experience with them, the noise doesn't bother me, and driveability won't change much unless you fit a more agressive clutch or go ultra light but to me , it whilst its not crazy its more of how the car noses over more when you come off the throttle and just requires more input under normal driving (moving around traffic, the mundane stuff), you can adapt to it and be smoother but its not like I'm crying out for more response, infact it will just make the STI feel even more laggy in response haha. The only reason was I was considering it is because I would be overhauling that area, I'm feeling the money going into a diff would be a better investment Zed. could be a translation thing but not much else to go on so need to do a bit more digging, ignore the price, greenline are doing them for £530ish plus shipping/tax etc... Cusco Diff for NA6CE by batousan, on Flickr Hmm, in regards to the failures, I guess the risk of adding a fun diff might mean you end up having too much fun and putting more through it than you otherwise would...
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Post by dadbif on Nov 25, 2020 22:19:24 GMT
Nice job. My drivers side window is OK but the passenger side is even worse than yours was! This in on my 'one day I will get around to it' list of jobs. Maybe that day will come sooner when we can start getting out and about with passengers again... I just squirted some white lithium grease down my runners (oooh err!) with everything still assembled as a quick fix, I've not needed to disassemble yet & that was a couple of years ago. Worth doing as batou said, if only to save the motor. X 2 for lithium grease and silicone spray in the rubber window channels.
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Post by swordspork on Nov 27, 2020 9:45:47 GMT
Are greenline a good supplier to use? Not heard of them before. They've got some nice stuff.
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Post by batou on Nov 27, 2020 13:45:48 GMT
Are greenline a good supplier to use? Not heard of them before. They've got some nice stuff.In Being a Japanese company there may be some communication issues and I haven't used them prevously, but blackhawk japan, rhdjapan I have. It just so happens greenline was better on parts prices, you have to get a quotation beforehand so might see how easy they are to deal with first. As always with buying overseas, use a credit card and if problems arsise contact them within the time window if you have any problems with the supplier.
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Post by batou on Dec 5, 2020 20:12:50 GMT
MAINTENANCE# Front Drivers side wing removal & InspectionWhilst going through the rust protection/removal process over the next few weeks/months while the car is sorn I've started removing the front wings (drivers one has arrived and the other is on back order) to inspect and treat underneath. Bit of a faff getting this off and two nuts sheared (not bad considering). If anyone does this, I suggest you undo the top bolts on the front bumper and pull it forward a little to give you access to one of the nuts and use a 10mm spanner in the gap. Also a couple of long extensions are needed to get to the one that attaches near the door where the side repeater is.The bottom part of the wings have been corroded for some time so was worried about the front sill area but it doesn't look too bad? I've removed some surface rust and this now feels very solid, all its had is a wire brush and clean.... Front DR Wing Removal & Inspection - ユーノス ロードスタ S-SPECIAL NA6CE by batousan, on Flickr The inside of the wing had a spot behind the liners which had some flakey underseal which I've chipped off but I need to have a better look at this tomorrow... I think I will start to make it a habit to unbolt the bottom of the wing and remove the liners to clear out some of the crap, as you can see on the floor (of course I put the cardboard in the wrong place!) there is a lot of s h i t e that fell out... I know these aren't particulary exciting updates but just trying to keep things documented, hopefully next year things will get a bit more interesting
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