Batou's 1993 Eunos Roadster NA6CE S-Special - 黒い龍

As a side note, i also bought some of the Delrin door bushings same as yours from eBay as they seemed a good price compared to the MASSIVE cost of the Powerflex ones which i was not going to pay. Bought them at the end of October and they came in from Bulgaria (same as you?) so due to the current issues in the world they only arrived yesterday. No matter, just glad they made it. So that's something to do soon

Alignment is interesting - the yanks seem to recommend more front camber than rear, but for those of us new to RWD and without Chris Harris / Tiff drift skillz, I think more camber on the rear is probably safer... lol

I might have missed it - what steering rack are you running? IIRC I took some caster off mine when I last had it aligned, as I was running 4.5-5 degrees? which was heaaaaavvvy to get straight after cornering, especially without PAS! I also had more toe-in, I think - I think a previous alignment was either zero toe or slight toe out, which was certainly direct in terms of turn-in but also a total PITA WRT following cambers and truck grooves on motorways...

Thanks!

Did you mean Camber 2.5/2/0 F/R? lol

Ar yes, many apologies. Camber 2.5F/2.0R😁

I find its better to set a car up to how you want it to react it in relation to your driving style and inputs, build the speed as you learn it that way, on street tyres your setup wont be that aggressive to create something dangerous and most alignment places who know these cars would probably point out anything odd like exessive toe out and a massive front to rear camber imbalance. Zero toe/out will create that feel, on a track it can be amazing but can get tiresome on the road sometimes. The Subaru has zero toe all round but not much camber and its fine but AWD grip with 2 LSD's helps with that 

More rear camber at the back than front (unless you go too far) creates understeer in these cars, which is considered safe, but, is that the kind of setup you want to learn to build speed from and create muscle memory for when you approach the limits of grip or go beyond them? The issue with understeer when your inexperienced (or even if your not) is it tends to happen when you haven't scrubbed off enough speed and your going at a fair lick, on a track this is not too bad because theres often run off, but on the road, there isn't, and the only way to really get away from understeer is to either turn out of it and straighten the wheels to ask less of them and regain grip but potentially run out of road, or unload the rear by lifting/braking and shift the weight on the fronts to regain grip, and its what most inexperienced drivers do, but with the problem of keeping the lock wound on. Now instead of dealing with progressive, manageble oversteer out of a turn your having to cope with a potential snap oversteer moment (the worst kind of oversteer) as the front regains grip and the rear has no weight and its not easy to catch... (I did this in a 90s Clio 1.4 Sport and ended up swapping ends and rear ending a tree). I'm not a particulary skilled driver but this is a starting point I'd like to start building a rapport with, I tend to corner harder and brake less on the road so this works for now but when I've explored this setp more I may dial more in and add in some stickier rubber but at the moment I'm happy with this as a starting point. 

Its a PAS rack, as the car was made with PAS I don't feel the need to get rid. The Exige was mega without PAS but it was built to be that way, also my mrs drives it occassionally, and while she can deadlift 1.5x her bodyweight she probably wouldn't appreciate parking it without PAS lol. Hmm, 4.5-5 isn't an excessive amount, and it depends what you mean by heavy... lots of caster will create a heavier feeling steering but also a much stronger self centering force so if you get it into a slide you can let go of the wheel and let it unwind, catch it, and (hopefully) hold a slide if your quick on the throttle, too little caster and you'll do a lot of work hand feeding the wheel as the self centering force will be very low and its much harder to correct/catch a slide.

Edit. Also to note, your front and rear spring rates and any uprated ARBs will probably have some bearing on how you set the car up too.


Yup they came from Bulgaria, I was aware of this before I ordered and it was prior to the new lockdown but I was in no real rush. They do make a difference yes, great for the money, look forward to further improvements with a future harness/cabin brace

Ebay name is bel_air so...