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Post by dadbif on Oct 31, 2020 13:00:53 GMT
“I'm old so have a real UK made 'Mole' grip (made in Newport, Monmouth  )” Snap! 👍 |
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Post by schercheeroo on Oct 31, 2020 15:13:44 GMT
If it worked before the head work and cam change, but doesn't now, I would assume there's a problem with the installation.
The first thing I would check would be wiring loom installation, especially grounds on the injector loom, ignition system and main engine ground.
Next would be ECU sensors, i.e. map sensor, speed sensor, and temp sensors. Make sure they read sensible values static and while cranking.
Then, as already suggested, check the ignition timing. Fix the timing in the ECU ignition map (10° BTDC) and check with a timing lamp.
If that all checks out it's either a ECU calibration issue, or a mechanical problem.
A compression test would probably rule out mechanical issues.
For ECU cal, either read up and play with the settings yourself, or if you can take logs, purchase some remote tuning.
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Tom
Chats A Bit
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Post by Tom on Nov 2, 2020 8:46:32 GMT
Wow, thanks a lot all for the input. Much appreciated and some really useful info here. Zed.  You have no idea how close it came, there is a bit of a sapling that is very resilient to being hacked down every month or so in front of the car, so there is often some shrub cuttings for some Fawlty-esque rage. re. cam pulleys, I am running standard and standard timing marks, with the intention of getting some verniers when I went to get it mapped properly. dickie Thanks! I will check this out, this is definitely the point at which I start to get a little out of my depth. Like everything though it's about just being logical and realising everything in front of you is simpler than it seems. This is useful! I have mostly been using the "dans ITB base map from the ME repository, switched to the standard map for a sanity check more than anything! Also will get some more plugs on order today- Which plugs did you end up using? I did wonder if now the comp etc. is higher if it might be struggling. dadbif I just used inline spark testers to be fair, so I haven't physically seen the spark! Will check this with my new start from scratch approach. wannabe , warpspeed , noobie Thanks guys, the timing has been an issue, it was a tooth out to start with. I have checked this a couple of times now, and I set it up using a cam locking tool as mentioned! I have a new HG, an injector seal kit and soon plugs on order. Head will come off, sort the coolant leak and really time everything up and refresh everything. I am hopeful  now that maybe, just maybe it will be running before the end of lockdown... Again- thanks all! |
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Tom
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Post by Tom on Nov 2, 2020 8:56:47 GMT
If it worked before the head work and cam change, but doesn't now, I would assume there's a problem with the installation. The first thing I would check would be wiring loom installation, especially grounds on the injector loom, ignition system and main engine ground. Next would be ECU sensors, i.e. map sensor, speed sensor, and temp sensors. Make sure they read sensible values static and while cranking. Then, as already suggested, check the ignition timing. Fix the timing in the ECU ignition map (10° BTDC) and check with a timing lamp. If that all checks out it's either a ECU calibration issue, or a mechanical problem. A compression test would probably rule out mechanical issues. For ECU cal, either read up and play with the settings yourself, or if you can take logs, purchase some remote tuning. Blimey, I didn't even notice I'd hit 2 pages! Again, thanks! Earths was one of my first thoughts actually, I did go round and check these, but again wouldn't rule it out! I will once again be checking all of this upon re-installationg Sensors do all appear to be reading sensible values in software, which is encouraging. Timing is set with a lamp and appears to read 10deg on cranking on ECU- It does seem to advance quite a lot when cranking though. Comp test went well (The reason the head came off in the first place was a failed comp test which ended up being heavily coked up valve seats from an overly rich turbo map. Remote tuning is on the cards for sure, though ideally I would like to get it to a RR! If anyone knows of anyone in the south with a RR I can go to next month please give me a shout! |
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Post by FFS Corders on Nov 2, 2020 16:39:45 GMT
Skuzzle's new place is a good bet for you, it's Demec Car Services link |
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Post by wannabe on Nov 3, 2020 11:11:50 GMT
Skuzzle's new place is a good bet for you, it's Demec Car Services linkIs it just me or does that link just re-open this page?  Did you mean to post this link?? canoervices.com EDIT: LOL Swear filter doesn't like the fact it has the string 'a r s e' in it? Should be services.com but remove the space  EDIT: Ok, that's weird - now it won't show the first part, even though there's no swear words... I am wondering if there is something that has happened that I'm not aware of!  |
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Post by dadbif on Nov 3, 2020 12:06:52 GMT
It’s not you, link is duff
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Post by Zed. on Nov 3, 2020 12:16:47 GMT
Skuzzle's new place is a good bet for you, it's Demec Car Services linkIs it just me or does that link just re-open this page? Lol... yup. Swear filter doesn't like the fact it has the string 'a r s e' in it? Should be services.com but remove the space EDIT: Ok, that's weird - now it won't show the first part, even though there's no swear words... I am wondering if there is something that has happened that I'm not aware of! the swear filter was setup by a child hence problems sharing info  try writing F uckin BMW
Rich. |
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Tom
Chats A Bit
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Post by Tom on Nov 3, 2020 14:30:56 GMT
Right-o I think I have got to the bottom of this Demec Car Services .com Without the spaces. This is where Skuzzle is now? Website is very traditional MOT garage! It is pretty local though which is ideal. |
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Post by FFS Corders on Nov 3, 2020 15:06:46 GMT
Yes that went badly Demec Car Services, I'm sure they can do canoes or kayaks too if you ask nicely |
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Post by boggissimo on Nov 4, 2020 14:36:12 GMT
I use 2 adjustable spanners to position them then clamp the spanners 'handles' togther (where they cross) with a Mole grips  - I'm probably not tho only one to do this and I'm old so have a real UK made 'Mole' grip (made in Newport, Monmouth ) Rich. I used one of those locking tools from MX5Parts: www.mx5parts.co.uk/camshaft-locking-tool-mk1-25-p-3348.htmlWas pretty nifty, but does allow a bit of movement in each cam! I didn't have a mole grip and only had one spanner in each size... lol I got a 3-D printed one off ebay. I had it mounted between the cam gears and tried to undo one of them with a big breaker bar...the plastic 3-D printed thing disintegrated!
So then I got out the adjustable spanners...the old ways are sometimes the best!
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Post by wannabe on Nov 4, 2020 23:08:13 GMT
I got a 3-D printed one off ebay. I had it mounted between the cam gears and tried to undo one of them with a big breaker bar...the plastic 3-D printed thing disintegrated! So then I got out the adjustable spanners...the old ways are sometimes the best! lol I've wondered how strong all this 3D printed metal stuff is - it's very clever but does it have strength?? |
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Tom
Chats A Bit
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Post by Tom on Nov 7, 2020 23:12:00 GMT
Well, well, well, update time!
After a slow week awaiting delivery of a modicum of fresh bits today I whipped the head back off, changed head gasket to a significantly improved item, injector seals, ht leads, fresh and gapped plugs and I solved the coolant leak on the re-route with a shed load of silicone, ptfe and fresh gaskets.
Stuck the 1.6 itb basemap on from the me221 repository and recalibrate the tps after fiddling with throttle cable tension... It fired!
Car now runs but absolutely will not idle, also has a little rev hang. Big progress!
Does anyone have any input on the ITB set up? My observations are as follows:
Pedal travel is very short due to the diameter of the throttle pulley? This appears to just be something people love with..
The above seems to make small throttle inputs tricky, also seems to cause some issues with the TPS calibration and the ecu readings.
Balancing the individual butterflies is hard! Particularly with the idle..
Number one specifically seems to have a habit of chucking the odd bit of fire back out of the TB.. How abnormal is this?
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Post by Zed. on Nov 7, 2020 23:50:32 GMT
Balancing the individual butterflies is hard! if you have 'ballance-pipes' from each throttle area then disconnect & plug them, makes ballancing so much easier as you're not trying to account for all cylinders! personally I wouldn't bother with any kind of idle-stability-valve and just use the old-fashoned throttlestop adjustment for tickover dickie has fitted the an oem Mazda throttlecable quadrant to his gsxr itb's so it has the same pedal / butterfly ratio as standard (more progressive than motorcycles on/off type) Rich. |
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Post by warpspeed on Nov 8, 2020 0:16:55 GMT
One way to fix a pedal travel problem on any throttle body conversion, is to adapt an original MX5 throttle pulley to the new throttle body. All throttle bodies require very nearly the same opening angle (usually about 87 degrees).
Sometimes this is dead easy, and sometimes its a bit less straightforward and requires a bit of ingenuity, but its usually the simplest solution.
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)”
You have no idea how close it came, there is a bit of a sapling that is very resilient to being hacked down every month or so in front of the car, so there is often some shrub cuttings for some Fawlty-esque rage.
now that maybe, just maybe it will be running before the end of lockdown...
- I'm probably not tho only one to do this 
le sigh