Tom
Chats A Bit
Posts: 218 
|
Post by Tom on Nov 16, 2020 11:14:27 GMT
Here we have one mazda cable pulley attached to the ITBs, was actually a bit of a pain, had to weld the centre hole up and re-drill and file it to fit snuggly on there, remove some bits, and add a tab to locate the spring on. Car is slowly coming back to life. I'm pretty sure the timing is right-ish now as it runs fairly okay, it is however firing back out the TBs from time to time which is disconcerting, is anyone able to offer any insight as to why this might be? Obviously there's unburnt fuel when the inlet valve is opening, which suggests timing to me. If it were that far out though surely it wouldn't run as well as it does?!  |
|
|
|
Post by Zed. on Nov 16, 2020 12:03:18 GMT
timing, badly seated valves or sticky valves in their guides can all be causes of farting back through the intake, is it only on low-speed idle or randomly when revving? nice adapting of the quadrant  Rich. |
|
|
|
Post by onepaintedman on Feb 15, 2021 14:47:48 GMT
Just started an almost identical thread. Got exactly the same starting problems with my supercharged car  |
|
|
|
Post by Zed. on Feb 15, 2021 16:36:22 GMT
Dynamite?   CAS can cause lots of problems  Tom has been quiet for a bit, hope he's sorted it  Rich. |
|
Tom
Chats A Bit
Posts: 218
|
Post by Tom on Mar 2, 2021 20:28:13 GMT
I'm alive! I just tend to get distracted, this time it was knocking walls down and making the kitchen a bit bigger..
I digress, progress was made!
As the weather got colder it became even less willing to start..
The remedy? Remove the plugs, clean thoroughly and try again, praying it starts within a few cranks..
Of course this is not a real remedy, the real remedy came in the form of taking the time to learn my way (loosely) around target AFR and VE tables to stop the car trying to run at about 7:1 at startup and idle.
After 10mins of fiddling it now fires on the button and idles around 13:1.
Substantially more tweaking required, but fingers crossed now I might even get an MOT next month.
Thanks for the concern though š
|
|
|
|
Post by howardb66 on Mar 3, 2021 9:11:43 GMT
Tom if need a RR recommendation, I was impressed by Dan at BlackCat just North of Goodwood.
|
|
Tom
Chats A Bit
Posts: 218
|
Post by Tom on Mar 8, 2021 15:59:11 GMT
Okay, back again...
AFR is now good upon trying to start but it just cranks...
Clutching at straws slightly, has anyone ever found issues with needing battery with a bit more juice after upping the CR?
Also with TPS as my primary I am mapping VE of TPS/RPM, I am assuming this is fine?
|
|
|
|
Post by martiny on Mar 8, 2021 18:26:40 GMT
Might help to reduce the plug gaps if that's the problem and low volts are preventing ignition. Higher cylinder pressure does need higher volts to spark (which is why failing leads tend to show up as misfire when you open the throttle) so I suppose higher compression will have the same effect. I'd re-gap the plugs to about 0.7-0.8mm and take the opportunity to carefully clean the leads and coilpacks with WD-40 and a rag to stop HT leaking away.
|
|
|
|
Post by Zed. on Mar 8, 2021 20:01:20 GMT
has anyone ever found issues with needing battery with a bit more juice after upping the CR? a failing startermotor will consume a lot of power, you can run a pair of batteries with one connected to power the startermotor and the other in the 'normal' position.. another thing worth checking is the earth wiring, the battery earth go's to the body then the ppf by the diff, this connection commonly fails so the engine is earthed via the small 'earth' strap from the rear of the cylinderhead by the heaterpipes if you've already checked these then ignore me  Rich. |
|
|
|
Post by dickie on Mar 10, 2021 20:50:26 GMT
A later starter motor is a good upgrade as they are smaller lighter and more powerfull. My high compression ITB 1994 Eunos starts fine on its original starter motor.
|
|
Tom
Chats A Bit
Posts: 218
|
Post by Tom on Apr 21, 2021 7:00:50 GMT
Fun fact. The car still won't start. It's even back on the standard inlet now in the hope of curing any problems in that area. Genuinely at a loss now, it has fuel as I've watched it pee out under pressure when one of the injector seals pinched. It has spark as I've now tested this several times, and it definitely has air.
It will crank forever. I would normally at this point assume timing, but A. I've checked the timing ~5 times and B. The bloody thing starts and runs wonderfully on odd occasions.
Pretty sure fire is the answer at this point.
|
|
|
|
Post by Zed. on Apr 21, 2021 9:23:44 GMT
Pretty sure fire is the answer at this point. sometimes stupid question but... tried bridging / hotwiring the ignition switch wiring? Rich. |
|
|
|
Post by wannabe on Apr 21, 2021 11:41:49 GMT
Did I ask previously, I can't remember - has it got an immobiliser?
Although that wouldn't give spark+fuel if it died...
|
|
