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Post by wannabe on Dec 7, 2022 13:08:03 GMT
Genuine 1970s super-rich start up Just need to push the choke in once it's warmed up
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Post by dadbif on Dec 7, 2022 21:34:05 GMT
Itβs only a bit of condensation.
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Post by Bilbo on Dec 9, 2022 2:26:01 GMT
Genuine 1970s super-rich start up Just need to push the choke in once it's warmed up Haha, I'm sure it won't be like this when it has run for longer, but it would be period correct I suppose haha. Itβs only a bit of condensation. Yeah it'll be fine, I'm not worried. It's been pretty cold in the unit the last few days, so it's all good.
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Post by Bilbo on Dec 9, 2022 2:28:27 GMT
Got the flexi welded into the midpipe yesterday, and then had a weird issue with the hazards when test starting the car again. Hazards were flashing, no shorts or anything, and there was another relay clicking very fast under the passenger side. After checking many different things, I checked the other clicking noise, it was part of the "Burglar Alarm" that is part of the factor MX-5 loom. They don't actually have an alarm, so not sure what it actually does. Anyway I got really annoyed and just unplugged it. Hazards and clicking stopped, and the car still starts, so whatever that was can stay unplugged haha. Anyway! This evening I got on with some other bits. Removed the quick connect and weird plastic fuel pipe that attaches to the fuel rail. That type of pipe wasn't suitable for permanent mounting to my fuel line. So I fitted a quick connect adapter, plugs in exactly the same but has an 8mm barb that I can attach fuel hose to. That's all done now, I just need to cut my fuel pipe to length, and get it attached. After this was done I got on with the heater box. I bought a Corsa B heater matrix. It's small, right kind of size, the pipe outlets are 16mm so they suit the MX-5 heater hoses, and will sit in the right place. I'm using the original Vauxhall blower motor, as it seems to spin freely and the motor isn't corroded at all. I wanted a specific shape box that tapers down towards the hole in the firewall, so had to make something from scratch from sheet metal I had lying around. Got some basic shapes cut and mocked up: Looked like it was going to work so started welding a roof onto it: At this point I was happy with the shape and size of the box so got it finished off: Looking good: Primed: Painted: Pretty good I reckon: Happy with this. There is no floor or rear wall on the box, as I want it to be serviceable, with easily removable heater matrix and blower motor. The plan is to re-use those large sections of rubber I removed from the engine bay in the first place. There's loads of it, it is really thick rubber sheet, I will bond it to the firewall behind the heater box, and then make a couple of L brackets to bolt the heater box down tight onto it. Will run a bead of sealer around the hole into the car, as it had from factory. Should give a nice tight seal and route all the hot air directly where I want it. I just need to wire up the blower now, get the heater hoses cut down about an inch or so, attach the heater matrix tightly into place, and put a self tapper through the mounting hole in the blower itself (I've already drilled the hole for this, fits lovely. Once those bits are sorted this is done, and should be a decent, and hopefully effective heater. Oh and I will also route a fresh air feed to the inlet where the blower is, I won't be leaving it open in the bay like that.
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Post by wannabe on Dec 11, 2022 2:40:30 GMT
Just as a thought, have you tested the output of the original blower motor? I'm not saying old cars mist up and are impossible to see out of due to weedy electric motors... ... but if it's all apart and there's a more recent, more powerful option that could replace the OEM part (MX5 blowers FTW? lol) then it could save time / hassle both now (while it's apart) and in operation (when it takes 10 minutes before you can set off to go anywhere) lol
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Post by Bilbo on Dec 12, 2022 1:46:07 GMT
Just as a thought, have you tested the output of the original blower motor? I'm not saying old cars mist up and are impossible to see out of due to weedy electric motors... ... but if it's all apart and there's a more recent, more powerful option that could replace the OEM part (MX5 blowers FTW? lol) then it could save time / hassle both now (while it's apart) and in operation (when it takes 10 minutes before you can set off to go anywhere) lol Yeah I may upgrade it at some point, but I've got it running now and on the High setting it actually spins really quite fast and seems to push a decent amount of air, so we'll see how it gets on.
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Post by Bilbo on Dec 12, 2022 1:49:20 GMT
Got a few things sorted the last few days. It was absolutely freezing and our massive Combat gas heater in the unit is a bit dodgy these days, looks like it's from the 70s so I don't like putting it on π being able to see your breath while working indoors isn't particularly fun. Stuck the 5 inside while I was working so I didn't have to defrost the windscreen, think I'll be doing that regularly now, much nicer to get into when I'm done! It's going to be cool to see both these on the driveway when it's done. I got a flexi added into the exhaust, and removed the old resonator in the midpipe, I initially left it in but it was deteriorating pretty bad inside and was dropping rust out when it was shaken, so I've binned it off. Perhaps a little louder but honestly not too bad. As I say it's super cold in there right now, so the condensation in the exhaust from all the test starts I've been doing looks bad, but the engine is perfectly fine. I've raised the midpipe a little, but I'm still not happy with it and will be making a couple more modifications to it to raise it an inch or so. When that's done I just need to weld a hanger onto the backbox and the exhaust system is done. I've routed the fuel line behind the engine, under the clutch master, and over to the fuel rail side. I removed the unsuitable plastic pipe and quick connect on the rail, and fitted a quick connect - 8mm barb adaptor, and attached conventional 8mm fuel hose to it. The fuel line has been cut to size and I've flared the end. It's all connected up now, and mounted to the top of the chassis rail on a U bracket so the fuel line is nice and secure. I've checked the routing and the line doesn't rub or come close to touching the body or engine at any point, so I'm happy it's safe. I've also added some insulating hose over the fuel line on the exhaust side. It's far enough away from the exhaust to not be an issue, but just for peace of mind really. The hose clamps in the boot have also been replaced, everything is now secured with decent jubilees, and after another test start there are zero fuel leaks! Very pleased, I was getting sick of getting my gloves saturated with freezing cold fuel constantly π I've also addressed the speedo cable. My mate got the cable driven version off of his mk1 5 he's breaking and gave me it, as the electric version I had was not suitable for the Vauxhall speedo gauge, which is of course cable driven. I cut the plastic gauge end off of the MX-5 cable, and cut the crimped on end off of the Vauxhall cable. I then crimped and bonded the Vauxhall end onto the MX-5 cable, and much to my surprise the MX-5 cable itself is the exact same size square shape as the Vauxhall one was. It slots into the cluster hole perfectly, which is great and saved me a job adapting it. My Dremel chuck has died and doesn't tighten, so I had to do this cutting extremely carefully with a grinder π it went perfectly and no cable damage caused. This cable is a fair bit shorter than the Vauxhall one was, so I am not going to route it through the passenger side bung as the original did, I'll fully bung that hole off and sort another routing. Hard to test it by spinning the cog by hand as you can't spin it fast enough or for long enough, but the speedo needle does move slightly when operated by hand, so I'm happy it is engaging and will work, though we'll see how far off it reads, this cog is likely a 4.1 or 4.2 ratio version as it's off an early mk1 5. If it's miles out I'll buy a 3.9 ratio cog, or a 3.6 if available to get it closer. Also got the heater fan all wired up, and it works on the original 2 speed switch. The fan hadn't run in 25 years so it was a bit screamy at first, but after a little spray it loosened up and spins perfectly. Step 1 on the switch is quite slow, and step 2 is really quite fast, so I'm hoping it'll be effective. I'm just in the process of sealing the box up now to route all the air through the vents inside the car. Also welded a couple of little brackets onto the heater box so I can secure it into the car. I have a "Roadworthy" list, still a fair few things to do, but that's a few of the more time consuming jobs out of the way. This being ready before Christmas is pretty unlikely now, but it's really not going to be long, and I'd rather get it right than rush and bodge the last few important jobs. I'd rather have a good car later than planned, than a bodge job sooner.
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Post by wannabe on Dec 12, 2022 3:51:01 GMT
Awesome progress Are you going to paint the entire underside and inside of the sills/arches with that tough black paint and then waxoyl or similar? lol
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Post by Bilbo on Dec 12, 2022 19:46:17 GMT
Awesome progress Are you going to paint the entire underside and inside of the sills/arches with that tough black paint and then waxoyl or similar? lol Yeah bit by bit I will fully strip and seal everything up, for now I'll just get it on the road, and can do that in sections over time. It'll need more welding for sure, some bits I'm not 100% happy with but aren't bad enough to fail an MOT yet.
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Post by Bilbo on Dec 13, 2022 12:30:27 GMT
Ok so I've come down with some absolutely horrendous flu type thing, which is absolutely lovely. Bit annoying as got a lot left to do on the car, going to have to concede this isn't getting done by Christmas now, which is a shame. Oh well, I've updated my to do list to get it roadworthy: Front brake lines Connect rear brake line Wiper and washer wiring Washer bottle Rad mounts Rad hoses Solder up TPS and IACV wiring Fit air filter Diff inspect, oil and gasket Raise midpipe Relocate gearstick Sidelight bulbs Front fog bulb Tail/brake light bulb Custom prop Fit box mount Bleed brakes Braided clutch line Bleed clutch Route speedo cable through car Plug in box plugs (reverse sensor etc.) Weld rear sill wall (offside) MX5 steering hub Wire up air horns Steering rack boot Adjust toe to somewhat sane alignment Front wheel bearing caps Adjust handbrake Battery tray Re-route/insulate main power loom Fit driver seat Sort throttle cable Engine oil Box oil Coolant Bung various unused firewall/floor holes Torque wrench check everything This should get it MOT ready, I think that is everything. Most of it fairly small jobs really, and realistically this is finished early January now as I'm fairly busy over the next couple of weeks. I'd also like to fit a rev counter and some speakers, but these aren't 100% needed for road use of course. I was also considering some kind of retro duckbill style front lip, maybe a mk1 Golf lip. The front bumper is just very underbitey I think, looks like it needs something to make it a bit more aggressive. Anyway I found a guy on Instagram who had some nice looking E30 lip on his and started chatting to him. Turns out he used to have a mk1 Golf lip on his. I quite like it (sorry for awful screenshot quality): I have been thinking of black pressed plates too. Technically the car is 4 months too new for them to be legal, as .gov site states Jan 1980 cut-off now, but I may get some anyway, see if I like them. I also have a really old AA metal badge lying around that I've had for years that I might fit somewhere, though I think this could annoy classic car people as I believe the cut off date they were produced was 1967 haha.
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Post by scottydugg on Dec 13, 2022 14:53:31 GMT
Font lip looks good, will really offset the beige as well!
Progress looks good, you're making it look easy (I still think you'll turbo/supercharge it eventually).
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Post by Bilbo on Dec 13, 2022 17:26:10 GMT
Font lip looks good, will really offset the beige as well! Progress looks good, you're making it look easy (I still think you'll turbo/supercharge it eventually). Right ok this time I really must put my foot down and insist that a red car cannot possibly be called beige π I won't be respraying it for a while if I bother at all, you are welcome to call it beige when it is Toyota Ivory (Cream) π And no bloody turbos either haha, this is a reliable daily!
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Post by thruxton on Dec 13, 2022 17:30:07 GMT
Everything looks beige when you get to my ageβ¦. Trust me on this.
Regards. Rich.
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Post by scottydugg on Dec 13, 2022 18:05:21 GMT
I joke, I do like the red in all honesty. High compression ITB's it is then!
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Post by dadbif on Dec 13, 2022 21:46:09 GMT
I joke, I do like the red in all honesty. High compression ITB's it is then! With beige intakes..,
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