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Post by scottydugg on Jun 24, 2020 8:22:59 GMT
Alternator belt off, wiring harness labelled up/unplugged, water-pump pulley off, harmonic damper off (finally! what a pain).
I've got the Jass crank locking tool, so will try that out, hopefully it works.
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Post by scottydugg on Jun 25, 2020 8:49:58 GMT
Got a decent run at it again: crank bolt and gear both off, the Jass tool really made it an easy job considering how much grief it gives most, the harmonic damper was worst bit so far. Just to check what's connected at the back of the head and we'll be ready for lift off.
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Post by Zed. on Jun 25, 2020 9:54:07 GMT
found a set of Enkei Formula W-1 alloys, think they might look nice on my white '90 Eunos resto project  Rich. |
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Post by V6 on Jun 25, 2020 16:52:31 GMT
Swopped the battery over and went for a drive.
My Torsen LSD has started to whine a bit. What oil do you recommend? As it's hot, do you think it wants some ice and a slice in there too?
Cheers
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Post by dadbif on Jun 25, 2020 17:52:00 GMT
EP180
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Post by Zed. on Jun 25, 2020 18:52:50 GMT
Swopped the battery over and went for a drive. My Torsen LSD has started to whine a bit. What oil do you recommend? As it's hot, do you think it wants some ice and a slice in there too? Cheers matters not what oil you use, once its noisy it's telling you it needs bearings............ unless it's empty then:o Rich. |
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Post by V6 on Jun 25, 2020 20:55:16 GMT
Thanks guys. Isn't it a nightmare job to set it all up, once you take it out? Or is is ok to swap the bearings and not mess it up?
Or should I just buy another entire unit and swop them over?
Do you think changing the oil is a waste of time then?
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Post by martiny on Jun 26, 2020 16:07:48 GMT
There's an instruction in the garage section of Miata net on how to set it up after you change the bearings. It's an easy job with the right tools, but the right tools are a dial gauge (not a problem) and an 8" micrometer (kinda specialised). I got an old 8" micrometer off eBay and you're welcome to borrow it if that helps. No idea about replacing the bearings themselves though as that's out of my experience. All I did was strip a Fuji down to pick out the broken bits then put it all back together. <edit> Here's that link: www.miata.net/garage/diff_rr.htmlWhat that guide doesn't cover is setting up the pinion again if you remove it, but there's no need to disturb the pinion while removing the rest of the diff innards. As it happens that procedure involves fitting a new crush tube and then tightening the pinion nut until it reaches the point where the pinion requires a particular torque to rotate it. IIRC it's 1 ft lb. (That doesn't need a particular fancy tool as you can rig up a light stick or cane attached to the pinion, sticking out 1 foot to the side, and hang a 1 lb weight on the end. Hey presto - one foot pound. When it gets to the point where the weight just won't turn the pinion, you're done.) |
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Post by Zed. on Jun 26, 2020 17:44:39 GMT
Thanks guys. Isn't it a nightmare job to set it all up, once you take it out? Or is is ok to swap the bearings and not mess it up? Or should I just buy another entire unit and swop them over? Do you think changing the oil is a waste of time then? I've some diff related wanderings in my thread, strip-down of a Fuji... mighty5s.com/post/40014/threadand bearings... mighty5s.com/post/40143/threadthen a build (Kia Sportage sourced 4.778:1 gears) into a 7" mx5 diff... mighty5s.com/post/40218/threadonwards.... There's an instruction in the garage section of Miata net on how to set it up after you change the bearings. It's an easy job with the right tools, but the right tools are a dial gauge (not a problem) and an 8" micrometer (kinda specialised). I got an old 8" micrometer off eBay and you're welcome to borrow it if that helps. No idea about replacing the bearings themselves though as that's out of my experience. All I did was strip a Fuji down to pick out the broken bits then put it all back together. <edit> Here's that link: www.miata.net/garage/diff_rr.htmlWhat that guide doesn't cover is setting up the pinion again if you remove it, but there's no need to disturb the pinion while removing the rest of the diff innards. As it happens that procedure involves fitting a new crush tube and then tightening the pinion nut until it reaches the point where the pinion requires a particular torque to rotate it. IIRC it's 1 ft lb. (That doesn't need a particular fancy tool as you can rig up a light stick or cane attached to the pinion, sticking out 1 foot to the side, and hang a 1 lb weight on the end. Hey presto - one foot pound. When it gets to the point where the weight just won't turn the pinion, you're done.) sorta +1 but you can also use 'The Force' (feel & experience) when setting bearing preload & gear mesh  Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jun 28, 2020 0:11:16 GMT
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Post by dadbif on Jun 28, 2020 7:43:24 GMT
The shallowness of the sump is proportional to the depth of the pockets required to achieve it.
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Post by Zed. on Jun 28, 2020 9:27:34 GMT
The shallowness of the sump is proportional to the depth of the pockets required to achieve it. correct  although I'm not interested in ground clearance, more the reliable oil delivery & it's about the same cost as a boundry pump  Rich. |
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Post by dadbif on Jun 28, 2020 12:18:50 GMT
But far more plumbing 🙄
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Post by Zed. on Jun 28, 2020 13:15:00 GMT
But far more plumbing 🙄 I've already got an oilcooler & remote filter head for the car so not much extra, question is 'where to site the oil tank' Rich. |
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Post by dadbif on Jun 28, 2020 13:51:18 GMT
I’m sure you’ll find somewhere....
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le sigh