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Post by FFS Corders on Jun 28, 2020 14:06:05 GMT
Double checked it's the right thread...
Yesterday, bought some very used Toyo R888R tyres, should be good for Mighty5s trackday 2021, possibly a second, depending if I remember to put the most worn tyre on the right of the car..
Then sold my ME221 gen 1 ECU
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Post by Zed. on Jun 28, 2020 20:20:55 GMT
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Post by FFS Corders on Jun 28, 2020 20:36:09 GMT
I'm sure I'd have got on with it similar to the ms2. It's just my local knowledgeable mx5 owners are all on megasquirt so it made sense for me to go with something I'll have the most support. If they all used ME221 of have gone for that. That and the me221 was Ā£200 more than the ms2 so so got more cash back when selling
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Post by scottydugg on Jun 29, 2020 9:27:22 GMT
Messed up fitting the front crank seal, just ordered another one and the Jass tool for fitting it.It was either this or order multiple seals, but only one in stock. I don't want to have to go back in there for a while. Started swapping everything over to the new head also.
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Post by Zed. on Jun 29, 2020 21:29:38 GMT
found a set of Enkei Formula W-1 alloys, think they might look nice on my white '90 Eunos resto project Rich. according to ebay, I've won them will message seller & hopefully collect tomorow then strip tyres off & sandblast before inspection Rich.
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Post by scottydugg on Jun 30, 2020 9:15:10 GMT
Engine loom fitted to the head, I tried reusing the mk2 plastic harness tray but the mk1 loom doesn't quite fit. Other than refit sensors, rear coolant housing, exhaust studs, there's not too much left for the head.
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Post by V6 on Jun 30, 2020 17:03:48 GMT
Good to meet you today Howard & Mark Torsen LSD back home. New seals ordered. Car booked in to get it swapped out, up on a ramp. I may recondition the old one at my leisure and keep it as a spare with the car.
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Post by howardb66 on Jun 30, 2020 19:41:03 GMT
Good to meet you too Mr V6. Thanks for the tip about the door bars, something else added to the to do list. š¤
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Post by Zed. on Jun 30, 2020 20:03:33 GMT
found a set of Enkei Formula W-1 alloys, think they might look nice on my white '90 Eunos resto project Rich. according to ebay, I've won them will message seller & hopefully collect tomorow then strip tyres off & sandblast before inspection Rich. collected these. more junk Rich.
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Post by scottydugg on Jul 1, 2020 8:44:31 GMT
Replacement "replacement" front crank seal fitted. Going to clean the block with a wooden spatula and piston tops with the revlimiter guide HEREI've a tap for clearing out the head bolt threads also.
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Post by wannabe on Jul 1, 2020 9:10:55 GMT
Replacement "replacement" front crank seal fitted. Going to clean the block with a wooden spatula and piston tops with the revlimiter guide HEREI've a tap for clearing out the head bolt threads also. I used the slightly pointed end of a wooden handle on a basting brush on my piston tops - seemed to be about the right profile for the valve cut outs! I also veeeeeerrrrry carefully used a dremel with a small pointed attachment on what seemed to be calcium or limescale build-up in the cut-outs (!!), as it simply would not move with the wooden handle end. Did the job, but I made sure to suck up all the broken-up crap with a hoover. I also almost learned the hard way that the pistons should be at the top of their movement range when doing it (duh!!!) after slightly nicking one of the bores while being dumb and trying it when the piston was at the bottom... (What a genius ) Still runs so, er, hopefully no long term death will ensue.
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Post by scottydugg on Jul 1, 2020 9:19:37 GMT
Replacement "replacement" front crank seal fitted. Going to clean the block with a wooden spatula and piston tops with the revlimiter guide HEREI've a tap for clearing out the head bolt threads also. I used the slightly pointed end of a wooden handle on a basting brush on my piston tops - seemed to be about the right profile for the valve cut outs! I also veeeeeerrrrry carefully used a dremel with a small pointed attachment on what seemed to be calcium or limescale build-up in the cut-outs (!!), as it simply would not move with the wooden handle end. Did the job, but I made sure to suck up all the broken-up crap with a hoover. I also almost learned the hard way that the pistons should be at the top of their movement range when doing it (duh!!!) after slightly nicking one of the bores while being dumb and trying it when the piston was at the bottom... (What a genius ) Still runs so, er, hopefully no long term death will ensue. How did you clean the top of the block? This mopar cleaning stuff seems pretty good, I used some on the head before strip down. I'm just going to follow the revlimiter guide to the letter, I just don't have a full can. If all else fails I'll try your method above (maybe skip the dremel bit!). When putting the head back on did you do it on your own? lifting it off was ok, but putting it down gently, I think I'll need a second pair of hands.
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gbuk
Chats A Bit
Posts: 130
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Post by gbuk on Jul 1, 2020 12:14:09 GMT
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Post by V6 on Jul 1, 2020 13:26:15 GMT
So... sent off all my forms, receipts, V5C to DVLA ages ago. Never heard back.
Phone them up... nope. Just an answer phone message saying we are not answering any calls (due to the corona hoax).
Sent them an email online. No reply. Obviously.
This country is a prarrie canoe hole run by morons who watch too much TV.
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Post by wannabe on Jul 1, 2020 13:32:17 GMT
How did you clean the top of the block? This mopar cleaning stuff seems pretty good, I used some on the head before strip down. I'm just going to follow the revlimiter guide to the letter, I just don't have a full can. If all else fails I'll try your method above (maybe skip the dremel bit!). When putting the head back on did you do it on your own? lifting it off was ok, but putting it down gently, I think I'll need a second pair of hands. I (carefully!) used one of these for the gasket, although mine fortunately came off pretty much in one piece - it was useful for the light surface rust that appeared later, though...: www.moss-europe.co.uk/scraper-razor-mtr471104.htmlI think the best technique is to drag it towards you, as pushing away risks digging it in. It's a total PITA trying to avoid getting scraped off stuff into the holes in the block face! (I found the hoover useful for sucking that crap out of the way as well.) I managed to lift the head on myself, without the intake attached, although I can't guarantee I haven't put some circles in the head face around the collets / dowel pins lol (Collets: www.autolinkmx5.com/cylinder-head-locating-dowel--pin-genuine-mazda-mx-5-b63010306-5268-p.asp ) Zed.. was awesome and kind enough to make me some headbolts with no head on, to help guide the block down correctly, and also a thread cleaner bolt for the holes for the headbolts which I seriously think meant I could put it all back together - there was a lot of crap in the threads that I wouldn't have been able to clear out otherwise!! The other option is to use some sticks or doweling rod to guide you in, as Zed was good enough to recommend mighty5s.com/post/40953/threadPutting the head and intake together would have been much easier off the car, due to the PITA access to the bolts, but getting both onto the car together on my own would have been back-breaking! Two of you might well be do-able, but don't forget you'd have to work around the bonnet support strut if you've still got the bonnet on and want to be one person each side of the bay.
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