The DIY Head Gasket thread - info collation + help request!
Apr 7, 2020 19:33:25 GMT
howardb66, lowender, and 3 more like this
Post by wannabe on Apr 7, 2020 19:33:25 GMT
So... it lives...
Battery cranked straight off, amazingly, but it had been disconnected.
Sounded like a bag of spanners for about 15 minutes till the tappets sorted themselves out, and I'm still not convinced they are all operating as they should - it's somewhat noisy at the top end and the whole engine rocks (but then it did that before and was not exactly quiet at the top before either).
Oil pressure on the gauge is a tiny amount over zero at idle but then it used to do that as well - I did attempt to clean the oil pressure sensor connector and gave it a good wiggle but it's not getting any higher. I'll have to clean the connector again and see if I can improve the connection. (Or just add a sliver of tin foil into the connector that pushes on??)
I replaced the Cam Angle Sensor at the previous position when I put it back together so I checked the timing after starting it. It was retarded a few degrees so I twisted the Cam Angle Sensor till it centred on 10 degrees. (It tends to jump around each side of it, but I presume that's the slighty lumpy cams?) I forgot to bridge GND and TEN on the diagnostics port before twisting it, though... so I presume I'll have to revert the CAS to the original position, bridge the connections, then set the new timing again?
It still stinks out of the exhaust, haha, but not as bad as it did, so I'm hopeful it will pass the emissions test (fingers crossed).
Rear brakes were stuck on but some revs and clutch got them unseized. The discs look like I recovered them from the Titanic but I think it should come off if I ride the brakes / handbrake for a while on the way to the garage/MOT place. Presumably the pads will be fine.
There appears to be a slight film of oil on the water at the top of the rad but I think it's had that since the head gasket went and was fixed ages ago.
I need to swap the LED headlight units because the MOT place said they wouldn't pass next (this) time so I'll put the utter prarrie canoee OEM Wagner(?) units back in and not drive after dark.
It probably needs new wipers as well, but at least they're not too much money to waste if it subsequently fails the MOT catastrophically on emissions and/or rust.
I was going to do the oil change but I can't get a trolley jack underneath it to get to the front subframe and lift both sides at the same time, and I can't get axle stands under it one side after the other because the jacking point is too small to fit the standard scissor jack and then add the axle stand... I'll get the garage to do it as he's cheap (for round here) so it won't cost much.
The tyres were remarkably only about 6 PSI down on three of them and about 15 PSI down on one, so pumped those up and hopefully won't have flatspots...
The steering rack should get through the MOT but I'll get it changed for the one with less play in it afterwards.
Other than that, the list of things to do remains long... arch rust, windscreen frame rust, leaking boot (NFI where it's coming in), sagging/floppy rear roof bar (I'm guessing the chassis has been bent in a smash in the past, going from the different colour rear quarter), door speakers that don't work, headrest speaker that is blown, alignment, new seat and frame so I actually fit in it with the roof up (and, ideally, aligned with the steering wheel instead of being offset)...
But that can wait. MOT and drive it comes first.
Battery cranked straight off, amazingly, but it had been disconnected.
Sounded like a bag of spanners for about 15 minutes till the tappets sorted themselves out, and I'm still not convinced they are all operating as they should - it's somewhat noisy at the top end and the whole engine rocks (but then it did that before and was not exactly quiet at the top before either).
Oil pressure on the gauge is a tiny amount over zero at idle but then it used to do that as well - I did attempt to clean the oil pressure sensor connector and gave it a good wiggle but it's not getting any higher. I'll have to clean the connector again and see if I can improve the connection. (Or just add a sliver of tin foil into the connector that pushes on??)
I replaced the Cam Angle Sensor at the previous position when I put it back together so I checked the timing after starting it. It was retarded a few degrees so I twisted the Cam Angle Sensor till it centred on 10 degrees. (It tends to jump around each side of it, but I presume that's the slighty lumpy cams?) I forgot to bridge GND and TEN on the diagnostics port before twisting it, though... so I presume I'll have to revert the CAS to the original position, bridge the connections, then set the new timing again?
It still stinks out of the exhaust, haha, but not as bad as it did, so I'm hopeful it will pass the emissions test (fingers crossed).
Rear brakes were stuck on but some revs and clutch got them unseized. The discs look like I recovered them from the Titanic but I think it should come off if I ride the brakes / handbrake for a while on the way to the garage/MOT place. Presumably the pads will be fine.
There appears to be a slight film of oil on the water at the top of the rad but I think it's had that since the head gasket went and was fixed ages ago.
I need to swap the LED headlight units because the MOT place said they wouldn't pass next (this) time so I'll put the utter prarrie canoee OEM Wagner(?) units back in and not drive after dark.
It probably needs new wipers as well, but at least they're not too much money to waste if it subsequently fails the MOT catastrophically on emissions and/or rust.
I was going to do the oil change but I can't get a trolley jack underneath it to get to the front subframe and lift both sides at the same time, and I can't get axle stands under it one side after the other because the jacking point is too small to fit the standard scissor jack and then add the axle stand... I'll get the garage to do it as he's cheap (for round here) so it won't cost much.
The tyres were remarkably only about 6 PSI down on three of them and about 15 PSI down on one, so pumped those up and hopefully won't have flatspots...
The steering rack should get through the MOT but I'll get it changed for the one with less play in it afterwards.
Other than that, the list of things to do remains long... arch rust, windscreen frame rust, leaking boot (NFI where it's coming in), sagging/floppy rear roof bar (I'm guessing the chassis has been bent in a smash in the past, going from the different colour rear quarter), door speakers that don't work, headrest speaker that is blown, alignment, new seat and frame so I actually fit in it with the roof up (and, ideally, aligned with the steering wheel instead of being offset)...
But that can wait. MOT and drive it comes first.