|
Post by myothercarsa2cv on Feb 14, 2017 0:59:12 GMT
The boost gauge is playing up again and reading in the range of 0 to 1bar rather than -1 to 1bar, so at idle when it should be showing vacuum, it just shows 0. Rubbish. Nothing wrong with the hose this time so I decided to re solder the unit just in case it was that. Now that's what I call a Monday night. Popped it back on the car and it didn't change anything, so back to the drawing board sadly. Looks like I'll need a new sensor but at £100+ this is not ideal. I did however buy this: So at least I'll know what's going on. The plan is to fit this in the glove box for purposes of setting up the new manual boost controller which is in the post. The Gizzmo EBC gets poor reviews and since I don't use the many options it offers I thought I'd sell that on and go simple. Watch this space...
|
|
|
Post by josho on Feb 15, 2017 11:48:41 GMT
Get GFB mad boost gauge of mighty car mods fame. its maaaaaaaaaaaaaaad
|
|
|
Post by myothercarsa2cv on Feb 16, 2017 11:08:43 GMT
Going stealth Josh. I like a clean interior Found another local with a Stagea so heading over to swap the sensors and further narrow down the issue. If I get time today I'm going to put the boost control back to standard and remove the Gizzmo. I checked and the original solenoid is still there so just a case of extracting the wiring. Fun times!
|
|
|
Post by myothercarsa2cv on Feb 16, 2017 20:11:39 GMT
Removed the Gizzmo today and reverted to stock. I hope the OE solenoid still works! Removing the wiring was surprisingly easy actually, except the solenoid connector got stuck somewhere in the firewall/dash area and now resides there for the rest of eternity. While behind the steering wheel I discovered this box: I got all excited as Dolphin R / Freeway Dolphin make loads of cool goodies for the Stagea, but it turns out it's just the parking sensors. I'll revisit that and see if there's a volume adjustment as it's ear splittingly loud at the moment! Already sold the Gizzmo by the looks of it, which is nice, and the HDi manual boost controller should be with me soon. Which is good as the vacuum lines are a bit bodged at the moment! I'll clean that up when I can. To eBay!
|
|
|
Post by myothercarsa2cv on Feb 28, 2017 8:25:26 GMT
Little update. The manual boost controller arrived, it's a really cute little item and to get ready for the install I've ordered some vacuum hose caps, and a rubber coated p-clip to make it as tidy as possible. Plan is to remove the OEM solenoid and mount the MBC on that bracket, and use the standard hose routing. The hose runs should be considerably shorter than they were with the Gizzmo which is also good. I also bought an OBD reader which according to google supports the random one-off protocol the Stagea uses. It was only cheap so we will see... As an aside, when removing the Gizzmo the previous owner/installer had hacked up the little bit of trim by your knee to fit it. Wasn't happy about that as really they only needed to drill a couple of holes. I just happened to be browsing the G35/V35 bits on eBay and it looks like the Infiniti trim is exactly the same. Fingers crossed it fits! One little issue is I've lost my garage keys which makes this a little awkward! Ironically the only tool I have is my 10mm!!!
|
|
|
Post by myothercarsa2cv on Mar 4, 2017 15:23:28 GMT
Got another toy in the post: Should allow to track just how bad my fuel consumption is 😃
|
|
|
Post by myothercarsa2cv on Mar 11, 2017 17:32:41 GMT
Today was a big day. I had the OBD reader software trial downloaded. All the parts for the manual boost controller (MBC) install were here. I'd done my research. I had a massive hangover. I started with the easy bit - plug in the OBD reader. Easy as reaching under the dash trim and slotting it on. Whatever I tried, I couldn't connect. I got bored so moved on. Next up, boost controller time. I started with this - cover off, in OEM configuration but a bit cobbled together as I didn't have all the original bits from before the electronic boost controller was installed (badly): I removed the airbox and snorkel, and, since this was a huge ballache, decided that I'd revert to the pod filter. Anyway, it's not ideal having the rad cap in the air intake! Off came vacuum hoses, the standard solenoid and the bracket - I wanted this space for the new controller. So far, everything has been 10mm! The standard configuration has the boost pressure signal for the wastegate actuator coming from just before the dump valve (left side of the first pic above). Between the intake and the actuator there is a tee that feeds the OEM solenoid, which bleeds back to the intake pre-turbo. The actuator is set at 7PSi so while it can build to 14PSi, it's slow. The new MBC deletes the bleed back in to the intake, so just restricts the boost signal to the actuator. Hopefully This means I can still have the same peak boost but with better response, fingers crossed. Anyway, the existing vacuum line from the actuator is a bit bigger than for the controller, so a reducer was used, with zipties just in case. This was all clipped back in to the OEM positions and run to where the MBC would be positioned. I had a crafty plan to use a rubber P-clip to hold the MBC to the plenum. It worked out! New hose was run from the MBC to the intake by the dump valve. Zipties just in case! Next up, boost gauge. I'd been tipped off that behind the glove box is the heater intake, which takes air from the engine bay, and that I could run the vacuum line that way. I started removing the glove box trim, all very straightforward with only a screwdriver and a gentle tug needed to remove the trim. Sure enough I found the heater intake, but also found you have to be a contortionist to get to anything! I'd have loved for the car to be at waist level at this point. Once that was in, I teed in to a vacuum line in the engine bay closest to where the hose would run. A neat little trick I learned from the Caterham days to hold hoses and pipes together but apart hopefully demonstrated below. Zipties again to save the day without you knowing! Where the line ran through the bulkhead I protected it with some leftover silicone vacuum line. Then all the trim went back on and at present the gauge just sits in the glovebox! I'll get a pod or holder at some point... I fired the car up to make sure the boost gauge was working correctly, all seemed fine, so turned off again... Forgot the MAF was still on the floor and not connected, so gave myself the dreaded check engine light. Back to the engine bay to put everything back in and make sure it's all tidy and presentable - I think I did alright! Last thing for today was putting a sticker on the boot. It's wonky I know, but it was my first attempt! Figured out how to check engine fault codes, couldn't figure out the reset, so left that for another time. All in all a busy day!
|
|
|
Post by wannabe on Mar 12, 2017 11:29:48 GMT
Good work - I am crap at getting motivated to do things to mine, and whatever I try ends up taking ages! lol
|
|
|
Post by myothercarsa2cv on Mar 18, 2017 15:28:59 GMT
Started to debadge it. No one knows what it is, no need to make it easy for them! The Scotland and GB badges came off easily. So did the letters. The sticky stuff behind the letters, less straight forward... Years of grime resided between the letters. This had me slightly worried being a white car. I unleashed the hairdryer (one of the perks of MX5 ownership is access to haircare tools) and the letters dropped off, but left the sticky pads. Not ideal. Using the hairdryer and a credit card I slowly scraped the sticky stuff off. This was tedious as hell. I then washed the area, and after drying it, unleashed detailing spray and a clay bar. A bit more elbow grease and this is where I called it a day. Not far to go but definitely needs a good polish once it's done to remove all the marks. Then it's the other side...
|
|
|
Post by myothercarsa2cv on Apr 8, 2017 13:59:24 GMT
Not much to update but it sounds like I have a front cv joint/ wheel bearing issue which manifests itself in a similar manner to a flat spot on the tyre (rotation related rumbling). I know it's not a flat spot though as it comes and goes! Should be fun getting that fixed...
|
|
|
Post by myothercarsa2cv on Apr 23, 2017 10:13:58 GMT
Well I've narrowed the rumbling down to a sticky caliper. No Japanese car is safe from this fate. Fortunately the brakes are from an X-Trail so not too expensive to get. Will need a new disc and pads too. Good news all round as CV joints and wheel bearings are a nightmare. Will book it in when I'm back from holiday! In other news I received a small package in the post from a guy in the US. He's a machinist and G35 Infiniti/Skyline enthusiast. In the past he had made some rather nice gear knobs for auto G35s, and, since the shifter looks almost the same, I thought it might work in the Stagea. Dropped him a note, and he got back to me to say he was making another batch - count me in! A couple of weeks later it arrives and it took all of three minutes to fit. It's so nicely made and is so simple and brilliant. I'll let the picture do the talking: It's made up of four pieces, a collar that grips the shifter with FOUR grub screws (not going anywhere that), a dress up collar that threads over the other collar on to the gear knob, which is billet, and a spring inside. It was just a case of working out how high the spring seat collar needed to sit and screw it all together. Pizzle. Next update I'll hopefully have a working brake, better economy and more information on a remote ECU tuning option a guy in Oz has been working on...
|
|
|
Post by myothercarsa2cv on May 17, 2017 21:31:14 GMT
Well the weather has been crap, I've been crazy busy at work, on a stag do and now sick. So I've literally done nothing I wanted to do! While moping about though I decided to do something about my inlet air temperatures. I'd read a while ago about a plenum spacer giving more low down torque, by making he runners longer. Some guys in Oz had made up a spacer as below and had good results. No dyno runs though, always a shame for the sake of a few quid. The guys had found that making it out of phenolic had reduced the temperature of the plenum - whereas before it got too hot to touch, it was now cool enough to hold even after a thrashing. Again no empirical evidence of reduced IATs but I figured it must have made a decent difference. So I was put in touch with ThermaTec, who said they would use my spare gasket as a template and knock one up for me no problem! Whoop. So that's in the post to them, more to come A much easier way to reduce IATs is by using a bigger intercooler. Fitting a bigger intercooler is actually pretty easy on the Stagea using the OE pipework, but I don't want to hack it up so I ordered me a (very) early birthday present in the form of a pipework kit (everything below minus the cooler): Can't wait for this to land, it replaces everything from just after the turbo elbow to all the way round to the BOV with shiny aluminium. No more brittle rubber or cheap plastic pipework! I'll be getting a black cooler to keep it stealth. It's starting to come together, at least the money spending bit anyway!
|
|
|
Post by myothercarsa2cv on May 19, 2017 20:52:46 GMT
My rear left brake pads disintegrated today, metal on metal is boring. So bit the bullet and ordered a new caliper, discs and pads. They arrive middle next week, so hopefully I'll have it done just in time to leave at the airport for or next trip
|
|
|
Post by myothercarsa2cv on May 25, 2017 18:44:43 GMT
Stuff arrived but don't think I'm going to get a chance to fit it all before we go away Got new discs and pads for the rear axle, a new caliper for the N/S/R, and a couple of little tools to make the job easier - a one way valve for easy bleeding, and hose clamps for minimal brake fluid loss. Whoop.
|
|
|
Post by myothercarsa2cv on May 31, 2017 13:24:49 GMT
Well the little one was having a nap so I was researching my farting issue. No not that... on partial throttle lift off the car farts. Oh yeah. It's so loud people turn around on the street to see what the hell is making such an offensive noise! This is apparently a BOV issue, so seeing as all Nissans seem to have the same fitment, and the Japanese are doing it (I think, if Google translate isn't lying!) I got some R35 BOVs. £40 for the pair, I figured I can't go wrong. If it doesn't work, I can probably move them on for the same money so no big deal. Should have the pipework soon, so I just need an intercooler and I'm ready to spanner!
|
|