ScottyDugg's Eunos (1.8)

So, any progress is progress, over the weekend I set about swapping the coil pack and disconnecting the injectors, which is a total mare with the mk2.5 inlet manifold as you've to take quite a lot off to get into them. Removed all the plugs and leads from cylinders 2, 3 & 4. It looked like the leads got really hot, when I was trying to start on the base maps dwell time (which was essentially double what it should have been). So the coil pack was suspect, so swapped it for a spare from the old oil burning engine we'd removed.

The main issue had been erratic flashing when trying to set TDC on the ECU. So hooked up with jump leads to the wife's car, all the above removed aid easier cranking and a different coil pack:
IMG_20220221_213128 by Scott Reid, on Flickr
Crap photo of a crap slow-mo video, but it's within a degree of where it should be, it's sat at +7degrees. I'd been away up at +60deg. before swapping the coil-pack. The paint mark smeared for added difficulty.

Now just need to put it all back together, unlock fixed timing and try start it. If this doesn't do it I'm back to square one!

Some more progress over the weekend, after getting the fuel pump sorted and setting TDC set (or so I thought), it was time to try get it to start.

First couple of attempts, no joy, lots of mild backfires.

It resorted to trying a random combination of crank offset to try get TDC in a location that would allow it to start, finally managed to get it to spring to life, although it ran like crap. There's a couple of reasons for this: I'd had the throttle body off to disconnect the injectors so needed to open up the idle screw, my dwell time on the IACV needed bumped up.

Hooked it up again to a secondary car with the jump leads and managed after a couple attempts to get it to start and idle without dying, checked the timing and reset the trigger offset so it's bang on 10 degrees, in the end it only needed +2 degrees.
IMG_20220305_202416 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

It's idling lean, but that can be fixed, it also jumps about a bit at idle.
(Click on to watch the video)
VID_20220305_203844 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

Couple things still need resolved: the wideband is reading the AFR correctly, but in TunerStudio it's showing a constant 25 so there is something wrong there, I've a couple things to try to resolve that so hopefully one of those works and then we can sort the idle out.

Good call, I'd tried sorting it tonight, but couldn't get it to start to confirm! Think my batteries in the way out.

Edit: in case anyone else ever has the same issue, I'd forgotten to calibrate the wideband in TunerStudio.

Keep fighting the good fight.

I hope you can get it started. Are you going to road tune yourself or use a remote service?

Couple updates since the last post, new battery arrived and fitted along with a battery isolator. Turns out it's a gel battery and you're not meant to let them sit connected for longer than a week unused. Also purchased a cheap battery charger for gel batteries, so I can leave it on trickle charge if it's going to be laid up for extended periods of time.

The starting issue, has been improved but not fixed, it'll idle just fine, but the starting is still slightly hit or miss. The tuner is offshore so I need to wait for him to come back before I can get him booked in, I could go round in circles for a long time and chase issues I've created. Anyway, once I've finished up, I'm going to try a short test drive to see how it goes.

I've started refitting the interior, I've sold the Nardi as I never really liked the silver wheel, fitting a Raid wheel that I got cheap and refurbished, I just need to refit everything I removed to fit the ECU, tidy up my vac lines and wiring also.
IMG_20220321_195158 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

With a couple parts sold, the moneys been used to get a Walbro 255 fuel pump and next I'll get some EV14's, now that the RC550's are up for sale.

Car still hasn't moved in months, hopefully get some pictures of it somewhere other than the garage with the proper camera at some stage soon, the MOT is looming the end of April now which is starting to give me the fear.
IMG_20220315_190412 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

Walbro255 arrived yesterday from BOFI, I'd already cleared out the rear for getting access to the pump. Relatively easy job, had to trim part of the pipework as the new pump is slightly taller, but the worst part was getting the fuel hoses off, with the roll bar it was a bit of a nuisance. I might change the hose now, but it's not leaking and easy enough to gain access so no rush.
2022-03-29_11-20-29 by Scott Reid, on Flickr
Old pump and new pump:
IMG_20220328_183615 by Scott Reid, on Flickr
Quick shot of the inside of the tank, not too bad, I never run it right down as I was always told that would suck all the crap up:
2022-03-29_11-22-00 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

Had read a lot about the pump being noisy, considering this is without the cover/sound deadening and carpet. It's not too bad, pretty much the same as my stock pump. certainly on the first prime it's louder as it's essentially brand new and dry, but second prime it quietens down.
Click on it to watch the video
VID_20220328_202441 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

Couple items up on ebay to sell, then that'll go towards the EV14 injectors, tuners back onshore this week, so hopefully we get out for a road tune soon.

On a side note, the car is definitely putting out more fuel on cranking (as you'd expect), so I'll need to pull fuel to see if that'll get it starting a bit happier again, as applying throttle no longer works and I'm getting some kickback on cranking.