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Post by scottydugg on Jan 31, 2022 9:21:13 GMT
Got 5 minutes to look at the turbo manifold stud issue, small circular file on the 4 holes and the turbo sits flush on 3 now: BUT the 4th is still out:  IMG_20220130_162706 by Scott Reid, on Flickr BUT the 4th is still out:  IMG_20220130_162658 by Scott Reid, on Flickr I don't think the 11.5mm drill bit will help here as it needs clearance in one direction, so going to get a bigger round file and a dremel bit. |
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Post by scottydugg on Feb 7, 2022 11:03:28 GMT
Got a couple hours on the car at the weekend, instead of procrastinating with the turbo setup, I set about swapping in the Speeduino ECU, as the car can't be started now on the stock ECU. Firstly, swapped in the GM IAT, quick comparison between the stock unit and the new setup:  IMG_20220205_144006 by Scott Reid, on Flickr Fitted in place, handily had a spare piece of silicone that fit, to replace my temporary solution thats' bee on the car since we did the Randall Cowl mod.  IMG_20220205_145132 by Scott Reid, on Flickr ECU plugged in and in position, won't refit the covers until I know it's in their for good.  IMG_20220205_152550 by Scott Reid, on Flickr Started up TunerStudio, connected the ECU and spent a while trying to find out why I couldn't recalibrate the IAT, had to revert to an older version to get it to work. Set the upper and lower limits for the TPS and decided to try and start it, no joy, it cranks but that's about it just now. Hopefully can get it started soon. |
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Post by scottydugg on Feb 9, 2022 11:40:41 GMT
We've got fuel, we've got spark, we've got a car that doesn't start. Checking the timing tonight with some assistance, but if it's not that I'm running out of ideas, think it might be time to get the tuner down to take a look or remote in, if this doesn't crack it. Got the cold side of the turbo back, so put it all back together (note: the circlip is orientated), looks to be in the region it needs to be, I've got a Kinugawa Actuator I can use with a kinked connecting rod, I just need the correct end to fit the GT2554R. If it need's clocked more (hopefully not) I'll need to get 2 new holes drilled, or try adjusting the bracket.  IMG_20220208_223249 by Scott Reid, on Flickr Little steps at the minute, hopefully get it started and tuned soon before the weather improves. Edit: looks like we've found the problem, TDC is missing. Currently going through the process of adjusting tunerstudio to get TDC to 10 degrees, only get a finite amount of goes before the battery needs recharged so hopefully get it sorted tonight. Base map dwell time was double what it should be so hopefully not killed my coil pack. |
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Post by scottydugg on Feb 11, 2022 13:46:53 GMT
Still no joy on finding TDC on the crank, only get a couple shots before need to recharge the battery. Hopefully get it over the weekend with any luck. Some progress made though, hot side turbo flange has now been "adjusted" with a file to fit, didn't need too much in the end.  IMG_20220209_195448 by Scott Reid, on Flickr Also cut-down the end of the actuator arm end, to allow enough adjustment with the new actuator position, hope it clears the underside of the bonnet.  IMG_20220210_214708 by Scott Reid, on Flickr |
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Post by howardb66 on Feb 11, 2022 14:00:33 GMT
Dumb question, you’re putting a gasket between the manifold and turbo? That should help seal again any slight imperfections shouldn’t it?
There’s a guide on how to set up the actuator arm on the forge site if that helps.
Not sure about the your turbo set up, but I’ve had to cut the underside bonnet frame to let it close properly to clear the actuator on mine & a friend has done the same with his too. Not difficult, just go carefully with the angle grinder 🙂
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Post by scottydugg on Feb 11, 2022 14:19:45 GMT
Dumb question, you’re putting a gasket between the manifold and turbo? That should help seal again any slight imperfections shouldn’t it? There’s a guide on how to set up the actuator arm on the forge site if that helps. Not sure about the your turbo set up, but I’ve had to cut the underside bonnet frame to let it close properly to clear the actuator on mine & a friend has done the same with his too. Not difficult, just go carefully with the angle grinder 🙂 I had read mixed reviews on running a turbo/manifold gasket, I've got one, but was leaning towards not running it. Majority of feedback I've seen may have been from stretching studs though and not the gasket. What's your feedback/setup? I was trying to decide on what whether Resbond on the studs/locking washers were needed. Yeah setup the actuator to have 2mm pre-load on it, I'll probably re-do once it's fitted so there's no mistakes. Hacking off bonnet support structure isn't an issue then, least of my worries  |
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Post by howardb66 on Feb 11, 2022 16:48:41 GMT
Have got gaskets on every joint & they’ve held together so far. 🤞🏻
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Post by Zed. on Feb 11, 2022 17:10:41 GMT
Have got gaskets on every joint & they’ve held together so far. 🤞🏻 you're obviously not trying hard enough  Rich. |
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Post by howardb66 on Feb 11, 2022 17:26:12 GMT
All my friends say I’m very trying 🙂
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Post by Zed. on Feb 11, 2022 18:16:06 GMT
All my friends say I’m very trying 🙂  Rich. |
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Post by howardb66 on Feb 12, 2022 15:23:08 GMT
I was trying to decide on what whether Resbond on the studs/locking washers were needed. Sorry, missed this bit. I used a combination of - M10 tab washers & 304/A2 grade Stainless Steel Aerotight locking stiff nuts, got them from Black cat down in Lavant, but I guess you could get them from somewhere local. 👍🏻 |
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Post by atlex on Feb 12, 2022 21:14:57 GMT
big fan of nordlocks here.
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Post by scottydugg on Feb 14, 2022 14:10:49 GMT
I was trying to decide on what whether Resbond on the studs/locking washers were needed. Sorry, missed this bit. I used a combination of - M10 tab washers & 304/A2 grade Stainless Steel Aerotight locking stiff nuts, got them from Black cat down in Lavant, but I guess you could get them from somewhere local. 👍🏻 big fan of nordlocks here. Thanks both, was looking into some nordlock washers and some copper aerotight nuts as it was. Just trying to decide on the best route to go, with the 5OFF turbo to elbow and 4 OFF elbow to down pipe studs. Not going to go Inconel for these at this stage but was considering something like THESE. Unless someone has a tried and tested cheaper alternative? |
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Post by zoona on Feb 20, 2022 13:50:50 GMT
FWIW i have plain old nut and washer and a nut backed off once every couple of track days. It's a pain, and not great - but it's also not falling off every 5 seconds.
So i would (will) spend some money on something more secure, but not the insane prices of inconel.
Watching in interest for suitable options...
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Post by Zed. on Feb 20, 2022 14:19:43 GMT
FWIW i have plain old nut and washer and a nut backed off once every couple of track days. It's a pain, and not great - but it's also not falling off every 5 seconds. So i would (will) spend some money on something more secure, but not the insane prices of inconel. Watching in interest for suitable options... turbo mount nuts? a friend fitted brass nuts to his Evo6 rallycar's turbo studs, ~/3 of the way round the first lap (rally in Pembrey) it got loud & lost power  when he got back to service I spent ages looking for suitable replacements as they were a fine thread (& the studs had a nice brass thread helix infil  ) aparently Mitsubishi / Ralliart specc's titanium fasteners for the rallycars... Rich. |
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) aparently Mitsubishi / Ralliart specc's titanium fasteners for the rallycars...
le sigh