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Post by Zed. on Dec 28, 2020 16:18:36 GMT
done some oilpump considerin.... tripped over a Vauxhall XE 2L crank so laid it out with a Ford / Cosworth BDA 1.6L steel billet crank and an early Mazda B6 / 'shortnose' crank  the BDA crank is in the middle with the Mazda crank being the shortest for comparison. anyway, back to the 5...  the 'stack' of pulleys & trigger.  test-fit of the 36/2 trigger wheel, can now see how much smaller diameter the pulley I'm using is compared to the triggerwheel (oem Mazda pulley slightly smaller than the triggerwheel so now have lower waterpump & alternator speeds).  my Pace 3-stage oilpumps, the shorter pump is the one that started my drysump adventure & has added a chunk to the spending!  better visualisation, all 3 sections are longer so both scavanges will 'suck' more (maybe closer to getting vacuum in the crankcase?) and the pressure section (opposite end to the pulley) can flow more oil - although I doubt that pressure & flow will be an issue especially as each section are ~3 x wider than standard Mazda pump rotors!  trial fit on the block, the waterpump's inlet will be fabricated to miss the scavange's outlet, the scavange can run with either outlets feeding out as a single due to the pump-body's internal porting, I'll probably use the front section's outlet so swap these around like on the other pump. I'm undecided as to AN12 screwed scavange from the sump or pushfit & jubilee-clip like the shorter pump has although thse are swappable between pumps...  better view of oil ports vs waterpump inlet. more fiddlin to follow... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Dec 29, 2020 12:32:51 GMT
another sidetrack care of ebay... I've been playing with wiring and simplifying the underbonnet as I'm going to use a stand-alone engine management system so will not be using most of what Mazda supplied. also, I fancied some mil-spec bulkhead connectors so bought 1 x 19 pin & 1 x 6 pin connector.  dodgy old army take-off's but good quality (hopefully!)  decided to run all the wiring down the drivers side with most in the 19 pin connector but use the 6 pin connector on the passanger side for wipermotor, screenwash pump & the passanger side indicator's side repeater as it's mounted on the wing near the bulkhead. hopefully this makes sense and looks neat.... luckily I have a spare front loom thats mostly stripped to basics so can chop & splice without killing my car! no other progress though.... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Dec 31, 2020 23:05:58 GMT
last photo of the 5's for 2020...  compared to the Ninety they are small  Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jan 2, 2021 13:13:44 GMT
bulkhead connectors arrived....  6 pin, will use for wipermotor 4 wires) & screenwash pump (2 wires).  in bits, unfortunately missing the gland / nut for the end of the shroud but not the end of the world..  the 'busness' end, wires easily soldered in  next, the 19 pin connector. intend to use this for lighting & basic engine wires like startermotor & alternator warning lamp.  the complete unit.   the 'bits', the terminals are cast into the housings with 'tails' attached so I'll be connecting to these with the old 'solder & heatschrink' method, luckily the 'plug' housing has a clamp to steady the wires so this will come in handy to save vibrations snapping the joins.  rear of the terminals.  the 'pins' in the 'plug', after I'd taken this photo I noticed one of the pins was bent & flattened against the backing  not the end of the world as I want to use 18/19 but will try to recover & straighten as having a spare can get you out of a mess..... anyway, when the rain / snow / cold weather decides what it's doing I'll start knitting the loom Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jan 6, 2021 15:45:22 GMT
been planning (& playing) with the oil hoses & where they'll run in the enginebay.  45 & 90 degree fittings and they're hose position relative to the pump. the 90 degree fitting is on the pressure-section's 'feed' from the reservoir / tank, this will actually be coming from the rear as the reservoir will be in the passanger footwell just inside the bulkhead. the 45 degree fitting is the sump's 'scavange' section (2 sections) outlet that will run to an oilcooler then the reservoir so foreward then back to the bulkhead about where the rhd car's wipermotor is - another story but I'm moving it!  another view, shows the hose at a 'happy'bend (not over bent & crimped or collapsed) I'm trying to decide if the feed from reservoir to the pump's pressure stage can run along the chassis rail to the bulkhead or should run higher up along the innerwing, this is related to exhaust heat / proximity  - I do have silicone coated / fiberglass heat-resistant hose sleeves but if theres a solution that doesn't involve 'cooking' the oil on it's way from reservoir to pump / engine then I'm looking for it  want a neat & efficient installation, nothing worse than pipes / hoses & wires evrywhere underbonnet annoyingly, this design of oilpump runs the pressure section @ rear, I need the pressure hose to run foreward then accross the enginebay (as there's plenty of room) to a remote filter housing then to the engine ( possibly entering in vis the origonal oilfilter port) so hoses crossing-over above the pump more thinking ongoing.... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jan 6, 2021 22:52:01 GMT
another tangent (ish).... to fit the oil reservoir / tank in the passanger footwell theres a small isue with the heater-blower fan! add to that, the standard Mazda heater weighs a ton & is ginormous I've been looking at various kitcar heater units and tripped over a unit as fitted in the rear of modern 'London' taxi's bloody ebay again & a cheeky offer of £40....  these have a Spal 3 speed fan (maybe 4 speed? I see an extra terminal unused on the resistor!) and the fan unit is a ~5" cube making the whole unit ~7" or 8" cube so should easily fit in the space between gearbox-tunnel / bulkhead / under-windscreen scuttle & dashboard I'll fabricate a maniold to allow screen demist & feet warming options, more bloody work!  old image from 2018, the heater lives here but I've other plans  one day I'll start bolting bits on the car..... Rich. |
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Post by dadbif on Jan 7, 2021 7:51:13 GMT
That’s a neat little unit
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Post by Zed. on Jan 7, 2021 11:03:19 GMT
That’s a neat little unit I bet you say that to all the boys  but seriously, will find out if it was a £40 gamble that works out when it lands here I'm gambling on a lot of parts that Might fit or Could be modifiable, unfortunately theres not many people that have previously gone in a similar direction AND documented it such as the pitfalls can be shared  Rich. |
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Post by dadbif on Jan 7, 2021 11:10:53 GMT
Last time I fitted a heater to a car was when building my Westfield, modified a mini heater, no defrost, but pointless, but made ally deflectors to force air into the foot wells.
BTW, how did you know I like little boxeths
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Post by Zed. on Jan 8, 2021 11:08:02 GMT
heatertime.... the 'Taxi' rear heater has landed, compared next to a standard Mx5 heaterbox that came from a car I stripped....  slight size difference   theres no ducting fitted to this but thats easily sorted, probably go for perminant demist & selectable feet warmth.  the pipe-stubs are easily swapped from this side by drilling new holes in the opposite frame, the motor is setup with 3 speeds but theres an extra terminal on the resistor pack so I'll investigate that later.  side view really shows the difference! the unit is.. 10 1/4" long. 9 1/4" wide. 8" high. at its largest, the length & width include the steel mount frame so it can be trimmed smaller if needed? suppose I'll have to strip the dashboard from the car (again), it's a job that I've been putting off as theres other mods to do there like a brace for the Eps column & access to plumb the brake system. more to follow... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jan 8, 2021 12:36:25 GMT
another slight tangent jump... I'm still playing with engine bits & like the idea of Honda pistons & their longer conrods, this is something I've been fiddlin with for over a year & naturally theres little progress..... ebay the foul temptress again to the rescue... saw a set of pistons & conrods advertised as from a 'B18C4' engine with the 81mm bore so curiosity has a grip on me....  these differ to the 'PR3' rods & pistons I already have, amongst other differences the pistons have foating gudgeon-pins, 'slipper' design skirts and the rods use a bolted bearing cap (as opposed to the PR3's nut&bolt) so, waiting for these to land now then will compare Rich. |
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Post by dadbif on Jan 8, 2021 22:31:44 GMT
The heater core on the taxi unit looks a lot bigger than the Mazda, how small is the Mazda unit when you remove all the flaps and housing?
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Post by Zed. on Jan 8, 2021 22:36:26 GMT
The heater core on the taxi unit looks a lot bigger than the Mazda, how small is the Mazda unit when you remove all the flaps and housing? the cores are about the same size, the overall unit size is important as I'm able to forget about the Mazda remote blower unit & its ducting Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jan 8, 2021 22:36:56 GMT
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Post by dadbif on Jan 9, 2021 9:55:24 GMT
The heater core on the taxi unit looks a lot bigger than the Mazda, how small is the Mazda unit when you remove all the flaps and housing? the cores are about the same size, the overall unit size is important as I'm able to forget about the Mazda remote blower unit & its ducting Rich. Immediately after I had posted I remembered the blower is remote.. |
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not the end of the world as I want to use 18/19 but will try to recover & straighten as having a spare can get you out of a mess.....
- I do have silicone coated / fiberglass heat-resistant hose sleeves but if theres a solution that doesn't involve 'cooking' the oil on it's way from reservoir to pump / engine then I'm looking for it 
le sigh