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Post by Zed. on Jan 9, 2021 12:11:39 GMT
the cores are about the same size, the overall unit size is important as I'm able to forget about the Mazda remote blower unit & its ducting  Rich. Immediately after I had posted I remembered the blower is remote..and in the way of where I want the engines oil reservoir  evry action has an......  Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jan 10, 2021 17:38:59 GMT
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Post by Zed. on Jan 11, 2021 15:05:10 GMT
another slight tangent jump... I'm still playing with engine bits & like the idea of Honda pistons & their longer conrods, this is something I've been fiddlin with for over a year & naturally theres little progress..... ebay the foul temptress again to the rescue... saw a set of pistons & conrods advertised as from a 'B18C4' engine with the 81mm bore so curiosity has a grip on me....  these differ to the 'PR3' rods & pistons I already have, amongst other differences the pistons have foating gudgeon-pins, 'slipper' design skirts and the rods use a bolted bearing cap (as opposed to the PR3's nut&bolt) so, waiting for these to land now then will compare  Rich. So... those pistons & rods were different to the ebay photo - this was not quite a suprise as the photo showed the K20 (S2000) rod & piston... anyway, parcel delivered & a set of P72 pistons & rods are here now, I was sorta expecting these as the info on B18c4 engines suggested.  they've been through the partswasher so clean (& slight rusting!)  not bad condition, these allow me to pick & choose on compression ratio for the build... hopefully the 'others' will arrive soon & I can compare all 3 types incidently, the p72 conrods are from Honda's 1800cc and ~4mm longer than the PR3 (1600) rods I'll be using. bit of a shame as the P72 rod is a lovely high-quality steel item  I'm going to have a looksee at the heater later.... Rich. |
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Post by swordspork on Jan 11, 2021 15:29:21 GMT
Mazda + Honda
Hazda
Monda
Mondaz
Hoondeo
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Post by Zed. on Jan 11, 2021 15:39:35 GMT
Mazda + Honda Hazda Monda Mondaz Hoondeo that's one way to look at it, personally I think it's going to be a bitza IF it works ps. HazDa OR HAZARD?  Rich. |
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Post by dadbif on Jan 11, 2021 22:39:08 GMT
Be trendy, call it a Hybrid
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Post by Zed. on Jan 12, 2021 11:05:56 GMT
Be trendy, call it a Hybrid Mazda (Eunos) car . Vauxhall electric powersteering. Kia diff / final-drive ratio. Honda pistons & rods. Suzuki throttlebodies. Volkswagen Polo radiator. Taxi heater. so far..... then how much aftermarket stuff...  Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jan 12, 2021 23:09:01 GMT
had another piston / conrod delivery today.... a set of 'R' rods & P73 pistons. a second set of P72 rods & pistons. so, I now have a set of 1.6 Honda B16 PR3 rods & pistons that I imported from California as I couldn't find any in the UK the 2 sets of 1.8 Honda B18 somethingorother P72 rods & pistons And the set of rare-ish P73 pistons with the amusingly titled, R conrods (aparently made of a higher quality steel ) so, I want to use the PR3 conrods (or maybe get some aftermarket items to same dimensions?) and one of the piston sets - compression-ratio dependant.  my 'collection'. (top-bottom) Mazda 1.6L B6ZE(rs) piston. Mazda 1.8L BP piston. Honda B16 PR3 rod & piston. Honda B18 P72 rod & piston. Honda B18 P72 rod & piston. Honda B18 'Type R' rod & P73 piston.  Mazda B6 (top) BP (bottom).  Mazda B6 (top) BP (bottom).  the Honda 1.6 B16 PR3, I've got some 'adjustment' to do on the conrod to fit the Mazda crankshaft. this rod is 1mm longer than the Mazda B6 / BP item - the main reason I've been looking into this mod....  the Honda 1.8 B18 P72, this rod is 4mm longer than the B16 item, unfortunately too long for Mazda conversion   the Honda 1.8 B18 type 'R' rod & P73 piston, these rods are the same dimensionally as the P72 rod but higher quality steel. the P73 pistons have a teflon coating on their skirts & extra oil-holes to feed the gudgeon-pins.  piston crown differences.  tried to get a photo showing the piston crown differences. ![]()  rod length differences. there is another type of piston used in honda 1.6 type 'R' engines (the PCT type) but these would mean running on E85 fuel due to the ~14.5:1 compression ratio . I'm resisting temptation....... Rich. |
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Post by dadbif on Jan 13, 2021 9:04:20 GMT
Based on my experience of conn rods, I would say the B16 PR3 is the stronger rod. How do they maintain alignment between rod and cap, waisted bolts or a sleeve?
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Post by Zed. on Jan 13, 2021 11:02:59 GMT
How do they maintain alignment between rod and cap, waisted bolts or a sleeve? fitted bolts, interfearance in the rod & cap - think the cap is closer to size although I've not measured.... these are the larger 9mm bolts...  ARP bolt / nut kit is ~ £100 not fair the B16 seem safe to 8,400 but then also are the B18 R rods so... I need to machine the bigend to narrow enough for the Mazda crankpin width, this will mean pressing the gudgeon-pins out to remove the pistons so I can fit them in the lathe... thinking about polishing the webs & obviously ballancling them, then piston selection (need to choose a cylinderblock & get spending on rebore costs also )  random piston underskirt photo (for records) Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jan 14, 2021 13:02:54 GMT
more fiddlin... stripped the metal frame from the dashboard, partly as I want to make an 'extra' brace for the Corsa eps column & partly as I want to see the interaction with it & the taxi heater setup. another bonus is that as I'm re-knitting the car's loom and this involves running all lighting down the drivers side this also allows me to un-pick the dashboard's loom / wires that cross the car. the heater blower wiring is basiclay 4 wires from the switch so this is easy, the rest, well thats taking a bit of thought radio wiring will go (all the way to the seats) and the ecu's diagnostic plug will temporarlly live somewhere under the dashboard - untill the future when I completely remove the ecu & it's wiring to go completely stand-alone. as to heater ducting, I've removed most of the plastic pipework from the dashboard as I'll just be using the demist ducts (fed by conveluted tubing) so thats a massive weight-saving of ~100 grams ebay & curiosity caught me again, cheeky offer & a set of ebc redstuff pads are on their way - I know they are not the best but for the price they'll allow me to fit & bleed the mk1 'sport' calipers so worthwhile. another ebay lack of common-sense (UNcommon maybe?) meant I've bought a single Wilwood Dynalite caliper to play with. it was cheap enough to gamble with  and... I've bought another Pace drysump reservoir, this will be measured against the one I already have & either replace it (if bigger?) OR I'll chop & weld the 2 togther to get the required size to fit the 5's bidyshell. possibly a bit extreme but it was £35 so not braking the bank I'm thinking to much into this build...... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jan 14, 2021 20:26:18 GMT
dashboard wiring simplification...  removed a few bits that'll not be used.  dont look like much has been done.  some bits removed, de-pinned what I could & cut at the splices. removed the electric window wiring, interior (vanity?) lights & wiring, ciggy-lighter socket & wiring, heated rear window wiring and the radio wiring. so, next job will be to remove the corrisponding wires from the car. I'm hoping it'll be easy enough tracing from the plugs - the door & seat speaker wiring will be easy but the wiring that runs foreward is going to be interesting as I'm intending to remove ALL that feeds through through the bulkhead... fun (aparently ) Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jan 14, 2021 21:16:42 GMT
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Post by howardb66 on Jan 15, 2021 15:54:24 GMT
Those laminova things are very good. Had one on my Griff when I used it on track. Although I have an air/oil cooler on my 5.
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Post by Zed. on Jan 16, 2021 0:34:15 GMT
had a silly (clever??) idea... could fit the Laminova cooler next to the oil tank & heater under the dashboard would be out of the way & in the flid flow / pathways so a win-win?  re-use this photo as it was handy.... hummmmmmmm..... Rich. |
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