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Post by dadbif on Jan 16, 2021 9:23:07 GMT
It would be very handy for both oil and water. Move the ECU up under the scuttle. Go for it!
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Post by Zed. on Jan 16, 2021 10:40:26 GMT
It would be very handy for both oil and water. Move the ECU up under the scuttle. Go for it! I'm moving the ecu, actually removing the ecu & it's wiring as going stand-alone. probably mount the ecu on the tunnel behind the tombstone / consul  Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jan 16, 2021 16:51:43 GMT
dashboard thoughts. stripped the 'eyeball' vents & their respective ducting out as they're not needed & if I do fit a rollcage then the pillar-ends og the dash will probably be cut off...  the demist ducting will be shortened & flexable piping will be used to connect to the taxi heater unit (will be making adapters for this)  the steel frame back in the car.  taxi heater will live here...  or this way around?  standard wiring harness runs across the bulkhead, I'll be removing this as all underbonnet standard wiring will pass through the bulkhead & run along the drivers innerwing.  the heater will be fitted about here but this is still up to adjustment & theres probably something else that'll need to go here  more thinking to do..... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jan 17, 2021 16:41:49 GMT
another slight tangent (although electrical so sorta associated) bought (ebay again!) an Alternator for a Subaru Justy 1.3 (1994- 2001) as they're small  they have a different wiring connection compared to the type used by Mazda on the NA / mk1 1.6 cars I'll have to swap the plug but that's all dependant on the mount bracket fitting the Mazda engine easily.... anyway...  bit smaller...  the wiring conector.  one dummy connection, easily ignored. wiring-plug & 6" tails are ~£9 posted so thats no problem or cost. on to brakes, I've captured a new set of EBC 'Redstuff' front pads for a sensible price on ebay, some people hate EBC but I'm on the fence about them so will try them. also, I needed pads so I can fit the mk2 'Sport' calipers & bleed the system so for the price it was either standard / aftermarket or these EBC pads.... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jan 18, 2021 11:25:53 GMT
Laminova oil-cooler has landed  I took a gamble on this (ebay) and it looks to be new as described & in servicable condition. this size is comparable to a conventional 16 row air-oil cooler but as it can be mounted anywhere they're less vunerable to accident damage   does it need polishing   coolant inlet, guessing that the threads are 1/4bsp or npt?will measure later. I might buy dedicated 'slip-on' hose flanges (cheaper than machining myself!) but it all depends on the plumbing I decide on...  dismantled...   the coolant pathway through the core...  oil inlet path to the core... I'll replace the 'O' rings for safety & am looking into a coolant restrictor to help divert flow through the outer channels as opposed to the central bore due to my plan of installing in the heater pipework somewhere... I've been wanting to play with one of these for years, seen them (& installed) in various workplaces but never used on a car so a new tec. Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jan 20, 2021 14:26:57 GMT
Had a diff mount strenthened, seems to be a standard mod or upgrade...  local weldist did the work & I'm happy with the result   now I can fit the delrin mount bushes & the 4.778:1 diff... on to alternators, I'd been looking for a new alternator (new engine so new alternator??) and bought a Denso item supposedly to fit a Subaru Justy & as an added bonus, they're smaller than the standard Mazda fit item    top down.. NA 1.8 Mx5. Mazda 323 turbo (~1986??). Subaru Justy (early 90's???).  smaller than the 323 item.  the 323 & Mx5 have similar sized alternators, main difference is the aux wiring connection's position (higher on Mx5?) and the 323 uses a lower nut & bolt fastening on the pivot-mount.  fits the B6 engine's mount-lug so a win. Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jan 20, 2021 17:52:35 GMT
Laminova oil-cooler has landed I took a gamble on this (ebay) and it looks to be new as described & in servicable condition. this size is comparable to a conventional 16 row air-oil cooler but as it can be mounted anywhere they're less vunerable to accident damage does it need polishing coolant inlet, guessing that the threads are 1/4bsp or npt?will measure later. I might buy dedicated 'slip-on' hose flanges (cheaper than machining myself!) but it all depends on the plumbing I decide on... dismantled... the coolant pathway through the core... oil inlet path to the core... I'll replace the 'O' rings for safety & am looking into a coolant restrictor to help divert flow through the outer channels as opposed to the central bore due to my plan of installing in the heater pipework somewhere... I've been wanting to play with one of these for years, seen them (& installed) in various workplaces but never used on a car so a new tec. Rich. so, onto Speedflow's website & ordered a few bits...  hummm, this is collecting beer-tokens again... theres a 1/8"bspp -3 fitting so I can make a braided hose for the 'real' oilpressure gauge & obviously the rest is consumables... at least I'ts going to be leakproofed so a good thing. why do the little things cost a fortune? Rich. |
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Post by dickie on Jan 20, 2021 18:13:21 GMT
Rich, You need to get yourself a Job  You are having far too much fun !!! All good info from you though. |
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Post by Zed. on Jan 20, 2021 19:56:03 GMT
Rich, You need to get yourself a Job You are having far too much fun !!! All good info from you though. Christ how do you think I'm paying for this lot It'll be fun when I actually start assembling bits Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jan 21, 2021 22:37:09 GMT
another lack of action but another delivery...  a single ebay Dynalite caliper, 1.38" pistons & spaced for a 1" wide disc. also had a half-set (2 of 4) of unknown compound Wilwood pads.  theres the Wilwood inlet-port cover / sticker in place, the seller believed it could have been as new & unused but had no proof....  I've no idea as to the spacers & bolts, they've obviously been used to mock something...  I've fitted these on cars for other people but never used them myself, now I've one in my paws I can have a fiddle & decide if I'm going to buy another to make a pair for a significant saving... also, in the 'Shed of dread' I've had a set of EBC greenstuff pads, had them so long that the box has fallen apart Rich. |
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Post by dadbif on Jan 22, 2021 8:41:57 GMT
I know these are unpopular in some quarters, but I run Greenstuff pads both front and rear, road use only. More than happy with them.
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Post by Zed. on Jan 22, 2021 10:44:32 GMT
I know these are unpopular in some quarters, but I run Greenstuff pads both front and rear, road use only. More than happy with them. I'm on the fence about them, for roaduse they should be fine (hopefully) but general forum & anti-social media knowledge says you must get xyz expensive whateverthef uck to keep up with the Jonses * on rallycars I've used standard pad compounds in rear brakes if roadgoing calipers due to their instant 'bite' from cold and cost & availability, front pads was dependant on use as roadrally / tarmac & gravel have different braking and also different calipers / discs & pads... anyway.... brakes are the worst enemy of speed...... so we fit bigger & more efficient brake systems to our cars in an effort tho go faster
* Okey, I admit to buying / fitting some expensive parts on my cars BUT usually they are bought @ knockdown prices, used & refurbished OR begged/borrowed&stollen  . also they can sometimes be the answer to my unknown questios
Rich. |
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Post by dadbif on Jan 22, 2021 22:04:46 GMT
I had greenstuff on the front of my Westfield but standard mintex on the rear, no brake bias adjustment so the lower friction stopped the rears locking up as the backend lightened up.
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Post by Zed. on Jan 23, 2021 16:18:51 GMT
back thinking (fiddlin???) with the oiltank, bought another similar sized Pace tank for cheap so considering chopping & splicing them togther to make a taller tank, this would allow the filler, oil-in port & breather to be above the bulkhead / plenium for ease of access and the added bonus of more oil (never a bad thing?)  the 'new' tank is slightly different design but the same diameter (4" / 100mm) so a perfect match th hybridise for the Eunos, also this gives a bit more choice on hose orientation as the first tank was made for a Caterham & not quite right for the bulkhead of a proper car  sorta that length... also captured a secondhand Mocal breather-catchcan thing (the 2L size) another ebay purchase for 1/5 of the new price  otherwise, no progress.. Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jan 25, 2021 11:38:41 GMT
off on another tangent... I'm going to be using a 4.778:1 final drive ratio so the speedo reading will be somewhat high! some 'grey' import Eunos roadsters had their speedometer faces changed from 180km to 110miles but theree was another method used - down-gearing the speedo-drive... there are some ~2:1 reduction gearboxes that were fitted to these cars on import / UK registration & I tripped over one (ebay again) so will play with this & gearbox driven-gears to hopefully have some sembalance of a reasonable speedo reading.  I might remake a cable so the reduction box is nearer the dashboard as mounting below the car is never a great idea more jobs on the list... Rich. |
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You are having far too much fun !!!
. also they can sometimes be the answer to my unknown questios 
le sigh