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Post by niklas on Feb 10, 2019 15:59:23 GMT
Slow progress with this, but today I got a couple of hours in the garage. So I changed the master brake cylinder. Out with the old  And in with the new   The new wilwood master has bleed nipples on the cylinder itself. So no need to bench bleed. The main reason for the change is of course going from a 7/8" to a 1" master. Also bled the brakes. I need to change front pads and discs though. Pads has one track day left in them, discs have finally cracked. |
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Post by niklas on Feb 22, 2019 14:42:21 GMT
When inspecting the brakes changing the masterI found that the fronts where done, as per the last post. The discs had cracked in 6/10 inner grooves on both sides after the last track day.  The pads where also done for and I thought that I'll try the hawk dtc-60 instead of the carbotechs I'm used to, the hawks are half the price, so if I like them it would be awesome.  New discs aren't grooved. The ducts will handle cooling anyhow. I hope.  |
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Post by Zed. on Feb 22, 2019 15:10:55 GMT
I wonder if those discs wouldn’t have cracked if they weren’t grooved? Definitely seems to be a weakness there  The cynic in my thinks.... ‘Grooved discs have a good selling point, once you’ve bought a set it’s not long before you buy replacements ‘  Good thing you’ve noticed as a disc failure when driving is not funny!! Rich. |
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Post by niklas on Feb 22, 2019 15:21:42 GMT
Yup.
On the other hand, most high end racecar discs are drilled and/or grooved. But I suppose those are one use items.
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Post by shadowraven on Feb 28, 2019 0:54:35 GMT
Well you weren't coming back to Nutz so I finally caved and got an account here  Good to see Zed too. Car's looking good and congrats on the new addition. Those brake disc cracks look concerning. They only appear to be on the inside? You don't think it's related to the corado disks being externally vented and not getting enough air from the ducting? On that subject, how do you find them and how effective is the brake ducting considering those disks are externally vented? I recently got a similar kit, 280mm corado discs but with OE calipers. |
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Post by howardb66 on Feb 28, 2019 10:42:51 GMT
I went through a phase of buying grooved & drilled brake discs. In my own experience they either cracked or warped. I just buy good quality regular discs now- I’ve had Brembo’s (from Eurocarparts on one of their deals) for over a year now & done a season of hillclimbs, sprints & trackdays without any problems.
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Post by Zed. on Feb 28, 2019 17:31:27 GMT
I went through a phase of buying grooved & drilled brake discs. In my own experience they either cracked or warped. I just buy good quality regular discs now I did similar some years ago (~20) on rallycars, I'd only trust the likes of AP Racing for non-standard discs and that realy refers to groving not drilling as I think its not needed  also, it's cheaper to use 'standard' discs  Rich. |
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Post by niklas on Feb 28, 2019 21:19:02 GMT
Hi Shadowraven  Good to see you on here. To be fair the hubs are so thin on the mx5 that the corrado discs are "all over vented" my cooling ducts are aimed at the centre of the disc, I think the grooves are the culprit, introducing failure points. The new discs will have to prove the point |
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Post by shadowraven on Mar 1, 2019 13:12:24 GMT
Ok, nice to hear the corado disks should do me well then. Currently only at stock power in my black nbfl track car which I finally managed to get, and is going to be built in no way heavily influenced by your build  lol. |
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Post by niklas on Mar 29, 2019 16:20:07 GMT
My home garage has a low ceiling. That makes me unable to fit a 2 post lift in there. So I bought something else.  Hopefully I'll love to use this thing. It will be enough for almost everything. Hell, I usually change gearbox on jackstands. |
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Post by niklas on Mar 30, 2019 17:32:15 GMT
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Post by niklas on Apr 6, 2019 20:14:33 GMT
Changed the coolant winter blend for water and water wetter. Also changed oil. The quick jack really is a good tool making this fast. Currently charging the battery and hopefully I'll get it out soon |
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Post by niklas on Apr 11, 2019 5:55:05 GMT
Hmmmm. My lsd is on its way out, so I got a replacement. I will need a 200mm micrometer. Uuh, not a cheap tool. So, the 3J HD upgraded plate type lsd will stay in its box this season. Unless the fuji destroys itself completely.  |
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Post by Zed. on Apr 11, 2019 10:25:19 GMT
Hmmmm. My lsd is on its way out, so I got a replacement. I will need a 200mm micrometer. Uuh, not a cheap tool. So, the 3J HD upgraded plate type lsd will stay in its box this season. Unless the fuji destroys itself completely. stupid question, why the mic? I've built & re-built a few transmissions & final-drives, only needed a 0-25mm (or more like 0-1"  ) for shim-stack measurement. a DTI (clock-micrometer) is more usefull to set the backlash but the mesh can be checked with marking-blue & 'Feel'  ^^ I think  Rich. ps. interested in how the 3J's lsd works out, did you buy direct or through a dealer? I'm going to phone them (3J's) for a chat @ the end of the month when I've got spare funds  |
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Post by niklas on Apr 11, 2019 14:30:32 GMT
Well, mainly I think I need the micrometer due to this www.miata.net/garage/diff_rr.htmlI've never rebuilt a differential, so it'll be a first for me. I've bought it directly. A bit before I figure that I will have the time to put it in, but brexit kind of pushed me to pull the trigger on it. |
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Good to see Zed too.
Good to see you on here.
lol.
) for shim-stack measurement.
le sigh