|
|
Post by zoona on Jan 8, 2020 18:30:46 GMT
Yeah. Oohhh. Mmmm... Sexy under hood pics.
I'll get my coat.
|
|
|
|
Post by V6 on Jan 8, 2020 18:38:20 GMT
More back history...
The doors were a big project all by themselves. Stripped, zinc primered, new rubber seals, new mechanisms. I also made new birch plywood door cards. Finally they were pro covered in leather...
Back when I had a center console and mk2 seats (fat bastards were removed!)
Hand cut
Varnished
Covered
I also modded my window winders to be quick release - don't you hate those damn springs!!
|
|
|
|
Post by V6 on Jan 8, 2020 18:46:32 GMT
More old randomness...
Back when I had a stupid stack of parts in the garage, just waiting and saving up for my instal...
Interior - parcel shelf and most metal in fact all repainted
3.6 ratio Torsen LSD (plus the correct gearbox sender parts)
Manual rack
Civic starter motor and another part of the subframe
Exedy clutch
Right, that's yer lot for past times. I will upload some more when it's all finished and sunny 
|
|
|
|
Post by swordspork on Jan 8, 2020 20:37:20 GMT
Pure.porn.
What kit did you use to mount the track battery?
|
|
|
|
Post by V6 on Jan 8, 2020 22:44:51 GMT
Cheers, although it's no polished up show car, it does have some decent parts here and there.
The battery is an Odyssey PC680. At the time I noticed an alloy mounting frame on Ebay under those search terms. Supplied by a motorsports vendor. I made a birch plywood base plate and painted that in black crackle finish. This was mounted to the chassis using some hefty OEM threaded bolt holes in that area (hence the seemingly random mounting angle to use those fixed holes). This saved a huge amount of mass and lowered the COG too.
ps
The battery was recommended by someone on PH who used one in a track spec 911. Like him, mine has never needed a top up charge. It has enough juice to crank a six cylinder, so a mazda engine is of no concern.
|
|
|
|
Post by niklas on Jan 9, 2020 5:55:04 GMT
Your seats are pretty, but driving hard in them seems tiring. Will you run something else for fast driving?
|
|
|
|
Post by V6 on Jan 9, 2020 8:09:50 GMT
I bought them because they are very light and small, being used in caterhams and minis. I also like the retro look inside. My backside fits in them snugly so I don't seem to move much. Also mine is a road car rather than a track weapon. I'm personally not a fan of most track look seats. Besides, I'm not sure many normal seats will fit in and avoid my cage without hacking them about.
If I were building a pure track car it may be different. Then again I'd likely have gone for a Honda K24 for lower mass again, carbon body panels etc.
|
|
|
|
Post by V6 on Jan 9, 2020 13:33:22 GMT
Brackets angled and mounted.   Next up... I was going to put a tiny dot of superglue under each bracket, then position the GRP on the car. Then I plan to unbolt the GRP leaving the brackets in the right place on the hood. Then I can drill the mounting holes through the bracket into the sheet metal hood. Hopefully this works  |
|
|
|
Post by wannabe on Jan 9, 2020 13:47:27 GMT
I had forgotten you'd done the doorcards - they look so OEM that they look totally right and you just don't even notice them, which is a compliment! re: the seats, I have a spine made of porcelain and always need lower back support (hence I am struggling to find aftermarket seat options for mine) but once you're in and settled, V6's seats are actually pretty comfy. We were in them for a few hours and even though we were focusing more on other thing  I didn't step out with backache. I think they add to the old-skool, mini-cobra feel - where you sort of have to hang on to the steering wheel for support, lol. Is that good or bad? I think it sort of adds to the experience, and it does help encourage one not to take liberties when cornering... Would I want to crash in them? With the cage behind my head? Er, no. But then I don't think anyone really wants to crash in a 5, regardless of kit in it...  re: the bonnet brackets, I like the idea to get them stuck and then drill them, but be careful - if you leave them protruding while the bulge is getting painted, the fuzz could probably pull you for 'dangerous condition' (because nothing is supposed to be sticking out or able to injure pedestrians - and no, I don't know how 90s Mercs and Rolls Royces get away with it, lol, it must be because they have drop/tilt mechanisms!). I've swapped the IMG tags for URL tags back on page 2 but Tinypic has eaten all the pictures previously uploaded  Annoying! |
|
|
|
Post by V6 on Jan 9, 2020 14:59:25 GMT
No worries Wannabe, thanks for your help earlier while I was being a mongtard. Maybe just delete those posts from page 2 now. I posted more historical pics up again over the last couple of pages anyway 
Right... just finished before the rain. Test screw down tomorrow.  Drilled and removed  Predictably... removing the superglue dots with T-Cut was the hardest part  Anyone know what the best to fine skim and easily sandable filler is? Cosmetics next... wooo!
ps
Seats... Yeah, maybe they are not the most comfy for touring, or the most huggable for track use. But I get to pretend I'm driving a gokart on the street. Another smile making item in my eyes.
|
|
|
|
Post by V6 on Jan 10, 2020 9:57:17 GMT
I ordered some "U-Pol Top Stop" finishing skim body filler - "Smooth & Quick", said the priest.
Test fitting the cover shortly. That's my new name for it. Bulge just sounds wrong
It looks cold and grey out there. So I may just do a Wannabe after that job... Twitch the curtains and look over my car. Wishing it were all finished by the pixies
Edit:
It warmed up in the end. So I did some more filling, sanding, filling, sanding. Tedious, but making progress.
|
|
|
|
Post by V6 on Jan 11, 2020 14:20:50 GMT
After some basic P38 filler and sanding, then some fine filler and sanding... first primer coat. Not yet perfect so will need additional fine sanding and primer, repeat, repeat... etc
I also ditched some more dead mass. Now removed: JBL audio speaker, charging cables, rear boot mat. Another 1kg gone. Should be a bit nippier.
|
|
|
|
Post by wannabe on Jan 12, 2020 0:03:05 GMT
I think the JBL going is a plan - it's not like you can hear yourself think in it, nevermind listen to music lol, and who needs a radio when you have that engine noise! |
|
|
|
Post by zoona on Jan 12, 2020 6:16:19 GMT
I think the JBL going is a plan - it's not like you can hear yourself think in it, nevermind listen to music lol, and who needs a radio when you have that engine noise! We have similar things in the vw camper, and they work really well. |
|
|
|
Post by V6 on Jan 12, 2020 10:32:57 GMT
I actually bought the JBL Curve 3 for my little girl. It was decent enough for what is is, so got another couple for the car and bedroom. It's far from Hi-Fi of course, but then again they weigh little. I have a full audio system for a car which is unused. I have no idea what I'm going to do with it yet. Perhaps we will keep it for a future camper van or something: New age ATC high res audio player, Old school Monolithic pre amplifier / EQ, Alpine V12 1000 top level amplifier (new in box from 1995), CDT ES speakers: ES 06+ mid/sub hybrid drivers (last new black ones in the world), ES 02 tweeter/mid hybrid drivers in black alloy pods from Germany, matching CDT MX1000 adjustable crossovers. It's all tried and tested kit I've had in former cars. But bought again all brand new, just sitting there.
It's about the most compact way of achieving full bandwith sound. Only one amp and one stereo set of two way drivers (although the crossover points are not normal), yet the system covers sub bass all the way up to clear high notes. Yet no large heavy subs or sub boxes. So long as the instal is right of course.
|
|
I didn't step out with backache. I think they add to the old-skool, mini-cobra feel - where you sort of have to hang on to the steering wheel for support, lol. Is that good or bad? I think it sort of adds to the experience, and it does help encourage one not to take liberties when cornering...
le sigh
Jul 15, 2023 20:03:52 GMT