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Post by Zed. on May 30, 2019 17:51:22 GMT
Looking at about a 50hp increase initially & I recon it’ll be about 2.5k, as you say I could sell off the M45+mounts+3D printed recirc kit etc. sounds reasonable, getting to a certain power level is usually cheap (ish) but 'finding' more power costs follow along a rapidly rising scale that seems to be silly-expensive (a great example is the cost of an itb kit on a standard engine compared to the actual power increase & it's frightening! and thats just as a start before headwork, cams, ecu's & dyno time) Rich.
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Post by howardb66 on Jun 6, 2019 18:00:19 GMT
Currently chatting to Gary at Track Dog Racing about a Rotrex Kit... Watch this space.
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Post by howardb66 on Jul 25, 2019 8:47:28 GMT
Must stop looking at the BOFI site..... Those new manifolds are very tempting.....
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Post by Horney on Jul 25, 2019 9:38:11 GMT
Lol, they are very sexy.
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Post by howardb66 on Apr 15, 2020 13:18:29 GMT
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Post by dickie on Apr 15, 2020 16:41:09 GMT
We dont seem to hear much about the MP62 Supercharger these days, I used to have one in a Merlot, It had about 220 Hp, What I found out with it was the fact that on the Mazda throttle body it was restricted on the inlet side, I was looking at a GM throttle body for the inlet which would have allowed a lot more air in. I still have a Vauxhall Throttle body conversion that I was playing with in the shed. Unfortunately the interior of the intake pipe failed and got sucked through the works Snapped the belt and chewed up its guts. End of Idea for the mods !!! Now have 172 HP Itb car under lockdown at the rolling road.
The Rotrex option is about the best idea these days none of the heat of a normal charger ( I could not put my hand on the MP62 ) none of the lag of a turbo either. The installation is very neat as well. A forged bottom is the way to go with this set up though. For complete madness use a Rotrex and a small turbo. ( you can not use the power if you can not put it down )
Its a balancing act, Power / Grip / Ability / Bravery
Looks like you have till August September to build it as all events before that seem to be cancelled.
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Post by howardb66 on Nov 3, 2020 17:00:54 GMT
So, for a turbo instal do I need a BOV or Boost Controller or both?
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Post by schercheeroo on Nov 3, 2020 18:36:09 GMT
So, for a turbo instal do I need a BOV or Boost Controller or both? The answer is: Neither One but not the other Both Its depends on the application and who you ask.
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Post by warpspeed on Nov 3, 2020 22:25:16 GMT
There are a couple of threads on the Engineers Forum that may be of some interest if you wish to build a really competitive hill climb or sprint engine.
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Post by atlex on Nov 3, 2020 22:48:34 GMT
I do a country road 'hill climb' now and then. it's about a 4 minute climb up maybe 500 meters elevation, lots of curves. It's really close to my home. And empty most nights.
I'm an untrained driver. Done the climb in the turbo several times and the ITB car just once. I time the runs. turbo runs about 180HP without control and 220HP with boost control. ITB is about 120HP. all this at the wheels.
The ITB car's last (and so far only) run was 10 seconds faster than the turbo, because I don't really boost much in corners but with the response of the ITBs I'm way more focused with the throttle.
I think with boost control on, and the added 40-50HP, I'd make it up on the straights without becoming braver in the corners. And ultimately the turbo would be the faster car, if I were to be a better boosty boy in the corners.
The thinking and measuring and thinking leads me towards the realisation that the ultimate MX5 hillclimber would be with a swapped honda NA engine - either the V6 or K24. K24 with ITBs would be the dream car heh.
back to your Q. BOV and Boost Control ?
Boost control - DEFO YES
Yes, you'll want the boost control so you can get more boost further down the rev range. There's also the total power output that increases.. as per my numbers. Look at the pierberg VAG controllers they're cheap and plentiful.
BOV - .. PROBABLY YES
I'm not absolutely sure but I think the BOV can improve response on fast shifts because the turbo keeps spinning without backwash. Am I that fast at shifting ? doubt it. I run a (silly) recirculating setup on the turbo car because I can.
also, stu stu!
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Post by scottydugg on Nov 4, 2020 9:53:07 GMT
Sounds very interesting, you don't see many go rotrex this side of the pond. If you haven't already watched it, "The Slip Angle" on youtube did a comparison of multiple different FI mx5's on track and a couple engine swapped examples. Could be worth a watch for you, I know they do head to heads and one car was a rotrex car, easy way to waste a couple hours.
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jon
Chats A Lot
Posts: 270
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Post by jon on Nov 4, 2020 9:56:34 GMT
Boost Control - yes - as Atlex says it can help boost come on board more smoothly and further down the rev range. If you have a reasonable ECU you can also do boost vs. speed which can help immensely with traction, boost by gear (again, traction) and generally manipulate the amount of power in a way you can't without. You can get cheap MAC solenoids which are what most of the aftermarket boost controllers use, or use a Pierburg which a lot of German cars have as standard.
BOV - yes, but recirculating not vent to air. It's supposed to prevent turbo stall when the throttle closes, also prevents your car sounding like something from the cover of max power in the 90s... For moderate boost levels Bosch ones are fitted to a lot of VAG cars and are cheap. I probably have one in the shed somewhere if you want one for the cost of postage.
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Post by howardb66 on Nov 5, 2020 12:11:52 GMT
Looks like I’ll be fitting both then- don’t worry the BOV will be a recirculating one Jon. PM’d
Really want to fit a boost controller but not quite sure how it fits in the system but will definitely fit one.
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Post by atlex on Nov 5, 2020 13:22:15 GMT
controller fits between the wastegate actuator and a source of boost pressure (the closer to the turbo, the better)
keeping the wastegate closed earlier lets the you build boost faster.
the wastegate is opened by air pressure. the controller just reduces that airpressure either dumbly (air bleed or 'resistance' valve) or some electronically controlled some solenoid limiting how much pressure gets through - you can get your ECU to do it or an ECB device which manages the signalling..
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jon
Chats A Lot
Posts: 270
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Post by jon on Nov 5, 2020 13:24:38 GMT
For the electronic boost controller - normally there's two components:
solenoid : this sits in between the vacuum source and the wastegate on the turbo which controls the boost pressure. When activated it 'bleeds' off air to keep the wastegate closed, which results in increased boost pressure and can also help with making boost earlier.
controller : either standalone, or as part of most decent ECUs. There's a positive feed to the solenoid which the ECU can switch to ground rapidly to control how much air the solenoid bleeds off. Because most decent ECUs have a lot more data (engine RPM, current boost, wheel speed, gear, throttle position etc), they normally allow much more control, so you can tune how the boost is delivered, reduce the power in lower gears, run more in the midrange and less top end to put less stress on the engine etc etc
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