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Post by scottydugg on Jun 10, 2019 10:30:54 GMT
Idly browsing Facebook yesterday afternoon and what do I spot, someone wanting rid of a mk2 1.8 engine before it goes in the skip. Queue me jumping in the car with tools and zooming off to pick up a new to me head assembly. So I'm now the proud owner of a BP4W head assembly for the princely sum of £0.00!!! Now to get it stripped, any recommendations for what tool for removing the valves? Also, thinking of buying this head gasket set from Autolink (https://www.autolinkmx5.com/head-gasket-set-mazda-mx-5-18-mk1--mk2-1993-2000-2061-p.asp) as it has everything I need and more. Once the heads stripped, I'll start trying to port it, thanks to the recent threads by schercheeroo. I have a few questions I'll just post in here, try keep everything together. |
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Post by Whistler on Jun 10, 2019 19:38:42 GMT
Now to get it stripped, any recommendations for what tool for removing the valves? I've used one of these for 20 years.  Most people use this type.  |
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Post by Whistler on Jun 10, 2019 19:52:58 GMT
Once the heads stripped, I'll start trying to port it, thanks to the recent threads by schercheeroo . Just for reference, before you go at your head hard with a die grinder remember where the water jackets are.   |
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Post by scottydugg on Nov 28, 2019 14:48:42 GMT
Just to update this, I've since sourced some parts for the swap: BP4W head, Mk2.5 "flat top" inlet manifold, all gaskets/seals, quote for a skim (20-30 thou = £60.00).
I started stripping the head earlier in the year, the only thing left to do is remove the exhaust valves/springs. I bought the wrong sized valve spring compressor so had to butcher a socket to get it to work, speed things up and give me a chance of re-assembling later.
I've managed to get a spot in a local dyno day this Sunday, so should get a figure of where it's at just now before any head swapping occurs. Unfortunately I'll be the only non German car there (also read as slowest).
Hopefully get some progress over the next couple months, but with house decorating and impending rust repair pre-MOT this will likely be pushed back till next year.
I've got some photos I'll post up of the head condition when I get a chance.
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Post by scottydugg on Dec 3, 2019 12:55:07 GMT
As promised, dyno day attended on Sunday, I was the only Japanese car there in the sea of German. As a point of reference, the mods are as follows: 94' Import 1.8 w/stock BP05 head, 421 MX5 Manifold, Decat, MX5 Parts Cat-Back, ARC Chamber, Randall Intake (K&N Apollo), 14 Degree Timing Mod, 5 Speed with 4.1 Torsen, Lightened Flywheel.  VID_50100926_162354_822 by Scott Reid, on Flickr  IMG_20191201_115416 by Scott Reid, on Flickr 141.1 BHP @6400rpm / 124.2 lb-ft @5540rpm, 0.95 correction factor as it was freezing! (should be 131/114 as standard). I was advised it's a healthy looking graph, hopefully it'll be useful to others. I'll go back to the same dyno once the head swap is completed for a direct comparison.  FB_IMG_1575322680728 by Scott Reid, on Flickr |
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Post by wannabe on Dec 3, 2019 16:25:23 GMT
I'll go back to the same dyno once the head swap is completed for a direct comparison. Empirical data analysis on the interweb? It'll never catch on   |
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Post by scottydugg on Dec 20, 2019 15:08:20 GMT
Spent some more time stripping down to the BP4W head, which is now completely apart and ready for a skim.  IMG_20191219_000416 by Scott Reid, on Flickr I've been doing more reading on how much to skim it and I'm still unsure how much to go for, 40 thou seems a good figure. Realistically will I be able to FI with the car in the future? Not for a couple years at best. Regardless, I finally looked at the flat top inlet manifold I picked up earlier in the year. The previous owner had gone wild with the blue goo gasket.....it was everywhere, horrible stuff!  IMG_20191219_001720 by Scott Reid, on Flickr  IMG_20191219_230518 by Scott Reid, on Flickr The metal gasket that separates the top from bottom chamber is covered in gasket gloop, I'd be worried whilst cleaning it off that I'd wreck it, but they're £30 for a replacement. What to do? The idea is to get the head in for a skim in January. |
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Post by atlex on Dec 20, 2019 15:32:33 GMT
clean it with a plastic scraper. ^
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Post by Zed. on Dec 20, 2019 16:50:52 GMT
The metal gasket that separates the top from bottom chamber is covered in gasket gloop, I'd be worried whilst cleaning it off that I'd wreck it, but they're £30 for a replacement. What to do? soak in petrol or celilose thinners? fire? DYNAMITE?? 
or as suggested by atlex use a soft scraper (personally, I use a 'stanley-knife' blade to clean surfaces BUT thats MY choice) Rich. |
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Post by atlex on Dec 20, 2019 17:41:28 GMT
even an old credit card might help. or the end of some appropriately shaped wood... the exposed ends of wood fibre are really good at scraping gunk off metal parts. you can use a toothpick on small things or, say, something like a wooden cooking spatula on bigger things.
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Post by scottydugg on Dec 22, 2019 9:42:15 GMT
Thanks guys will try some of the above.
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Post by wannabe on Dec 22, 2019 21:55:53 GMT
even an old credit card might help. or the end of some appropriately shaped wood... the exposed ends of wood fibre are really good at scraping gunk off metal parts. you can use a toothpick on small things or, say, something like a wooden cooking spatula on bigger things. I used the slightly pointed end of the wooden handle on a basting brush on my piston tops |
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Post by scottydugg on Jan 6, 2020 14:18:24 GMT
Thanks all will get it cleaned up and re-used.
Now that the heads ready for skimming, do I want to lap the valves before or after the skim?
Also, for valve stem seals, do I need a tool for this or is there a bodge alternative I can use?
I'll inevitably have more questions as this moves along, but thanks for the on-going help.
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Post by Zed. on Jan 6, 2020 15:47:30 GMT
for valve stem seals, do I need a tool for this or is there a bodge alternative I can use? to remove or replace? for removal I made a tool from an old 'longnose' pliers by adding weld to the end of the 'nos' (on inside) to create a 'grip'... as to fitting, I use a suitable double-depth socket, that fits over the seal  Rich. |
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Post by scottydugg on Jan 6, 2020 16:24:16 GMT
for valve stem seals, do I need a tool for this or is there a bodge alternative I can use? to remove or replace? for removal I made a tool from an old 'longnose' pliers by adding weld to the end of the 'nos' (on inside) to create a 'grip'... as to fitting, I use a suitable double-depth socket, that fits over the seal Rich. Sorry should have said replace, perfect I'm sure I've got a double socket I can use, thanks. I used needle nose pliers to remove the, I hope I've not damaged anything on the valves seat. Worth getting the machine shop to check when they skim |
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le sigh