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Post by jackyboy on Nov 18, 2017 22:53:35 GMT
I keep umming and arring about going turbo. Im not convinced its reliable atall enough for a genuine daily driver. Im talking 110 miles a week commuting. 6am cold starts without fail. Normal running at idle. Good fuel economy. Sitting in stop start traffic for 40 minutes at a time on uphills for sometimes riding the clutch for 5 minutes here and there. Bombing to wales every few months. Constant 3 hours fast road driving at 5am including a roads b roads and motorway. Traffic on the way back. Sometimes stop start on the motorway. Driving to and from trackdays and actiondays every other month about 2 to 3 hours eachway. Then on trackdays pounding around all day hard without a hint of a glitch. Could anyone guarantee the same high level of reliability of an na engine with a turbo setup?
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Post by atlex on Nov 19, 2017 13:59:08 GMT
as long as your oil and water fittings are well done, and the tuning is done correctly.. :-)
if you commute I recommend not going paddle clutch, but you still need a "better than OEM" organic.
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Post by FFS Corders on Nov 19, 2017 17:00:10 GMT
If you get it done as a safe tune rather than trying to max out the potential of the components, you should be able to daily it without too much stress
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Post by jackyboy on Nov 19, 2017 20:47:06 GMT
Does skuzzle do a stop start traffic tune??
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Post by jackyboy on May 27, 2018 9:10:04 GMT
Supercharging seems like a safer bet. My mates cooling is perfect š¤
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Post by jackyboy on Jul 29, 2019 19:29:20 GMT
My earth strap snapped which fried battery and alternator and various fuses. Which led to bore wash when the ecu wasn't getting enough voltage to run the car properly.
Alt changed earth strap changed new battery.. fingers crossed it'll be reliable again.
BUT I'm putting the earth strap snapping down to the extra torque on the engine and old engine mounts??
Only after smaller pully and stage 2 competition clutch this has happened. Didn't have any problems at 169bhp but now it's 190bhp on a cold day.
I suppose you can do it reliably bit need to counter in ALL factors of extra wear and tear from the torque.
Even my exhaust system standard with decat and back box I keep blowing gaskets from down pipe to decat.
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Post by moclan on Jul 30, 2019 11:11:38 GMT
This makes me want (need ) a blink stage 1
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lowender
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Post by lowender on Jul 30, 2019 11:37:30 GMT
This makes me want (need ) a blink stage 1 I have a Blink stage 1, with lightweight flywheel, RB exhaust manifold and custom cat-back. Totally reliable so far (2 years). It's probably somewhere around 150bhp-160bhp at the fly, so not particularly powerful, but very responsive and a lot more torque. I can thrash it all day at the track, and the next day cruise down to Cornwall or wherever in a relatively civilised manner. The car weighs 950kg which helps. If I wanted more power, I'd probably stay n/a and go for a KL V6, more cost effective than stage 2 with throttle bodies, and more civilised to drive in traffic.
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Post by atlex on Jul 30, 2019 13:36:56 GMT
This makes me want (need ) a blink stage 1 I have a Blink stage 1, with lightweight flywheel, RB exhaust manifold and custom cat-back. Totally reliable so far (2 years). It's probably somewhere around 150bhp-160bhp at the fly, so not particularly powerful, but very responsive and a lot more torque. I can thrash it all day at the track, and the next day cruise down to Cornwall or wherever in a relatively civilised manner. The car weighs 950kg which helps. If I wanted more power, I'd probably stay n/a and go for a KL V6, more cost effective than stage 2 with throttle bodies, and more civilised to drive in traffic. Probably the maximum fun tune you'll get :-)
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Post by jackyboy on Jul 30, 2019 22:20:55 GMT
Ohhhh I dunno. Supercharger torque gets me tingling it's like a power plate/shunt train. Pulls in any gear at any speed. Looking forward to driving it properly tomorrow now me and my mate have "seemingly" fixed the battery drain issues. I think all the things that go wrong can be prevented with sc builds. Just takes alot of mistakes to learn this š
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Post by scottydugg on Jul 31, 2019 8:51:41 GMT
Realistically, going to an aftermarket ECU, how much of a bump will that give on a standard car?
Going any form of FI it'll be required, but if you add that as an additional stage maybe it'll assist deciding which way to go (ITB, FI, NA).
For me personally, perhaps it's the next logical step, considering all the minor mods I've sunk into it so far.
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Post by swordspork on Jul 31, 2019 13:19:21 GMT
I was told I'd see 5bhp or more by getting an ECU on my standard engine. Not sure it's worth it but it will improve engine response especially if you have an early car without the TPS.
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Post by wannabe on Jul 31, 2019 15:06:02 GMT
Might it also improve fuel consumption, given the 1.6s fire either all injectors at the same time or in banks of two?? (I may have that totally incorrect )
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Post by jackyboy on Jul 31, 2019 22:31:49 GMT
You won't notice anything with standalone ecu if you havent got boost etc..apart from an inferior start up and idle lol
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jon
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Post by jon on Aug 1, 2019 6:25:35 GMT
A good ECU well setup will start up and idle the same if not better than standard.
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