|
|
Post by atlex on Aug 19, 2016 12:58:50 GMT
most of the fast road stuff is in the toe settings, I think, if you want more neutral handling (and better fuel economy on motorways?) dial it so there's neutral toe.
|
|
|
|
Post by V6 on Aug 19, 2016 13:03:47 GMT
Thanks! This is all over my head, so to have all your experience and input is great.
|
|
|
|
Post by myothercarsa2cv on Aug 19, 2016 13:04:10 GMT
I've not seen the limits of my car yet so can't comment on what it's like at that end of the spectrum. My gut says that the limit of the car is much higher than my own ability though!
|
|
|
|
Post by V6 on Aug 19, 2016 13:14:09 GMT
I think my chassis is certainly more capable than myself right now. What is limiting me to an extent is:
1. A lack of visibility on the road ahead, bends coming up, so keeping almost sensible.
2. I'd like stronger brakes as they do require some shove when really pressing on.
3. I am new to this car so need a bit more time to find where the limits are. I've not found them yet. Brakes aside.
|
|
|
|
Post by Rickster on Oct 7, 2016 16:10:52 GMT
To revive this subject i was chatting at the weekend to some of the chaps who use their 5s on track and Autosolo etc
They recommended these (949):-
SuperMiata Dual Duty Alignment (cars that see regular street use and some track/autocross)
In general, the Dual Duty alignment is intended for cars that will occasionally reach the limits of traction and slide the tires but don't want to give up too much tire wear for daily driving.
>=12" front ride height (measured hub center to fender)
>=4.75" front pinch weld height
Front camber: -2° (or as close as you can get to it)
Caster: >4°
Front total toe: 0
Rear camber : -1.7°
Rear total toe: 0 for track use. + 1/8" for autocross
Also I was thinking about uprated ARBs - I dont want too hard a ride, would it be worth fitting front or rear or both - consider I have mk2 suspension (1 coil off)
Comments/ideas?
|
|
|
|
Post by Rickster on Oct 7, 2016 16:18:38 GMT
Just seen how much a set of uprated ARBs cost - think I can live without them!!!!!!
|
|
|
|
Post by Horney on Oct 7, 2016 16:31:14 GMT
I have the Jackson Racing ARBs from Moss. I rate them highly and good VFM.
|
|
|
|
Post by Horney on Oct 7, 2016 16:32:20 GMT
Those alignment setting sound horrible for UK roads. No toe on front and rear will make for a twitchy car on our bumpy straight bits.
|
|
|
|
Post by Rickster on Oct 7, 2016 17:24:20 GMT
Those alignment setting sound horrible for UK roads. No toe on front and rear will make for a twitchy car on our bumpy straight bits. Interesting, so in other words -car will be wanting to go where our crappy roads take it!!? |
|
|
|
Post by sandys on Oct 7, 2016 17:32:30 GMT
To revive this subject i was chatting at the weekend to some of the chaps who use their 5s on track and Autosolo etc They recommended these (949):- SuperMiata Dual Duty Alignment (cars that see regular street use and some track/autocross) In general, the Dual Duty alignment is intended for cars that will occasionally reach the limits of traction and slide the tires but don't want to give up too much tire wear for daily driving. >=12" front ride height (measured hub center to fender) >=4.75" front pinch weld height Front camber: -2° (or as close as you can get to it) Caster: >4° Front total toe: 0 Rear camber : -1.7° Rear total toe: 0 for track use. + 1/8" for autocross Also I was thinking about uprated ARBs - I dont want too hard a ride, would it be worth fitting front or rear or both - consider I have mk2 suspension (1 coil off) Comments/ideas? Possibly a typo, but you wouldn't go positive toe at the rear for Solo, you might for rear stability at high speed on track maybe but 0 should be fine front and rear, you might likes some neg toe up front for solo but it might then be a bit much on road. Camber doesn't seem aggressive enough, front is passable, probably work with -0.5-1 extra on the rear. I have zero toe all around, car is fine but it's a mk3 but do admit that I don't mind a car that moves about, not that I notice it doing so, not like my Punto which will move at a leaf  |
|
|
|
Post by Rickster on Oct 7, 2016 17:55:35 GMT
one of the chaps - cant remember which one did say he was running -2 camber front and rear and said others go higher than that but thats the max for the setup of his car.
Prob trial and error!!
|
|
|
|
Post by Rickster on Oct 7, 2016 17:59:28 GMT
so sandy youd be something like this?
AKAutomotive
Front
Camber - 2.25-2.5 degrees
Caster - MAX
Toe - 0
Rear
Camber - 1.5-2 degrees
Toe - 0 (little toe in)
|
|
|
|
Post by sandys on Oct 7, 2016 18:49:27 GMT
To be honest I shouldn't comment not having a mk1 and not being a suspension guru but that seems more like it but I guess it'll come down to the state of your car and the quality of the rubber.
I certainly tried a few setups on my mk3 until I found one that suited me, on my mk3 I am at something like toe 0 f/r, camber f:-2.3 / r: -2.6, castor (don't recall 5-6ish) ride height between stock and Mazda eibach setup, so not overly low, seems to work.
|
|
|
|
Post by Horney on Oct 7, 2016 19:05:46 GMT
A lot of it personal preference. Some people prefer a loose rear end and others don't. Whatever someone suggests take it as a base line and tweak until it suits your style.
|
|
|
|
Post by Rickster on Oct 7, 2016 19:48:21 GMT
A lot of it personal preference. Some people prefer a loose rear end and others don't. Whatever someone suggests take it as a base line and tweak until it suits your style. Not sure about a loose rear end!!!!!!!!! |
|
le sigh
Jul 15, 2023 20:03:52 GMT
le sigh
Jul 15, 2023 20:03:52 GMT