tsp
Chats A Lot
Posts: 439
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Post by tsp on Oct 4, 2017 20:20:01 GMT
I'm in the process of putting together a Randall intake using my standard air box. Would it be beneficial to to modify the air box or not? I know it'll sound better but would it be best to just leave the box as it is? My theory is that the air will be forced into the back and then out the side rather than into the engine? Or am I waaaay off?
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Post by atlex on Oct 4, 2017 21:49:55 GMT
drill a big hole to hook up to the randal hole ? :-) but nothing else..
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Post by FFS Corders on Oct 5, 2017 8:06:47 GMT
Drilling the Airbox will only change the noise, it won't improve its performance
However if it is a 1.6 with an AFM, you can get the spring modified which along with optimised timing adjustment will make a difference
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tsp
Chats A Lot
Posts: 439
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Post by tsp on Oct 5, 2017 9:08:08 GMT
I do plan on getting that done... While I figure out what to ultimately aim for. You've all been helpful with that in another post I just wondered whether opening the air box would have a negative effect?
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Post by FFS Corders on Oct 5, 2017 9:16:04 GMT
First sentence of my last reply
As you said yourself, you are getting a great supply of air from the cowl which will go to the airbox and find holes drilled into it, so is less likely to then reach the engine
If you are really unsure, ask the person you are getting the AFM mod from and they will have ideas for what can help or not
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Post by atlex on Oct 5, 2017 9:33:53 GMT
or to sum it up.. drilling the airbox for anything but a hole to connect directly to the randal will result in worse, not better, performance.
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tsp
Chats A Lot
Posts: 439
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Post by tsp on Oct 5, 2017 9:34:29 GMT
I'll go in to see Skuzzle. Best way really as you say. Thanks
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Post by Dweenimus on Oct 5, 2017 14:39:09 GMT
or to sum it up.. drilling the airbox for anything but a hole to connect directly to the randal will result in worse, not better, performance. My drilled airbox didn't even make a sound difference. Well it might have, but can't hear it over my exhaust!
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Post by lowender on Oct 5, 2017 19:49:35 GMT
The point of a cowl intake is to get cold air. Drilling the box will just draw hot air in from the engine bay, defeating the purpose of the cowl intake.
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Post by melx5 on Oct 6, 2017 5:40:54 GMT
I wonder how much difference the randel mod makes to intake temps, or more to point, performance. Being a lazy twat I drove my car around with no electric windows for 4 years and anytime I had to drive it with the roof up the air coming from the scuttle area ( I know it passed by the heater matrix) was enough to cook you, even with the fan on full.
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Post by FFS Corders on Oct 6, 2017 6:41:04 GMT
I'm sure miata.net or miataturbo have looked into in before. There is info out there for it anyway
It is a recommended way of getting an induction kit that actually does something so people have seen benefits from it
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Post by lowender on Oct 6, 2017 13:29:40 GMT
Datalogging shows me intake temps of around ambient on a spirited run with the cowl intake. Didn't get the megasquirt until after the intake, so I can't compare directly to the standard intake, but I suspect they would be somewhat higher, the engine compartment holds a lot of heat even on the move.
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Post by martiny on Oct 16, 2017 9:42:31 GMT
I have data: Many years ago I stuck a remote temperature gauge up the standard intake on mine and found that just driving around town at 30 the intake air was about 20° hotter than ambient.
(It was an experiment to see if headlight cover intakes were worthwhile. I found that removing the headlight cover entirely only dropped the temps a couple of degrees but popping up the headlights dropped temps almost to ambient. Concluded that only a scoop type intake vent that stuck up into the airflow was likely to be effective, which was annoying because I thought the NACA duct flush style looked pretty cool.)
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