Post by atlex on Sept 14, 2016 10:55:35 GMT
OK so I recently did this 
Here's a list of what I got.. and the options I went with.
2x night running/brake lights: 1157 P21/5W - this most complex bulb, has two lives - see the bottom - *not* the same as a 1156 P21W .. but about the same size.
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172081516919
1x high-level brake light: T10 501 - you want one as bright as possible so that you don't get rear-ended by people who shouldn't legally be allowed to drive.
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172256353954
7x (2 reverse, 2 turn and 2 license plate and optionally 1 Foglight) 1156 P21W
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172082848214
( also consider 2x of these 1156 bulbs www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171924416092 as brighter alternatives for turn signals - they are not classified as P21W because the P21W is a shorter bulb )
Fitting: Mostly very simple, just unscrew the holders and replace the bulbs, then put them back in. You will need to remove some poppets to get at the license plate lights but the rest should be easily reachable.
License Plate Light Signal Polarity issues:
On the license plate lights the polarity is the wrong way around for LED to work. To solve this you need to take a pin to the iso connector and switch the leads around - live with earth. The metal ISO leads are trapped in the clip by a little plastic tab within each hole of the connector. You can depress the tab with a (very) small screwdriver or better a straightened paperclip, and pull each lead out.. then put them back in the other way around - switch the live with the earth. You do this in the front of the connector. Takes no time if you've done it before and know how these work. You can use the one you haven't done (or have done
) as a guide on what to change or what to copy.
High Brakelight Polarity issues:
Polarity on the 501 bulbs you can't tell since both sides are identical and symmetrical... so you have to test this, with someone sticking their foot on the brakes. Alternatively, get a brick or stick or broom handle to depress it. If the bulb doesn't work, just turn it around in the fitting.
Turn Signal Hyperblink:
Hyperblink ain't so bad. You will need a resistor to be wired in, in-line, if you can't live with "hyperblink" (the flicker goes faster because the LED presents so little resistance, generally a sign that a bulb has gone in incandescent bulb setups) - I don't know which resistor to use but they are very, very cheap at maplins/RS. I used a jass flasher module to solve this, but if you like the OEM signal sound, I recommend the resistor method.
Congrats you now have LED rear lights. Enjoy blinding people.
Here's a list of what I got.. and the options I went with.
2x night running/brake lights: 1157 P21/5W - this most complex bulb, has two lives - see the bottom - *not* the same as a 1156 P21W .. but about the same size.
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172081516919
1x high-level brake light: T10 501 - you want one as bright as possible so that you don't get rear-ended by people who shouldn't legally be allowed to drive.
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172256353954
7x (2 reverse, 2 turn and 2 license plate and optionally 1 Foglight) 1156 P21W
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172082848214
( also consider 2x of these 1156 bulbs www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171924416092 as brighter alternatives for turn signals - they are not classified as P21W because the P21W is a shorter bulb )
Fitting: Mostly very simple, just unscrew the holders and replace the bulbs, then put them back in. You will need to remove some poppets to get at the license plate lights but the rest should be easily reachable.
License Plate Light Signal Polarity issues:
On the license plate lights the polarity is the wrong way around for LED to work. To solve this you need to take a pin to the iso connector and switch the leads around - live with earth. The metal ISO leads are trapped in the clip by a little plastic tab within each hole of the connector. You can depress the tab with a (very) small screwdriver or better a straightened paperclip, and pull each lead out.. then put them back in the other way around - switch the live with the earth. You do this in the front of the connector. Takes no time if you've done it before and know how these work. You can use the one you haven't done (or have done
) as a guide on what to change or what to copy.High Brakelight Polarity issues:
Polarity on the 501 bulbs you can't tell since both sides are identical and symmetrical... so you have to test this, with someone sticking their foot on the brakes. Alternatively, get a brick or stick or broom handle to depress it. If the bulb doesn't work, just turn it around in the fitting.
Turn Signal Hyperblink:
Hyperblink ain't so bad. You will need a resistor to be wired in, in-line, if you can't live with "hyperblink" (the flicker goes faster because the LED presents so little resistance, generally a sign that a bulb has gone in incandescent bulb setups) - I don't know which resistor to use but they are very, very cheap at maplins/RS. I used a jass flasher module to solve this, but if you like the OEM signal sound, I recommend the resistor method.
Congrats you now have LED rear lights. Enjoy blinding people.
lol
it's just moving a tiny tab out the way. 
I picked up a set of these 
lol)
