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Post by atlex on Jul 7, 2018 9:47:51 GMT
those rims look the bomb on a silver car
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Post by Bilbo on Jul 9, 2018 13:23:49 GMT
those rims look the bomb on a silver car I agree. Definitely the right choice. Though when I do the rust repairs I was thinking of respraying the car as the paint isn't very good. Was thinking of a dark purple maybe.
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Post by Bilbo on Jul 24, 2018 12:30:30 GMT
So yeah I broke it again. Heater hose split, so I bought a full set of Stoney Racing silicone hoses in purple. So far I've only replaced the one split one, here's a terrible photo: IMG_20180718_203938 by Chris Oldham, on Flickr They look awesome, though apparently they fade quite quick, oh well. In my infinite wisdom I thought I'd just pop the one hose off I needed to change without draining the coolant. You know, like you do with the top hose, then just top it up and let the air come out. IMG_20180718_203942 by Chris Oldham, on Flickr Yeah nah that doesn't work with the heater hose, it just came out, shot out, like two litres of "coolant" (very brown, not really coolant). So it all spilled out on my wideband sensor and I got scared it would break, but luckily it's fine so far. I topped it up with tap water because it's temporary and probably better than the lightly oil filmed mess of rust water with little bits of god knows what in it that went all over the driveway. Doing a full coolant flush this weekend and fitting the rest of the hoses. Can't believe I've left the coolant this long, it's proper grim.
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Post by Zed. on Jul 24, 2018 12:49:49 GMT
if you are draining the coolant system to swap hoses, have a looksee at the 'seal' on the metal heaterpipe from the waterpump outlet below the exhaust manifold... also, inspect the steel bottom rad pipe joiner & heater pipe for rust & the 'tee' on the thertmostat housing and maybe get brave enough to tackle that 'devil' plug at . the rear of the head by the inlet manifold (below the CAS) Rich.
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Post by wannabe on Jul 24, 2018 12:55:45 GMT
and maybe get brave enough to tackle that 'devil' plug at . the rear of the head by the inlet manifold (below the CAS)
I did mine without even taking anything off around it - it's really not that difficult if you have normal size hands and arms and aren't built like a brick outhouse lol
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Post by Zed. on Jul 24, 2018 13:32:08 GMT
it's really not that difficult if you have normal size hands and arms and aren't built like a brick outhouse lol how about if you've got 'welders' hands & maybe no sensation in your left index finger from when it was glued back on okey, so maybe I'm making excuses........ I will say that removing the coilpack (from a 1.6 engine) makes lots more room to get at the heater pipe - was handy as I've converted to 'Coil-On-Plug' Rich.
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Post by Bilbo on Jul 24, 2018 13:43:03 GMT
Urgh, hoping nothing else breaks while I'm at it. I'll make sure to check everything out. I really should just do a cambelt and all the seals but that's mad effort haha. Well hopefully it will all hold, and if not then black silicone sealant will have to work to get me to Beaulieu and back this weekend!
It's currently not leaking, and the new hoses come with jubilee type stainless clamps, which seem very good and aren't a total nightmare like those finger destroying push clip things are haha.
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Post by wannabe on Jul 24, 2018 13:56:06 GMT
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Post by Bilbo on Jul 31, 2018 12:13:50 GMT
Changed my hoses, well all apart from two or three of them. One was too tight behind the new TPS and I just couldn't be bothered, and the others weren't visible really so I just left those for another day haha. Did a coolant change, and oh my god the stuff that came out was immense: IMG_20180727_174117_365 by Chris Oldham, on Flickr IMG_20180727_123042 by Chris Oldham, on Flickr Mmmm rust and Legionnaires disease, yum. Throw some Cholera in there too. Top stuff. Replaced with Comma Super Coldmaster Ethylene Glycol based stuff, with de-ionised water. Unfortunately while I did a bit of a flush I didn't do it well enough and the coolant is still brown. Oh well, at least it's actually got coolant in it now instead of three litres of tap water mixed with whatever the hell that brown stuff was. Looks good with the new hoses: IMG_20180727_174117_361 by Chris Oldham, on Flickr Next plan is cut cam cover in wrinkle black, black heatshield, and then maybe the inlet manifold too if I can be bothered to take it off. I have been eyeing up some ITBs, might try and make some DIY GSXR ones with a cut 1.6 manifold. Could be a laugh, or a disaster, who knows!
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Post by Zed. on Jul 31, 2018 13:34:45 GMT
Changed my hoses, well all apart from two or three of them. One was too tight behind the new TPS and I just couldn't be bothered, and the others weren't visible really so I just left those for another day haha. I have been eyeing up some ITBs, might try and make some DIY GSXR ones with a cut 1.6 manifold. Could be a laugh, or a disaster, who knows! beware of the pipe from the isv to the front of the inlet maniflold, one you cannot see but it cracks & the steel pipe-stub on the manifold can rot away I removed all the pipes from the thermostat to the inlet manifold via the 'thermo-valve & the isv / throttle-body, also plugged the isv as a pre-turbo cleanup. discovered some rotten metal pipe stubs while I was there, to access I removed the inlet-pipe & unbolted the throttle-body from the inlet manifold (silicone gasket to the rescue...) also blanked the 'thermo-valve' thinngy on the inlet manifold, much neatness now as to the throttle-bodies, watching with intrest... Rich.
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Post by FFS Corders on Aug 1, 2018 9:18:23 GMT
pro-tip for coolant flush:
fully remove the radiator, stick a hose in one end, other in a bucket, then have it it for a good 5 mins until it's come out clear for a good while
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Post by scottydugg on Aug 1, 2018 9:27:31 GMT
pro-tip for coolant flush: fully remove the radiator, stick a hose in one end, other in a bucket, then have it it for a good 5 mins until it's come out clear for a good while Can also be done at the heater matrix, if it requires some additional love
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Post by Bilbo on Aug 1, 2018 11:59:06 GMT
Changed my hoses, well all apart from two or three of them. One was too tight behind the new TPS and I just couldn't be bothered, and the others weren't visible really so I just left those for another day haha. I have been eyeing up some ITBs, might try and make some DIY GSXR ones with a cut 1.6 manifold. Could be a laugh, or a disaster, who knows! beware of the pipe from the isv to the front of the inlet maniflold, one you cannot see but it cracks & the steel pipe-stub on the manifold can rot away I removed all the pipes from the thermostat to the inlet manifold via the 'thermo-valve & the isv / throttle-body, also plugged the isv as a pre-turbo cleanup. discovered some rotten metal pipe stubs while I was there, to access I removed the inlet-pipe & unbolted the throttle-body from the inlet manifold (silicone gasket to the rescue...) also blanked the 'thermo-valve' thinngy on the inlet manifold, much neatness now as to the throttle-bodies, watching with intrest... Rich. Cheers for the heads up, I haven't encountered any issues like that with the ones I have done. Did my best to clean up the hard lines where the hoses clamp on, they were really crusty. I'm too scared to touch my thermostat housing too much haha, heard a lot of stories of them braking and new ones aren't cheap! As for ITBs, not sure yet, but just been doing a bit of research into the GSXR ones, looks like it could be not too much trouble to get installed, just the mapping is the hard bit, never touched Alpha-N before.
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Post by Bilbo on Aug 1, 2018 12:02:16 GMT
pro-tip for coolant flush: fully remove the radiator, stick a hose in one end, other in a bucket, then have it it for a good 5 mins until it's come out clear for a good while Can also be done at the heater matrix, if it requires some additional love See this was my biggest mistake. In my effort to get all the hoses done and the coolant changed, I was flushing it through the top hose into the engine, so the engine was flushed out a bit, but I only put a little bit through the actual radiator, so there was obviously still a load of crap sat in there. Weird as the radiator doesn't look particularly old, and there are remnants of an old coolant look from before I owned it, where it looks like coolant went bang a bit at the front of the engine. I assume it's been changed, though not sure when as there's no receipt for it. However the coolant in there was super grim, looked like it could have been in there from new it was so bad. I'm going to flush it all again when I do the cambelt, so I'll let this sit in there for a while, at least it actually has proper coolant and de-ionised water in it now!
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Post by Bilbo on Aug 1, 2018 12:28:36 GMT
Ok so I've been doing a fair bit of reading up on ITBs, including this thread here, very useful: mighty5s.com/thread/67/itbsI'm not after something off the shelf, it's a load of cash and as ever I want to see if I can make something work DIY. Feel free to comment that it doesn't add much power and err mer gerd just turbo it etc. So the list of parts I've worked out I'll need so far: Standard 1.6 manifold (cut down). GSXR 600 throttle bodies with TPS. Vacuum block and vac lines for brake booster and MAP line for ECU (though will map the car in Alpha-N). New throttle cable? Brackets/runners etc. for moving throttle cable position. Catch can for breather line from cam cover. Either: Silicone joiners and Mikalor clamps to connect TBs to the manifold. or (preferably) a set of flanges to weld onto the TBs and manifold, less chance of vac leaks this way I imagine. From watching some ITB builds online, four potential issues: 1) Some ITB parts may foul the alternator bracket, which may need to be modified. 2) Standard 1.6 fuel rail lines may foul ITBs and need to be modified. 3) Matching shape of ports between TBs and manifold. 4) Some brake/fuel lines/parts may be in the way and need moving depending on the size of trumpets used. This is just a rough list of what I can think of, any thoughts form people who have done ITBs would be appreciated!
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