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Post by Bilbo on Jan 21, 2017 4:13:46 GMT
Right so after having a better look at my new 5 I've noticed there's a few small bits of rust on the arch/sill lip. I've had rust before, quite badly, so I know this time it's looking much better.
Basically there's a few small individual patches across the outer part of the arch lip. The original spot welds are present, it's all original by the looks of it. The inner lips feel smooth and rust free.
I don't have any experience fixing rust myself. So what I was thinking is can I mask up the area, and rub back the blemishes, put some rust killer on, and then prime/spray back to original colour? The arches themselves and sills are clean with no signs of any rust problems, so I really want to just sort these small areas before they get any worse.
Can anyone recommend a better solution if my idea is not a good one?
Edit: I know these tend to rust from the inside out but the lips don't feel bulged/bloating out like my old ones did at all, the only signs of it are the blemishes on the outer lip as mentioned, the metal in the affected area still feels solid when I had a poke around.
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Post by wannabe on Jan 23, 2017 17:49:51 GMT
Can you get a boroscope (or whatever they are called) to plug into a laptop and feed down the holes near the B pillar, so you can see what the sills look like from the inside?
I wouldn't trust myself doing anything bodywork related, I'd never get the finish I wanted! lol
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Post by atlex on Jan 23, 2017 21:04:40 GMT
if you don't think it needs replacing, and it is just surface... and it isn't visibile.. well... no need for welding, right ? Bottom of the sills aren't that visible and you can easily get away with a DIY hammerite finish If you can reach it, wire brush (or carefully with a wire head for a drill!) followed by hammerite or equivalent paint then a sealant over that (belt and braces). (Dinitrol/Bilthamber/S50) For sills which you can't reach inside with anything big like a wire brush and paint can .. you can spray ACF50 (lighter than the Dinitrol/S50) up the drain holes in the jacking points. If you can't fit the little plastic sprayer up you should probably drill them out anyway to aid drainage then then spray enough in that it starts leaking out the other jacking point. the lighter stuff will wick all over the inside. ( Unless you've got a special free supply of waxoyl and a love of that prarrie canoe, don't bother, it's not as good as the above products. )
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Post by Bilbo on Jan 24, 2017 22:30:06 GMT
Good shout on the boroscope, will try and source one and take a look.
To be honest Atlex I'm still not 100% sure on it. At the very rear of the arch, right near the rear bumper, it's the worst. Looks a bit more rusty there, but still not all that bad, and the inner lip feels solid and smooth. I want to get it up on stands and wash all the crap off the lips and around the arches, it can't be doing it any good. I'll have a good poke around and see what's what when I can.
It's literally just the arch lips that are showing, the sills themselves look and feel nice and solid. I will find a way to clean it up, and then I'll get some Dinitrol around the arches, and sort out the cavity protection, and also protect the front chassis rails. I'm used to bad chassis rails after two mk2s, so it's nice to see just a tiny bit of surface rust on them on this one!
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