|
|
Post by atlex on May 30, 2018 16:34:58 GMT
I think you might make more power with a leccy fan btw ^.
|
|
|
|
Post by joeytalent on May 30, 2018 16:43:07 GMT
I think you might make more power with a leccy fan btw ^. I'm already looking at a 2 x 12" electric fan conversion with an aluminium shroud. It'll save my knuckles getting bashed if nothing else! |
|
|
|
Post by joeytalent on May 30, 2018 18:26:39 GMT
edit: Didn't realise it was a video!! Don't think they're embeddable. I'll have to put it onto YouTube first I think. I'll take my proper camera and tripod (or my Jeep bonnet) and do a proper video once the engine has warmed up and I can make some more noises. I'm also going to clean it and get some outdoor shots and do a big write up soon. It's by no means finished (is any car ever?), but I think it's good enough to drive at least! |
|
|
|
Post by joeytalent on May 31, 2018 20:47:34 GMT
I've had the car out a couple of times, but the ECU isn't up to the task of dealing with fuelling for ITBs. I'd suspected this might be the case, but the company I bought it from convinced me otherwise.
The problem is that the ECU uses a Speed Density algorithm for calculating how much fuel to inject, based on the engine load which is determined from the manifold pressure. This works great on a single TB system, as the manifold air pressure is a reliable indicator of engine load... but for ITBs, it isn't. On the 280Z, engine load was being calculated at about 30% at idle, then with less than 5% throttle, it would shoot up to 100%+. That obviously won't work, because there's 95% of the throttle that now isn't covered by the engine load calculation. This lead to my engine being OMG SUPER RICH on everything other than idle.
I got in contact with the ECU manufacturer, who basically told me what I'd already figured out, and that an Alpha-N (entirely throttle position based) ECU would be needed. I put my order in, and I'll try and sell the original ECU (it's actually a nice bit of kit, just not for ITBs) to make some money back. Thankfully the new ECU is a drop in replacement, so no wiring changes.
|
|
|
|
Post by atlex on May 31, 2018 20:58:30 GMT
why would they sell an ECU that only does one or the other ? that's just weird.
|
|
|
|
Post by NurseHolliday on May 31, 2018 21:34:21 GMT
I've had the car out a couple of times, but the ECU isn't up to the task of dealing with fuelling for ITBs. I'd suspected this might be the case, but the company I bought it from convinced me otherwise. The problem is that the ECU uses a Speed Density algorithm for calculating how much fuel to inject, based on the engine load which is determined from the manifold pressure. This works great on a single TB system, as the manifold air pressure is a reliable indicator of engine load... but for ITBs, it isn't. On the 280Z, engine load was being calculated at about 30% at idle, then with less than 5% throttle, it would shoot up to 100%+. That obviously won't work, because there's 95% of the throttle that now isn't covered by the engine load calculation. This lead to my engine being OMG SUPER RICH on everything other than idle. I got in contact with the ECU manufacturer, who basically told me what I'd already figured out, and that an Alpha-N (entirely throttle position based) ECU would be needed. I put my order in, and I'll try and sell the original ECU (it's actually a nice bit of kit, just not for ITBs) to make some money back. Thankfully the new ECU is a drop in replacement, so no wiring changes. oh man that's super frustrating, is the company not interested in helping you out with the sale of your basically unused ECU? |
|
|
|
Post by joeytalent on May 31, 2018 22:23:47 GMT
oh man that's super frustrating, is the company not interested in helping you out with the sale of your basically unused ECU?
why would they sell an ECU that only does one or the other ? that's just weird. Yeah, it's annoying, but I should've just done more research and bought the next ECU one up in the first place. You live and learn I guess. I doubt I'll have a problem selling the old ECU to another Z owner, along with a list of parts they need to buy to use it on their car. They're going for a good price on eBay, so I'll probably end up losing no money in the end! atlex - the ECU is an entry level one, designed to be setup once and left running to figure itself out. For most people, it would be fine, just not my use. The next one up lets you choose the tuning algorithm and opens up a load more settings anyway. Like I said; I should've just bought that one in the first place. New one arrives on Monday, it's a simple case of undoing 5 screws and swapping them over, then going through the setup with my laptop. |
|
|
|
Post by joeytalent on Jun 7, 2018 13:49:27 GMT
The new ECU arrived, and I have the car idling pretty well with an Alpha N tune. The base map is safely rich...  There's a little idle hunting going on, so I'm guessing there's an air leak somewhere to track down. I need to reduce the fuelling across the whole map, but so far I've been impressed with the new ECU. On another note, I finally signed up to Instagram: www.instagram.com/280emy/ |
|
|
|
Post by joeytalent on Jun 14, 2018 14:10:08 GMT
Really lost my motivation with this over the last couple of weeks. Work has been crazy recently, and I've had to grab the odd hour here and there to try and get anything done on the fuelling map. I really need a solid weekend where I can just do continuous runs and dial in the fuelling, but I don't think that's going to happen any time in the next month or two  |
|
|
|
Post by joeytalent on Jul 10, 2018 20:52:10 GMT
|
|
|
|
Post by joeytalent on Jul 16, 2018 2:49:10 GMT
Fitted some super cheap ram air filters until I admit to myself that a carbon airbox is the only thing that will really fit. Two fuel injectors started leading again. After pulling them out and swearing a lot, the top cushion seal is badly squished and it looks like it's also nicked the o-ring. The fuel rail has always been a Canoe, so I need to attempt a different approach. I think I'm going to try some 2mm spacers and longer bolts to give the top cushion a little more space, and hopefully it will still seal.    |
|
|
|
Post by joeytalent on Jul 16, 2018 21:56:04 GMT
|
|
|
|
Post by joeytalent on Jul 17, 2018 4:12:08 GMT
After some research online, I'm fairly convinced the holes in the fuel rail are slightly too small. I measured them all today, and they're all right around 10.5mm - I believe Denso injectors need 10.9mm. That 0.4mm *could* be enough to tear all the o-rings.
I have also purchased every single injector o-ring type under the sun to see if I can get something to fit on Wednesday.
|
|
|
|
Post by dadbif on Jul 17, 2018 6:32:04 GMT
Can you fit them to the fuel rail before fitting the rail to the car? Better access
and plenty of lubricant may help
|
|
|
|
Post by joeytalent on Jul 17, 2018 11:35:12 GMT
Can you fit them to the fuel rail before fitting the rail to the car? Better access and plenty of lubricant may help Yeah, that's what I'm going to try next. Not that hopeful though, as you can see the o-rings squishing out the sides straight away. I'm wondering it I can use a clamp to push them in with even pressure. |
|
le sigh
Jul 15, 2023 20:03:52 GMT
le sigh
Jul 15, 2023 20:03:52 GMT