3.6 torsen LSD differential MK1 & MK2

Do you know currently have the same ratio diff do you know?

Chris, you probably have a 4.3 VLSD, so you will lose acceleration going to 3.6 - perfect choice if you intend to go Turbo, but if staying NA I would personally not fit a 3.6 ratio. Your choice of course, just saying.

Just for info, in case you didn't already know, a 1989-1993 1.6 car will have a smaller diff than later cars (6" ring gear vs 7" ring gear) and so swapping in that torsen will also require swapping the driveshaft and halfshafts for the later type, which are a little shorter to accomodate the bigger differential.

I'd also note that, having run a 3.6 while supercharged and normally aspirated, you absolutely do notice that the NA car is slow off the line, but once it's moving it's fine.  You just hold the gears longer than you're used to.  With boost, it's nice to have a 1st gear you can use instead of just grabbing 2nd almost before the throttle's fully open.  Winding it out to over 60 in 2nd gear is very pleasing.

I have the drive and half shafts that came with the diff as I stripped from a doner car I had and the agreement was always that the diff would go back to the original owner. The whole setup came off a factory BBR Turbo
Please note that I've absolutely no knowledge of this type of thing and that all this is a HUGE learning curve.
Thanks

There's no gasket between the two halves - just a smear of sealant - and nothing will drop out if you open it. But there's no need to open it up to identify the type - you just need a good clear view into the axle holes;

If there's a wide open hole right through the middle then that's a type 1 torsen.
If there's a hole right through but its considerably smaller than the full width then that's a type 2 torsen.
If there's a solid bar running right across the middle of the hole and the bar is round in section then it's an open diff
If there's a bar but it's hexagonal then it's a Tojiki Fuji Super Differential.

The 3.6 you have will be a type 2, if it really is a torsen, but it might also be a Fuji misidentified as a torsen.

Hi
There is nothing wrong with the diff on my car just was told that the 3.6 was a great diff.
Have had a look through the guide link given by Atlex and just from I can gather from that is the diff is a 1.8 torsen type 1 as it has the same half shaft plates as mine.
From that link I have been able to tell that the diff on my car at the moment is the 1.6 finned cased VSLD. ( I think )
Also having read through here that the 3.6 would blunt off the line performance but enable you to take the up to 60 in 2nd does sound like fun and would that be the same for a normally aspirated 1.6 ??
Also Martiny post has got me confused (my fault not his) as cant see through diff. Something I'm missing I'm sure
As said this all new to me, but I do want to learn.
Any way have posted some pictures of the diff as a picture speaks 1000 words as they say. Don't worry about the moisture on the housing as that's just where Ive put on my home made penetrating fluid, thanks Atlex for that as well.
Thanks