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Post by wannabe on Oct 26, 2017 9:22:39 GMT
So...
Somewhat weirdly, I often find that there is no water in the header tank when I come to check it once a week or so!
The rad seems to be full and there is no mayo in the oil cap, so there are (hopefully...) no issues relating to the head gasket, but I just find it odd that the header tank is empty (sometimes to the point of being bone dry).
Skuzzle said that sometimes the pressure in the system can force it out, but at the moment the missus is mostly using it to potter around on perhaps 30 mile round trips, and I don't think she's ever gone above about 4k rpm, so it's not like it's being used hard...
I've replaced the 'cursed water plug' at the back of the engine recently but it seems dry under/around it after a run, and I don't come back to a puddle of water underneath it at any point.
All the pipes are silicon and fairly recent (<2yrs) so I don't think it would be that.
Would it therefore be a water leak somewhere??
It's not a major hassle as it needs oil once a week anyway so I can just do water at the same time, it's just annoying and I want to find out why! lol
Any thoughts gratefully received!! 
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Post by FFS Corders on Oct 26, 2017 9:34:14 GMT
if the rad is full, don't worry about it
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Post by atlex on Oct 26, 2017 11:06:04 GMT
Corderu is rightu. If you want to go one step further for the paranoia removal: Remove the header tank and connecting hose and give it all a good blast - I recommend a pressure hose and washing up liquid because dirt can settle at the bottom. Make sure water can go through the hose into the header tank via the top and it's all cleaned through. Refit it, get some of de-ionized water (or premixed/straight coolant if you have any laying about) and top the header tank up to mid-way and suggest to your mrs that she can leave it in gear longer and maybe enjoy driving  You can expect the header tank to fill up a bit once the engine is warmed through. |
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Post by wannabe on Oct 27, 2017 8:13:04 GMT
But... but... it seems wrong... LOL Thanks for the advice, though, it's much appreciated It's currently running 100% tap water since I had the cursed water plug failure - I need to get some coolant in it before winter arrives so will add it to the list for the service! The header tank has a weird sludgy brown coating in the inside since the HG failure, I should probably get a new one and be done with TBH lol The missus has already spun it once (last year after a frosty night) pulling out of a junction, and with the depowered rack the steering is heavy (even for a manly man like me  haha) so she pansies about in it usually! Want to get both of us to a handling day somewhere soon, just need to get the weird clonking from the front nearside sorted first, as it's not steering quite right... Always bloody something  lol |
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Post by atlex on Oct 27, 2017 10:48:14 GMT
all the more reason to give the header tank a good power wash! tap water. ugh. erm. yeah, you should probably flush your coolant too. canoe.  |
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Post by myothercarsa2cv on Oct 27, 2017 10:54:20 GMT
+1. Please don't use tap water. The dissolved solids will only cause problems. Think about how your kettle scales up š±
I've never had water in the header tank as far as I know. Sign of a healthy system or so I like to think.
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Post by wannabe on Oct 27, 2017 11:48:43 GMT
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Post by atlex on Oct 27, 2017 12:19:12 GMT
50/50 mix is the great for UK temps like down to -15C or so. you want weaker mix if you're in a place where it never freezes, or stronger if you're in a place where it gets to -30C !
I've generally used red coolant on my mx5s.
Don't let your header tank run dry, or you might be sucking air into your coolant system when the engine cools. Top it up with spare coolant of the same shade, or deionized water.
The normal behaviour is as the temperature increases in the engine, the coolant expands, once it reaches pressure it then pushes excess coolant into the header tank.
The reverse is the case when the engine cools down, and this is why it can introduce air into the system.
This is also why when you flush your coolant you leave the radiator cap off at first to let air bubble out. Air is a pressure "spring" and reduces the effectiveness of the coolant system.
Alex
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Post by myothercarsa2cv on Oct 27, 2017 13:04:18 GMT
Having said I don't have coolant in my header tank... I don't believe I've ever checked it hot and running š
FWIW I always use blue in the 5s, I don't suppose it matters. 50:50 for UK is fine. You can do a flush and refill at home, just store it in a bottle and take it to the tip next time you go.
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Post by melx5 on Oct 28, 2017 6:34:23 GMT
Check your hose clamps again, mine started weeping after a couple off days, also your hoses for small leaks, I had a similar problem where the header tank would slowly empty, it took weeks, bugged the hell out of me, ran it up one day and went round the hoses with some white tissue which pointed to the problem.
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Post by minty on Oct 28, 2017 7:02:10 GMT
As above if you are not overheating and have a full rad I wouldn't worry about it mate, but deffo need to flush that tap water out ASAP lol. It's also on my to do list..
Could also be caused by your exhaust, probably best to give it to me, just to be safe.
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Post by atlex on Oct 28, 2017 11:30:36 GMT
BTW if you run a tumbledrier or dehumidifier that's also a great source of deionized water.
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Post by wannabe on Oct 29, 2017 15:19:28 GMT
As above if you are not overheating and have a full rad I wouldn't worry about it mate, but deffo need to flush that tap water out ASAP lol. It's also on my to do list.. Could also be caused by your exhaust, probably best to give it to me, just to be safe.
haha
The exhaust has got louder with time, I swear! Still loving it, though
Weather today said it's going to be 2-5 degrees overnight - definitely time to get the coolant done!!
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Post by wannabe on Oct 29, 2017 15:20:26 GMT
BTW if you run a tumbledrier or dehumidifier that's also a great source of deionized water.
Thanks for the tip
Will it not mean introducing fabric softener into the system using the former? lol
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pewe
Chats A Bit
Posts: 157 
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Post by pewe on Oct 31, 2017 12:04:29 GMT
Had a similar problem on the NA over the summer which only revealed itself whilst we were in Italy. Prior to the trip I'd replaced the rad, thermostat, rad cap and checked compressions etc.etc. to try and trace use of coolant. I did suspect the cold idle valve might be leaking but didn't get round to checking before we left. So 1000 miles from home the small steel pipe on the waterpump inlet pipe sprang a large leak rather than the dribble it must have previously been. It's on the run between the bottom of the thermostat housing and the manifold bolted to the block under the exhaust manifold. From the top there was no apparent leakage because:- a)it's out of sight, b) being close to the manifiold it evaporates off and c) it rusts from the inside out. Only real solution is to replace the manifold which MX5 Parts describe as "corroding badly & frequently causing leaks"! It's not a big job to replace especially from underneath after removing the undertray. I suggest checking by removing the rubber hoses and giving it a visual inspection, then a ring spanner levering vertically and horizontally to check its strength. If that fractures it you've lost nothing... The steel pipe off the thermo housing needs similar inspection. HTH. Cheers, Pewe PS I'm sure you can DIY by drilling out the steel pipe and replacing either with copper pipe or a brass water fitting, sealing with JB Weld but I didn't have the opportunity being so far from home! Incidentally first time I've experienced "pull your trousers down and bend over,sir" from a main stealer but there was little choice  |
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haha) so she pansies about in it usually! Want to get both of us to a handling day somewhere soon, just need to get the weird clonking from the front nearside sorted first, as it's not steering quite right...
lol
