johnnye
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Post by johnnye on Aug 16, 2018 11:36:05 GMT
To my shame.... life and work has got in the way of me rebuilding my mk2.5 which I stripped back for a rear end refurb in February 2016 
On the plus side, I've a few weeks off work and am determined to get the car back on the road.
I seem to recall there's a workshop recommended method of aligning this all up - involving a plank of wood? I'm sure I read that somewhere - reason being to use it as a level to make sure the prop shaft is kept level, minimising stress on the joint.
Am I dreaming?... or does anyone have a link to the workshop manual or a PDF that would have the details?
Car is a 2003 Mk2.5 Sport if that matters. 1.8VVT with fuji diff.
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Post by Whistler on Aug 16, 2018 12:00:12 GMT
Put a straight edge across the chassis rails and measure the distance between the top of the straight edge and the bottom of the PPF. It should be between 61-71mm for Manual cars and 51.5-61.5mm for automatic cars. Get it in the right place with the gearbox PPF blots slack then tighten them up. Bob's your uncle Fanny's your mother's sister.  I think that's right... I'll check the page in the manual when I get home. |
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Post by atlex on Aug 16, 2018 12:09:17 GMT
I took a straight edge and taped a piece of cardboard to it, with 66mm (the median between 61 and 71mm) sticking out proud of the straight edge, to measure the distance in-situ without fuss. Much easier than holding a straight edge in place and using a ruler or measuring tape.
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johnnye
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Post by johnnye on Aug 16, 2018 14:38:09 GMT
Absolutely brilliant... thanks to you both!
Am I right to say things should only be torqued up when the car is on its wheels? Its up on axle stands right now.
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Post by moro on Aug 16, 2018 14:40:37 GMT
Absolutely brilliant... thanks to you both! Am I right to say things should only be torqued up when the car is on its wheels? Its up on axle stands right now. No need for that, on wheels or not, engine/gearbox/diff positioning doesn't change. |
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le sigh