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Post by atlex on Jul 13, 2020 20:42:10 GMT
Last year I noticed that the car wasn't cooling as efficiently as it could in the middle of summer on the motorway, so I took the front license plate off and that 'solved' the problem with more airflow. It's a new rad though, so huh ?  This year I've had a good look at the rad cap (due to other issues) and found it to be properly defective and holding bugger-all pressure (the hoses were still soft when the engine was warmed up) - well... that'd explain the problems from the year before Fitted a Gates RC133 (1.1 bar) rad cap (made in england!!) and the rad hoses are properly turgid now woop. I just got used to the rad fan coming on all the damn time and thought it was normal. Complacency huh  |
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Post by wannabe on Jul 13, 2020 22:00:18 GMT
The simple fixes are the best!  Summer appears to have forgotten to come so far this year, though  lol |
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Post by atlex on Dec 29, 2020 21:45:38 GMT
Last few parts of the puzzle are there for getting this car registered in Spain. The lights came back from the Dutch Gigolo (bless his soul) and now I just need to find a way get the emissions down. Going to replace the lambda sensor, check the exhaust isn't leaking, give it 98 octane, octane booster and injector cleaner and take it for the retest and lastly I remove the offroad lights (they don't like them!!) |
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Post by wannabe on Dec 29, 2020 23:34:33 GMT
Going to replace the lambda sensor, check the exhaust isn't leaking, give it 98 octane, octane booster and injector cleaner and take it for the retest I recall that making sure that everything was up to temperature and the cat was really hot was another way to get the emissions down, although you sort of need to drive straight in to the test when you arrive for that to happen! |
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Post by atlex on Jan 17, 2021 19:40:26 GMT
Retest is probably tomorrow. Going to a mate's garage first to inspect the exhaust and check a few other bits. I'll toss in the octane booster if we can't find the leak Also solved a minor annoyance today. The exhaust heatshield was really rattly on cold startup but once it expanded with the heat it would go silent. typical rusty bolt problem Put in some SS hardware with some copper grease on the threads. Startup is now as lovely as you'd expect.. |
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Post by atlex on Jan 17, 2021 19:47:44 GMT
The one nut that wouldn't come off by hand, was rounded off by the impact wrench and a 10mm So then I hammered on a 9mm on and gave it the beans but by hand. That don'er. I kept the end of it on the captive bolt and and gave her a few side taps to get the 9mm off... No cracks on the 9mm so yay. Also put in some Philips Racing Vision 200+ Halogen H4s to recover some of the brightness since the Dutch Gigolo Headlight Modifier's work has kind of made the lights a bit too weak on the original bulbs. |
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Post by Zed. on Jan 17, 2021 20:53:24 GMT
Philips Racing Vision 200+ Halogen H4 heard good reports on these bulbs  Rich. |
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Post by atlex on Jan 18, 2021 20:54:24 GMT
The ITV saga is now come to a close :-)
Went to visit my mates at the Initial D Garage and checked out the exhaust. it isn't leaking. Also checked out the gasses coming out having put in some cat cleaner. Previous ITV test gave 0.57% CO, over the limit of 30. The test with the my mates (admittedly poorly calibrated) gas tester showed it was now down to about 0.46%, which is at least in the right direction.
I then put in a witch's brew . cocktail of additives on my half tank of 98. Going for the 'nuke it and try' approach....
A bottle of Octane booster (for a 50-60 litre tank..) and some Ecomax (injector cleaner and mild octane booster) (50ML for a 50litre tank) and an 'ITV Gasoline' additive recommended by my Weaboo Garage mates.
Paid the ITV retest cost.. .. 13 euros.
Kept the revs up at 4-6K until they got the gas tester out :-)
Well the CO reading was 0.20% so Canoe YEAH, just like it was at the last MOT in the UK.
I had addressed all their list of complaints the first time but then they 'noticed' that the headlights were all cabletied in (they were before) and that the reverse light wasn't an incandescent (it was an LED before too). they Canoeing hate LEDs here lol. The stupid thing is that all the non-white lights were LED anyway. They can only tell an LED if it gives off the colder brighter white light. Canoeing moving targets right.
Went home, whipped up bolts and brackets and the old incandescent reverse light..
Went back to the test centre and paid ANOTHER 13 euros (I was way over the '1 free retest' date) and SHE WAS THROUGH!
I will naturally never use that test centre again but at least I paid only another 26 euros instead of the full 120 importation cost at another centre.
The best I can say for the chaps at that centre is that they like to 'paja con guantes' which roughly translates to 'self-canoe with gloves'.
I've now reverted ALL the things back to LED, put on the breather filter again... Put on the offroading lights again.. etc.
Happy days. They're all through.
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Post by dadbif on Jan 18, 2021 22:35:03 GMT
Bien hecho, siempre se siente mejor cuando puedes vencer al sistema en España. 👍👍👍
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Post by atlex on May 31, 2021 21:47:45 GMT
She be on spanish plates now and I'm treating her. New front arms and ball joints. (thanks be to Mapco). The old ones bushings were toasted. Oh what a feeling to be on new arms. New clutch master (she was leaking past the seals, it was like a random clutch) New exhaust in the works. Extra quiet tho. Need to sort out the steering now, she goes a bit to the right if you straighten the wheel I suspect someone cocked a steering wheel removal and got it off by one on the splines. |
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Post by atlex on Oct 14, 2021 21:38:08 GMT
my beloved SWMBO has lunched the clutch on a hill start, probably with the help of the earlier failing clutch master. It now only takes a bit of full throttle to spin up the motor in any gear gently does it I said. Still, we're keeping it oldschool with manual shifting here in this house. And there's always a catch somewhere. What's that smell ? Needless to say, I've been researching clutches. Turns out there's no availability anywhere in europe of the exedy that's recommended so I've had to dig through reams of part codes. It's a toyota 'E' gearbox so has a different spline to the regular 'C' FWD gearboxes that this engine was usually attached to. has a different shaft and spline count etc. |
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Post by atlex on Oct 15, 2021 22:45:26 GMT
I've manage to order the correct Aisin cover and release bearing but all the specific clutches aren't available, from any manufacturer. It's the same clutch as was in the AE92/95 4WD cars and the AW11 Supercharged MR2s... There's literally NOTHING in europe that perfectly lines up on 'perfect part code' from any of the usual suspects.
So instead of crying I've gone and looked at alternatives - I've ended up ordering two clutches from Aisin with the identical specs on dimension - offset, teeth, OD, ID. One of which is an FJ40 clutch the other is a hi-ace one. We'll see which of them fit. They _almost_ cross ref as well, some sites think they are equivalent, some don't... Best case scenario is they're both good and I then have another spare. Worst case, return!
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Post by wannabe on Oct 16, 2021 12:55:48 GMT
The joys of running older and rarer cars... lol
I don't understand how anyone runs some of these 'only 10 left on the road' vehicles!
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Post by atlex on Oct 16, 2021 13:26:47 GMT
The joys of running older and rarer cars... lol I don't understand how anyone runs some of these 'only 10 left on the road' vehicles! Sheer bloodymindedness. |
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Post by dadbif on Oct 16, 2021 21:03:37 GMT
It’s no fun if it’s easy!
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lol
