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Post by Whistler on Feb 17, 2019 18:23:37 GMT
Yesterday I removed the front wings and bumper and was pleasantly surprised. There was minimal rust and I only broke one bolt (which was entirely my fault for being ham-fisted). I obviously want to keep the car in good condition - what do I need to do to treat and protect it for the future? If I go for POR 15 which products do I need? De-greaser is a given (I think), do I need the Metal Prep, or can I just paint over inner wing with the POR Rust Preventative Paint? Any input will be very much appreciated.
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Post by wannabe on Feb 17, 2019 19:10:30 GMT
I am jealous of your lack of rust lol Bilt Hamber and Dinitrol products are the ones I've seen recommended / am looking at myself. You could do a zinc undercoat before any rustproof topcoat? Bilbo did post some pictures of his de-rusting work
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Post by Zed. on Feb 17, 2019 19:28:10 GMT
I have a new passanger side wing for my car, I now refuse to change it as I know the car will not look as good as yours Rich.
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Post by wannabe on Feb 17, 2019 20:43:22 GMT
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Post by atlex on Feb 17, 2019 21:20:54 GMT
that chassis behind the wing looks lovely. ^^ be proud ^^
Dynax S50 or Dinitrol are great undersealants - if you want some long-term protection on non-rusty underbody areas. Don't bother with waxoil, it's been superceded.
I've had one car S50'd - my blue low-mileage one. I've also found evidence on the white car of waxoil but it looks old and was stupidly applied,
I use ACF50 as an annual treatment (pre-winter prep, each year) - pretty much like bikers use it. I try and blast the arches, spray up inside the sills, behind the wings, on the insides of the wings, areas around the engine bay which give access to the chassis, etc.
ACF50 is much lighter than an underseal - it's much heavier than say, WD40 though, and actually effective - but it has some cool properties - it can wick excellently into rust, and evacuate moisture from that rust to the surface, so there's no water getting to the metal beneath. It lasts a while too, unlike WD40 which barely contains any actual oil.
Another option, if you have exposed rust.. aquasteel. It's a mix of wine acid (I forget the name - stinks of vinagre) and a rubber in liquid form, you clean up the rust you can get to (with a wire brush) and spray this on - it turns the red oxide into black oxide, and leaves a rubber-like coat above that.
I've used the raw form of the wine acid before and it is great for nuking surface rust off an existing rusty thing, the idea is to get the loose red oxide off and then treat it to go black - so there is just black oxide and metal beneath (it then acts like a primed piece) - you can then paint it over with something like hammerite, which if applied property will outlast the car.
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Post by atlex on Feb 17, 2019 21:21:57 GMT
A video of a chap treating his scooby with aquasteel..
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Post by Whistler on Feb 18, 2019 20:19:14 GMT
Thanks guys. I still can't decide whether to go for the Dinitrol or the POR, but I will keep you posted.
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