|
|
Post by dadbif on Feb 25, 2019 22:30:12 GMT
The sensor hole in the block of my NA is 10mm but the bore of the knock sensor is 8mm, has anybody tried reaming the sensor bore out to 10mm? Is there enough meat there?
|
|
|
|
Post by Zed. on Feb 25, 2019 23:14:00 GMT
The sensor hole in the block of my NA is 10mm but the bore of the knock sensor is 8mm, has anybody tried reaming the sensor bore out to 10mm? Is there enough meat there? stepped-stud  can easily replace sensor's if needed Rich. (not that my car has a knock-sensor but thats how I'd do it  ) |
|
|
|
Post by dadbif on Feb 26, 2019 6:27:07 GMT
Me too, I intend going through my bits boxes today, I have plenty of old exhaust studs, but I reckon they will be UNC/UNF, my initial searches for metric 10/1.25 x 8 have so far proved fruitless.
I don’t want to mount it on the starter motor mount, that’s a cop out, there is a tapped boss above the oilf filter.
|
|
|
|
Post by Zed. on Feb 26, 2019 11:13:13 GMT
could always weld an m8 bolt to an m10 jobbie, probably over-engineering (or overkill??)  I'll have a dig in the workshop, will have some somewhere but if I cannot find one I might get charitable & make one....................... but I'm sure they are abailable as thread-reclaimers  Rich. |
|
|
|
Post by dadbif on Feb 26, 2019 14:35:50 GMT
I’ve drawn a blank in my bitts box, nothing with 1.25 thread, I wonder if I could bond a thread insert into the boss, the sensor is only lightly torqued up...
Life would be easier with the engine out
|
|
|
|
Post by dadbif on Feb 26, 2019 14:40:19 GMT
M8 Thread insert has 11mm od, back to the search
|
|
|
|
Post by martiny on Feb 27, 2019 14:59:42 GMT
FM sell an adapter; steel hex block with an M10x1.25 stud on one side and an M8x1.25 hole on the other. www.flyinmiata.com/knock-sensor-mount.html I thought about welding M8 and M10 bolts head-to-head but eventually just bought the FM part. |
|
|
|
Post by Zed. on Feb 27, 2019 15:44:02 GMT
or, a lump of metal (steel?) with a 10mm clearance hole through it (for a suitable sized m10 bolt) and drilled / tapped m8 for the sensor securing bolt? maybe quicker than ordering transatlantic although I do buy a lot of odd and rare parts from CONUS Rich. |
|
|
|
Post by dadbif on Feb 27, 2019 16:22:47 GMT
Found an m10 1.25 bolt, now I just need an m8 tap, will drill and tap it and then file the head flat to provide a good surface for the sensor, hopefully the bolt won’t be too hard
|
|
|
|
Post by dadbif on Feb 28, 2019 21:46:45 GMT
All done, found a tap, drilled and tapped bolt as planned, just waiting for the knocksense MS from the states now...
|
|
|
|
Post by atlex on Dec 30, 2021 19:46:05 GMT
I'm doing this process at the moment also and I'm trying the helicoil setup, M8x1.25 ID helicoil with M10 od spec.
|
|
|
|
Post by warpspeed on Dec 31, 2021 5:56:10 GMT
The sensor hole in the block of my NA is 10mm but the bore of the knock sensor is 8mm, has anybody tried reaming the sensor bore out to 10mm? Is there enough meat there? One solution to that is to use a thread repair insert.
Provided the thread pitch is the same, to repair a damaged 8mm thread, you drill out the old thread and tap the hole to 10mm, screw in the insert, and you then have a very strong new repaired 8mm tapped hole.
If you already have a tapped 10mm hole, an 8mm thread insert will go strait in converting the hole to an 8mm thread with the same pitch. You don't need to buy the whole expensive repair kit with the drill, the M10 tap and the weird tool. Just the bare inserts. |
|
|
|
Post by atlex on Dec 31, 2021 12:49:44 GMT
The sensor hole in the block of my NA is 10mm but the bore of the knock sensor is 8mm, has anybody tried reaming the sensor bore out to 10mm? Is there enough meat there? One solution to that is to use a thread repair insert.
Provided the thread pitch is the same, to repair a damaged 8mm thread, you drill out the old thread and tap the hole to 10mm, screw in the insert, and you then have a very strong new repaired 8mm tapped hole.
If you already have a tapped 10mm hole, an 8mm thread insert will go strait in converting the hole to an 8mm thread with the same pitch. You don't need to buy the whole expensive repair kit with the drill, the M10 tap and the weird tool. Just the bare inserts. I've insalled this on my car now (the one that hit a sheep last night) You do need some kind of tool to install them, but making it yourself I'd go with 6mm rod with a cut across the tip centre, or a long thin prong-type security bit. You do need to put some tension on the tang to get it in. And getting the busted tang out of a blind hole is a pain without a compressed air source. If the tang doesn't brake off and bottoms out I'd just leave it in and attached. You don't need more than the first 5 threads to attach the knock sensor. |
|
|
|
Post by dadbif on Dec 31, 2021 15:20:53 GMT
This was my final solution  |
|
|
|
Post by Zed. on Dec 31, 2021 21:43:07 GMT
|
|
)
le sigh
Jul 15, 2023 20:03:52 GMT
le sigh
Jul 15, 2023 20:03:52 GMT