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Post by rsnick on Mar 28, 2019 13:40:00 GMT
Reverted to new stock drop links all round. These - as image - were great on smooth tarmac but very crashy on anything else.
hth
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Post by wannabe on Mar 28, 2019 19:15:46 GMT
Did that fail on the car when driving??  |
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Post by rsnick on Mar 28, 2019 22:30:07 GMT
I've no idea when it happened as I don't push on too much during my daily commute, I did noticed a little looseness which I put down to high tyre pressures.
There is no sign of impact or fault in the structure itself, the failure might due to the extra stress of my thicker Flying Miata sway bars that stressed the link, who knows...
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Post by atlex on Mar 28, 2019 22:45:19 GMT
Whose makes/sells those droplinks ? Are those made of Ali on the ends ?
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Post by rsnick on Mar 29, 2019 0:02:37 GMT
I think they are these:
I have had them for around 8 years.
CNC machined ally.
Next time I shall get steel ones with proper rose joints.
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Post by niklas on Mar 30, 2019 13:04:44 GMT
Yup, racing beat ones.
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Post by wannabe on Mar 30, 2019 13:48:58 GMT
If it's not too stupid a question  what is the point of them? Does one increase the length to preload the anti roll bars and reduce roll? |
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Post by rsnick on Mar 30, 2019 13:58:24 GMT
Not stupid at all.
The bushings are firmer and reduce any percieved sloppyness; and as you correctly mentioned lengthening or shortening the rod itself allows you to change handling characteristics. Coupled with adjustable sway (anti-roll) bars and 'our' excellent suspension geometry adjustment this allows precise tuning. You do need corner scales if you really know what you are doing. Got mine set up by Wheels-in-Motion using their Fast Road setup.
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Post by wannabe on Mar 30, 2019 17:37:47 GMT
Not stupid at all. The bushings are firmer and reduce any percieved sloppyness; and as you correctly mentioned lengthening or shortening the rod itself allows you to change handling characteristics. Coupled with adjustable sway (anti-roll) bars and 'our' excellent suspension geometry adjustment this allows precise tuning. You do need corner scales if you really know what you are doing. Got mine set up by Wheels-in-Motion using their Fast Road setup. Ah, cool, that sounds like some science to learn! (Need to forget something else to make room for that, lol.) I like the fact we have such adjustability in our suspension but it's also a PITA - unless one can DIY with string and all that jazz, getting it set up properly seems to cost £££, and even with half a clue of the different effects of toe / castor / camber, it doesn't mean we know what we actually prefer until we try it - if we hate it, it's another £££ to change it...  I'm considering winding off some castor at my next alignment, to reduce steering effort at lower speeds with the depowered PAS rack, but would, say, 4 degrees instead of 5+ mean it feels a bit unsettled and dive about at speed? I don't know and I'm not sure there's a definitive guide anywhere... lol Anyway, rant over for now   |
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Post by FFS Corders on Mar 30, 2019 19:57:01 GMT
If you go to Wheel Alignment Centre near Southampton, they do a fast road mx5 alignment for under £35
We should probably have another meet there
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Post by rsnick on Mar 30, 2019 23:27:41 GMT
Not stupid at all. The bushings are firmer and reduce any percieved sloppyness; and as you correctly mentioned lengthening or shortening the rod itself allows you to change handling characteristics. Coupled with adjustable sway (anti-roll) bars and 'our' excellent suspension geometry adjustment this allows precise tuning. You do need corner scales if you really know what you are doing. Got mine set up by Wheels-in-Motion using their Fast Road setup. Ah, cool, that sounds like some science to learn! (Need to forget something else to make room for that, lol.) I like the fact we have such adjustability in our suspension but it's also a PITA - unless one can DIY with string and all that jazz, getting it set up properly seems to cost £££, and even with half a clue of the different effects of toe / castor / camber, it doesn't mean we know what we actually prefer until we try it - if we hate it, it's another £££ to change it... I'm considering winding off some castor at my next alignment, to reduce steering effort at lower speeds with the depowered PAS rack, but would, say, 4 degrees instead of 5+ mean it feels a bit unsettled and dive about at speed? I don't know and I'm not sure there's a definitive guide anywhere... lol Anyway, rant over for now Lanny Chambers developed a set-up some years ago, you should be able to find him on the net somewhere. The old BRP forum had some very good self setup info if you are methodical -I'm not - The 'Lanny' set-up I used for a while wore the insides of the tyres but did work well, however I find WIM Fast Road great, very predictable. lots of feel and doesn't scrub yer rubber.
The place in Southampton Corders mentions sounds worth a punt.
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Post by mark42 on Mar 31, 2019 12:19:59 GMT
If you go to Wheel Alignment Centre near Southampton, they do a fast road mx5 alignment for under £35 We should probably have another meet there When you say near Southampton do you mean the one in Southampton pretty close to the docks (SO15 1HA), or is there another? I’d be interested in getting a fast road setup done. |
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Post by wannabe on Apr 1, 2019 9:00:26 GMT
If you go to Wheel Alignment Centre near Southampton, they do a fast road mx5 alignment for under £35 We should probably have another meet there Is that full laser alignment of castor/camber/toe? That is cheap - I think I paid £105 last time, and that was the 'discount' rate for the MX5OC... (which I'm not a member of, lol). If they're not far from Skuzzle then it could be cool to have a day/weekend of rolling road runs and alignment! |
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Post by wannabe on Apr 1, 2019 9:30:28 GMT
Lanny Chambers developed a set-up some years ago, you should be able to find him on the net somewhere. The old BRP forum had some very good self setup info if you are methodical -I'm not - The 'Lanny' set-up I used for a while wore the insides of the tyres but did work well, however I find WIM Fast Road great, very predictable. lots of feel and doesn't scrub yer rubber.
Thanks for the info! Looks like there's a couple of version of the Lanny figures: www.ringcar.com/10_f9a570dd703a71d4_1.htm >>> users.telenet.be/miata/english/suspension/alignment_lanny.htmwww.motorsforum.com/mazda-miata/alignment-question-5768-.htm >>> www.hummingbirds.net/alignment.htmlI think the second set is a later set of numbers, but as he says on the pages, as long as you take off / add camber equally at each end (which seems to be the difference between the two sets of numbers above), and maintain a 0.5degree difference between the front and rear, all should be fine. He also seems to say that some slight Toe In at the back is a good idea, as weight in the vehicle and bumps causes the rear wheels to add some Toe Out, which he says is baaaaad - a little bit of Toe In therefore seemingly cancels out the Toe Out under load, meaning it should stay not very oversteer-y (if I've read it correctly): |
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Post by noobie on Apr 2, 2019 6:16:15 GMT
Lanny's alignment...more proof that MX5s really aren't any more sensitive to alignment settings than other cars.. I'd uhhh...recommend checking a few other available resources.
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what is the point of them? Does one increase the length to preload the anti roll bars and reduce roll?
le sigh
Jul 15, 2023 20:03:52 GMT