Rasc
Chats A Bit
Nutz troll apparently
Posts: 130 
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Post by Rasc on Oct 20, 2019 16:07:54 GMT
Hypothetical question, honest.
Suppose you have just had you rear sills repaired and overall the work carried out was to a high standard and your feeling quite smug that those rusty rear sills and arches are a thing of the past.
imagine then your horror that during a closer inspection your local repair dude has welded up the drain holes completely by mistake! Would simply drilling some in place be a solution? If so does it have to be through the seam as per the original placement?
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Post by wannabe on Oct 20, 2019 17:01:26 GMT
However it's fixed, make sure it's zinced and painted inside the hole!
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Post by dadbif on Oct 20, 2019 19:12:57 GMT
Do it on the seams, they are at the lowest point.
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Rasc
Chats A Bit
Nutz troll apparently
Posts: 130
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Post by Rasc on Oct 20, 2019 20:11:41 GMT
Do it on the seams, they are at the lowest point. Yeah, that’s what I was thinking. Two 8mm holes, same areas as stock, drill, protect / zinc / wax edges and dinitrol the hell out of them internally. |
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Post by Zed. on Oct 20, 2019 20:42:07 GMT
Do it on the seams, they are at the lowest point. Yeah, that’s what I was thinking. Two 8mm holes, same areas as stock, drill, protect / zinc / wax edges and dinitrol the hell out of them internally. only needs to be about 2-3mm, just enough to drain  Rich. |
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Post by dadbif on Oct 21, 2019 7:14:37 GMT
There is a Mazda service bulletin knocking around that Details the fix, think it is somewhere on the yank Miata.net site. Any hole is better than none.. Here it is www.miata.net/garage/tsb/s034_94.html |
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Post by atlex on Oct 21, 2019 9:00:55 GMT
Be careful what you put in, if you just fill it with wax-based stuff, that can block up the drain holes again. You want water to flow *out*. The 'emptier' the space inside the sill, the better. I think Dinitrol is too thick. And Waxoil, while it is a cavity wax, can block the holes, and is outclassed by newer products as an undersealant and cavity wax and its just too thick.
.... I recommend ACF50, which is an oil, which won't wax up, and which, if there is rust, will suck/wick into any rust inside the oxide and block any water reaching the fresh metal behind it.... and it can't block your drain holes.
Drill the drain holes out, take the door sills/scuff covers off each autumn and blast ACF50 back and forth between and infront of and behind the holes you get access to from the top. I also raise the car up and stick the sprayer straw of the ACF50 can up the drain holes to get more coverage.
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Post by atlex on Oct 21, 2019 9:02:56 GMT
Yeah, that’s what I was thinking. Two 8mm holes, same areas as stock, drill, protect / zinc / wax edges and dinitrol the hell out of them internally. only needs to be about 2-3mm, just enough to drain Rich. Agreed, the original holes were, well, barely 1mm. I tend to stop my drilling at 6mm. |
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Rasc
Chats A Bit
Nutz troll apparently
Posts: 130
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Post by Rasc on Oct 21, 2019 16:55:08 GMT
Thanks for the response guys, appreciated.
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le sigh