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Post by boggissimo on Oct 1, 2022 11:41:21 GMT
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Post by atlex on Oct 1, 2022 16:04:19 GMT
Oh Ship.
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Post by boggissimo on Oct 4, 2022 8:21:27 GMT
After the leaking on Saturday I was fed up and went for a bike ride with the kids, then did some gardening. We did the Tour of Kent in the Legacy, which was probably more comfortable anyway and it wasn't really a roof down sort of day, although we did look a bit out of place next to all the Triumphs and MGBs:  Back in the garage last night, took all the stuff off the front of the engine, took the timing covers and belts off and then the water pump, to discover that the gasket on the back of the water pump was crumpled and had ripped, so hopefully that's the only reason there was a leak. Luckily I had a spare water pump and gaskets so after much swearing and uncertainty whether the new one had ripped too, I got it back in. Did the timing again, put the covers and belts back on, by which time it was getting pretty late. So tonight I need to tighten the belts, connect it all up again and put some coolant in. If there aren't any leaks then we should be good to go... |
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Post by boggissimo on Oct 5, 2022 8:00:03 GMT
Filled it up last night and it was still leaking!  Rather than set fire to it, and because I was confident that I'd done the water pump properly and didn't want to strip it all down and do the timing again, I took a few bits off to try to find where it was coming from, and found the culprit - that small 90 degree connecting pipe up into the thermostat (that comes off the pipe going into the water pump). It had a small hole but enough to let a steady stream of coolant leak out. I swapped it over with the same piece from the other engine, put some more coolant in....and no leak! So either it was just that when I first filled it up, or it was both that hole and the water pump gasket leaking. Either way, glad to get it done. Started the engine and it had a very low idle and didn't respond well to throttle, but that improved after a while warming up. Will have a look with the timing light next time I'm out there and see what's what. Lots of smoke coming from around the exhaust, not from the manifold so must be stuff that dripped onto the exhaust pipe while it was going out and back in again. I've run out of time to be confident of taking it on the rally this Friday, so will do that in the Scoob and hope we don't need to do any three-point turns! |
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Post by boggissimo on Oct 18, 2022 8:56:41 GMT
OK, after a week or so avoiding the garage, I went out last night, hoping to be able to take the car out for a drive. Since the last time it was on the road it was wearing R888Rs for the track, I needed to swap over to the more sensible Rainsport 5s, so that took a while. Then I had to move all the wheels, engine crane and other crap that has been blocking the car into the garage while it wasn't moving. Then I needed to check the timing as when I started it previously, it ran with a very low idle and didn't respond well to throttle.
I adjusted the idle to ~900 rpm which took a few whole turns of the screw. Timing light connected and I couldn't see the timing mark at all. Checked where it should be on the other engine, found it, and painted a little white mark on to help me see it. Then started again and the timing mark was way off below zero. So I adjusted the CAS position as far as it goes, but it still didn't even get to the 10 degree mark. It's running much better and responds to throttle properly, but I was hoping to get it at least to the stock timing mark. Does this mean my timing belt is a tooth out? I spent ages getting it right, or so I thought. And would it run properly if it's a tooth out? I took the CAS off before fitting the engine, and put the CAS back once the engine was in, so could I have put the CAS innards in the wrong place (180 degrees out)?
Anyway, I thought sod it, I'll take it for a drive anyway. But when I went to put it into gear, it wouldn't do anything, so I think I've messed up the clutch too. rear canoe.
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Post by Zed. on Oct 18, 2022 19:00:20 GMT
I adjusted the CAS position as far as it goes, but it still didn't even get to the 10 degree mark  Does this mean my timing belt is a tooth out? I spent ages getting it right, or so I thought. And would it run properly if it's a tooth out? sounds like it  the 1.6 would probably run with inlet advanced one tooth and exhaust retarded a tooth BUT I WOULD'NT TRY IT  could I have put the CAS innards in the wrong place (180 degrees out)? not without a hammer the camshaft drive slot is slightly offset so the cas drive 'dog' will only fit one way around  I thought sod it, I'll take it for a drive anyway. But when I went to put it into gear, it wouldn't do anything, so I think I've messed up the clutch too. did you fit a clutch? at least you can look in through the bellhousings clutch-fork hole to see if theres anything obvious  Rich. |
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Post by dadbif on Oct 19, 2022 7:39:41 GMT
Has the rubber bond on your crank pulley failed? If this happens the two halves can seperate and your timing marks become irrelevant.
It happens on lots of vehicles, including ours, sadly…
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Post by boggissimo on Oct 19, 2022 8:54:45 GMT
Has the rubber bond on your crank pulley failed? If this happens the two halves can seperate and your timing marks become irrelevant. It happens on lots of vehicles, including ours, sadly… Don't think so, seems perfectly normal, if a bit rusty. |
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Post by boggissimo on Oct 19, 2022 8:58:21 GMT
Does this mean my timing belt is a tooth out? I spent ages getting it right, or so I thought. And would it run properly if it's a tooth out? sounds like it I thought sod it, I'll take it for a drive anyway. But when I went to put it into gear, it wouldn't do anything, so I think I've messed up the clutch too. did you fit a clutch? at least you can look in through the bellhousings clutch-fork hole to see if theres anything obvious OK thanks Rich. Yes, I did fit a new clutch, haven't got underneath to see if it's something silly like the slave cylinder piston not in the end of the clutch fork. I know the slave cylinders go kaput sometimes, but it was working fine before I took the engine out. Also haven't checked the fluid or tried bleeding it yet. Will try the simple things first!
And yes, will check the timing again...
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Post by scottydugg on Oct 19, 2022 10:50:01 GMT
I find if you leave the clutch slave handing, the piston can pop out of position and it'll leak. Wouldn't be surprised if it just needs bled.
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Post by boggissimo on Oct 20, 2022 8:03:52 GMT
Sorted out the timing last night. Before taking all the front covers off, I took the cam cover off and went old skool by putting a big screwdriver down the number 1 plug hole. When I rotated the engine to TDC, both the inlet and exhaust cams were one tooth anticlockwise from where they should have been, so both cams were retarded (and that's also how I felt). Managed to get it set properly without taking off the fan/radiator/ARB and it runs much better. I set the advance to 14 degrees.
Ran out of time to get it back up in the air and look at the clutch, but when I tried to look underneath without jacking it up, I noticed that the rear end of the front O/S wing is rusting away, and the sill underneath isn't looking too smart either. Will have to have a proper look at it and it didn't raise an advisory on last December's MOT so it might just be the external wing panel...but probably not.
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Post by boggissimo on Oct 25, 2022 11:24:39 GMT
Tried to work out the problem with the clutch last night. I can't see anything through the boot-hole, but the fork moves easily enough. I bled the line (with the help of a glamorous assistant) and although the fluid was a bit below 'max' on the reservoir, it wasn't empty or too watery. Still couldn't get it into gear with the engine running.
The slave cylinder is looking pretty ropey and when I popped it out of the fork end, it did start to dribble fluid. So before disconnecting the gearbox from the engine to look inside, I was thinking of replacing the slave cylinder (and adding a braided line at the same time). Am I just chucking good money after bad?
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Post by dickie on Oct 25, 2022 16:11:45 GMT
Its an old Mazda so Yes !!!!!
It has never stopped me though ££££
Custom braided line straight from master to slave is a good idea. I made my own with Goodridge Parts, I used a 45 degree banjo at the master I can't remember what I used on the slave.
Its rare but possible that the clutch lever has failed in some way.
At least slave cylinders are not that expensive no need to go OEM.
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Post by boggissimo on Oct 26, 2022 9:53:54 GMT
Its an old Mazda so Yes !!!!! It has never stopped me though ££££ Custom braided line straight from master to slave is a good idea. I made my own with Goodridge Parts, I used a 45 degree banjo at the master I can't remember what I used on the slave. Its rare but possible that the clutch lever has failed in some way. At least slave cylinders are not that expensive no need to go OEM. Thanks dickie - I've ordered the Exedy one from Bofi and a braided line to go with it. Just wish I'd replaced it when the engine was out! And if it doesn't fix the problem, I will be  |
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Post by scottydugg on Oct 26, 2022 10:24:28 GMT
Good shout on the braided line, liquid coming out when removed, I'd get it swapped. Worst part of fitting the braided line is getting the old one out! Hope it fixes it for you.
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