Tom
Chats A Bit
Posts: 218
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Post by Tom on Nov 2, 2020 9:00:35 GMT
This is cool! Car is looking really nice and purposeful.
Love the centre console delete!
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Post by batou on Nov 2, 2020 11:20:26 GMT
A word on HT leads, I'm a sucker for JDM bits. I find some brand new boxed 'ULTRA power plug leads'. They crap all over the Jackson racing leads I had originally. They never seemed to seat well and went quite rigid after a while. The ultra leads have very robust connectors and and seem to vacuum suction onto the plug. I believe racing beat also make them. I have a used set knocking about. The packaging has lots of interesting diagrams and graphs on it. . Where did you pick up the leads from? The only reference I can find to similar ones were on racingbeat europe for £100ish, rhdjapan list some blue ones for £200 odd too. Damn. Also a sucker for JDM parts, stopping myself from buying a maxim works manifold because gearbox leak, need new front wings etc etc... that shiny mani tho... Car looks on point btw! Maybe a piglet compared to the Merc pig but maybe some blistered arches would fix that haha
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Post by swordspork on Nov 2, 2020 16:33:50 GMT
A word on HT leads, I'm a sucker for JDM bits. I find some brand new boxed 'ULTRA power plug leads'. They crap all over the Jackson racing leads I had originally. They never seemed to seat well and went quite rigid after a while. The ultra leads have very robust connectors and and seem to vacuum suction onto the plug. I believe racing beat also make them. I have a used set knocking about. The packaging has lots of interesting diagrams and graphs on it. . Where did you pick up the leads from? The only reference I can find to similar ones were on racingbeat europe for £100ish, rhdjapan list some blue ones for £200 odd too. Damn. Also a sucker for JDM parts, stopping myself from buying a maxim works manifold because gearbox leak, need new front wings etc etc... that shiny mani tho... Car looks on point btw! Maybe a piglet compared to the Merc pig but maybe some blistered arches would fix that haha The leads were - found like most of my parts - on the Bay (from Japan via france) very rare to find them new. You see them lots on 90s JDM cars, they are of much better quality to even some of the more 'premium' brands. I have a used set that I'd be willing to part with if anyone is interested I can upload pics and negotiate price. I am trying to take approach like the one I read about in a book about A-series engines by David Vizard the gist if I remember is to essentially improve each part by a few % to get a big change in aggregate. Being honest I didn't think the manifold made much difference when I changed mine - the Mazda original item is really quite good. They do look very cool in the engine bay though. I think someone with the 1.8 got 2hp with the maxim works header - although the 4-2-1 design apparently shifts the torque a bit. If you've got a 1.6 I'd suggest getting the AFM and timing tweaked on a dyno mine had already been fiddled with so gains wern't huge (around 3-4hp) but for around £100 you can net some nice power and torque.
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Post by swordspork on Nov 2, 2020 16:45:12 GMT
It does. You can't just remove the AFM but you can if you have mappable ecu and Iat sensor. It's a more up to date and less restrictive solution. Ah, cool, I thought so - I was confused because the list in the OP doesn't mention an aftermarket ECU! I did just re-read and notice the new part was 3D printed, though - that's pretty cool Is it metal or plastic?? The ECU is mentioned in the original post at the bottom it is not in the list of mods - simply because it isn't fitted yet. The idea (and what I understand most people do) is to fit the AFM delete when the ECU is installed and mapped - That will happen eventually..... At the moment though I am enjoying the car as is. The lightweight flywheel has made it an absolute blast. The 3D printed part was made first in plastic then coated in Nickel (I think) - I have a connection that works in 3D printing so can get parts printed in various plastics and metals the majority of their stuff gets put on F1 cars so being on an MX5 is quite different.
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Post by wannabe on Nov 7, 2020 0:38:56 GMT
Ah, cool, I thought so - I was confused because the list in the OP doesn't mention an aftermarket ECU! I did just re-read and notice the new part was 3D printed, though - that's pretty cool Is it metal or plastic?? The ECU is mentioned in the original post at the bottom it is not in the list of mods - simply because it isn't fitted yet. The idea (and what I understand most people do) is to fit the AFM delete when the ECU is installed and mapped - That will happen eventually..... At the moment though I am enjoying the car as is. The lightweight flywheel has made it an absolute blast. The 3D printed part was made first in plastic then coated in Nickel (I think) - I have a connection that works in 3D printing so can get parts printed in various plastics and metals the majority of their stuff gets put on F1 cars so being on an MX5 is quite different. That could be a useful connection lol I've been looking at the lightweight flywheels as my clutch is rattly as hell on idle - they're just not very cheap!
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Post by swordspork on Dec 8, 2020 11:25:53 GMT
I bought another ECU to add to the list of things I plan to install this one is very obscure.
It was listed as a 'Wizard' ecu produced by deck tuning in Japan - I have found out next to nothing out about the company myself online but the owner I bought it from was using it on his mk1 1.6.
They had also got a screenshot from the Road&Ster magazine that gave some a brief bit of jingrish on the item. It appears it raises the rev limit to 7800rpm and gives around 10ps in the midrange.
I am sceptical, but I also can't leave these bits of JDM gold alone. Initial inspection of the ecu shows that it has indeed been fiddled with. Knowing very little about electronics myself and only looking at pictures of standard boards on B63H stamped ECU's.
In the early 90's the ECU cost a mind boggling 120,000 yen - I paid nowhere near that.
Will this ancient and mystical JDM artifact work with my engine? Will any performance be gained? Will something break in catastrophic fashion? Who the hell knows. Stay tuned to find out.
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Post by Zed. on Dec 8, 2020 11:52:29 GMT
if you search in the old depths of Miata.net theres mention of altered ecu's, iirc theres a 'crystal' that can be replaced that alters summint is there actually an improvement or is it like the emperor's new clothes? Rich.
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Post by dadbif on Dec 8, 2020 12:18:01 GMT
I think it’s similar to altering the clock speed on a pc, from what I’ve read the main effect was increasing the Rev limit?
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Post by swordspork on Dec 10, 2020 10:01:14 GMT
I opened up the casing on the ecu and there was what I have found out is a daughterboard. I will try and get some pics of this.
I went out for a drive with and all seemed to work ok - I plan to get the car dyno'd again as I haven't since 2018 when I was at Skuzzle. I will aim to get a comparison of this ecu vs stock. Not really sure why I am doing this I suppose I am just curious.
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Post by swordspork on Dec 10, 2020 12:51:26 GMT
I was a little worried about removing the ECU cover as I know that if any leaks happen the footwell can get soaked and begins to rot. Everything looked quite clean and untouched. I'll replace the cover plate soon.
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Post by swordspork on Dec 18, 2020 15:16:31 GMT
Little update - I have replaced the ECU cover after running for a while with no cover and the ECU just bolted in place. I took the opportunity to remove a chunk of the disgusting insulation material that seems to be plastered on many of the surfaces. I'm not looking to reduce noise.
I recently purchased a blink cylinder head from a race car so will do a few posts on that once I get it. It is not the fully ported 'trackday' version that can be used in road cars but the version that meets BRSCC and 750 motor club racing regulations with a skim to bump up compression and 3 angle valve work. The chap selling it was very knowledgeable and mentioned that early heads flow better so seeing as I have an early head on my car right now I will definitely hang on to it and refresh/upgrade it more thoroughly over time.
The plan initially will be to run this head with standard cams and this wizard ecu and get the thing mapped in future on my me221 which is still in its sodding box.
I have done quite a bit of reading on fitting a new head gasket - besides the obvious head gasket can anyone suggest what other seals and gaskets I should change at the same time?
I will try and catalogue things more visually on here. I will do most of the work myself and hopefully rope in a friend to help at points.
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Post by swordspork on Dec 23, 2020 18:35:14 GMT
I got the head today. It came with caps and the full complement of HLAs which I was happy to see as it means I have a spare set. I did notice a couple bits of metal shavings.....so yeah cleaned them out. What can I do myself to check and clean the head in it's current state?
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Post by moclan on Dec 24, 2020 10:13:21 GMT
I’d be interested in a few pics of the exhaust and inlet ports to compare with my blink head
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Post by Zed. on Dec 24, 2020 10:46:52 GMT
What can I do myself to check and clean the head in it's current state? I usually wash parts in petrol, have an old army 'wok' (cooking pan about 2&1/2' diameter & 9" deep) thats been my dirty Parts-washer for 20 years & not worn out otherwise jetwash? dishwasher? but while you're thinking of cleaning, is the head used? if so maybe worth stripping & re-seating the valves / inspecting the guides & valves for wear I’d be interested in a few pics of the exhaust and inlet ports to compare with my blink head I'd be interested to see any differences, well apart from blueprinting Rich.
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Post by swordspork on Dec 24, 2020 12:06:11 GMT
I’d be interested in a few pics of the exhaust and inlet ports to compare with my blink head Yeah, sure can. I'll have a bit more of a stab with the cleaning first but I'd be interested to compare. Is yours the fully ported trackday head?
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