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Post by atlex on Nov 13, 2020 9:28:51 GMT
At some point a previous owner decided that filling the sills with waxoil was a smart move. I'm going to drill the drain holes out but there's a lot of waxoil or similar material in there. thinking .. heat gun or something like that ? to just let it melt out.  methods to melt waxoil without damaging anything else heh... |
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Post by atlex on Nov 13, 2020 9:30:30 GMT
Having a look at this image  hmmmmm. |
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Post by Zed. on Nov 13, 2020 10:06:39 GMT
waxoil is thinned with white spirit / parafin / kerosene / diesel etc. crimp the drains shut & flood / fill the sills with your choice of the above then simmer @ ambient temperature for however long you see fit  stupid question maybe but, why do you want to remove it  Rich. |
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Post by atlex on Nov 13, 2020 10:25:22 GMT
I want to remove it because I suspect it might be holding back water (from getting drained). I'd rather have a thin coating of ACF50 everywhere. but there is so much waxoyl that I can barely fit a nozzle in there.
Feel free to tell me I'm a dipship.
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Post by Zed. on Nov 13, 2020 10:50:07 GMT
Feel free to tell me I'm a dipship. do I need to?  if the cavity is sealed then I'd leave it untill it either needs weld / accident repair OR you realy have nothing else better to do than trying to coax a messy-goo from all areas of a somewhat complicated structure open the drains by all means, hopefully they're still effective yuo can overspray with ACF50, dunno if it reacts with waxoil etc. though  the PO of my '91 closed the sill-drains & filled the voids with waste-oil (actually oiled most of the car!) then drove around to aggitate before opening the drains & now theres a coating evrywhere... My guess is after ~3 years + it's drained away now so needs either re-oiling or some other treatment BUT I accept the inevitable AND can weld so will cross the repair-bridge when it's needed (also, oil / wax etc. coated steen structures are flammable so a pita to weld  ) Rich. |
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Post by atlex on Nov 13, 2020 10:56:34 GMT
Yeah I'm probably just over-thinking this. drill out the drain holes like I did on the other car and re-apply acf-50 through them and from above. should creep where it needs to....
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Post by wannabe on Nov 13, 2020 17:14:44 GMT
Yeah I'm probably just over-thinking this. drill out the drain holes like I did on the other car and re-apply acf-50 through them and from above. should creep where it needs to.... Re: drilling the drain holes, does it mean bare metal being exposed and then getting soaking wet when it drains, meaning rampant rust risk?? |
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Post by atlex on Nov 13, 2020 20:03:45 GMT
Yeah I'm probably just over-thinking this. drill out the drain holes like I did on the other car and re-apply acf-50 through them and from above. should creep where it needs to.... Re: drilling the drain holes, does it mean bare metal being exposed and then getting soaking wet when it drains, meaning rampant rust risk?? It's more like the opposite of this - drain holes are blocked or too small, Sill fills up with water, water never leaves, sill turns to rust. ... which in the standard case for the early MK1/NAs is quite common because the drain holes were tiny. ... hence this service bulletin to deal with this problem www.miata.net/garage/tsb/s034_94.htmlIt's better if the drain holes are drilled out or just 'cleared out' if they're already large enough. Any bare shiney metal will flash to a safe surface rust in no time, but you can always spray some oil in there to coat it. ACF50 is perfect for this problem  You could always give it a blast of spray paint too if that's your thing, but make sure the hole doesn't get blocked up. |
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Post by wannabe on Nov 13, 2020 21:18:26 GMT
Re: drilling the drain holes, does it mean bare metal being exposed and then getting soaking wet when it drains, meaning rampant rust risk?? It's more like the opposite of this - drain holes are blocked or too small, Sill fills up with water, water never leaves, sill turns to rust. ... which in the standard case for the early MK1/NAs is quite common because the drain holes were tiny. ... hence this service bulletin to deal with this problem www.miata.net/garage/tsb/s034_94.htmlIt's better if the drain holes are drilled out or just 'cleared out' if they're already large enough. Any bare shiney metal will flash to a safe surface rust in no time, but you can always spray some oil in there to coat it. ACF50 is perfect for this problem You could always give it a blast of spray paint too if that's your thing, but make sure the hole doesn't get blocked up. Ooh, good google-fu! I see it covers my concerns, as you have (thank you!)  re: this part: 8mm? Is that lengthways, from front to back? Or sideways, across the width of the sill? Or is it sort of upwards, to create some sort of half-moon shape?  I should probably go outside and look but it's cold and dark lol |
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Post by Zed. on Nov 13, 2020 21:29:52 GMT
if you let nature take its course, mx5 sills are self-draining Rich. |
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Post by dadbif on Nov 13, 2020 22:56:00 GMT
You could always try heating the area around the drain holes, waxoyl gets thinner with heat and should run out, mine still drips on a hot day (the car).....
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methods to melt waxoil without damaging anything else heh...
)
le sigh