|
Post by Fizbne on Apr 2, 2021 12:58:36 GMT
Yo. Long time. Sup. I FINALLY bit the bullet and bought a Jenvey ITB kit that I've now had for a fair few months now because it is very confuse. The Jenvey kit, which is very very expensive and should (in my opinion) be a bolt on solution to make dirty noise fun enjoyment time, is not a bolt on solution to make dirty noise fun enjoyment time. There are 4 donut shaped casting booby nipples on the underside of the manifold that require drilling and tapping with a 1/8 NPT tap so you can screw in a nipple vacuum things which need to go to a vacuum block which connects to the brake booster so you dont do leg presses every time to hit the brakes. I did notice however on the top of the ITB's there are what appears to be idle / bleed ports that can be completely removed. They're after the butterfly so is essentially a vacuum? My question is - can a nipple be screwed in to this, with the vacuum lines coming out of that to the vacuum block or will that not work at all? Sorry, can't explain things. But yeah some advice and clarification needed please. Is drilling & tapping the only way?
|
|
|
Post by dickie on Apr 2, 2021 15:01:58 GMT
You could be sensible and just use an electric vacuum boost pump, they are becoming more common.
|
|
|
Post by swordspork on Apr 2, 2021 15:30:01 GMT
Someone is spending serious wedge.
Surprising it's not ready to fit. I wonder if the danst kit needs the same work.
|
|
|
Post by dadbif on Apr 2, 2021 17:10:21 GMT
From memory when I last fitted Jenveys (on a 2.0xe) that is an idle bypass adjuster. Oh, and buy or borrow a carb balancer
|
|
|
Post by Zed. on Apr 2, 2021 17:39:09 GMT
drilling & tapping the manifold is easy (says me with a few tools...) my Jenvey manifold was fitted with brass stubs in the lower bosses when I bought it (secondhand) and they protruded ~ 5mm into the 'port' / airflow so consider this when making things fit amusingly, I removed the stubs and made blanking plugs as I care not for lazy brak-pedal assistance (& the issues that go with itb's & vacuum servo's without additional vacuum reservoirs) If I hadn't drastically port-matched my manifold (by ~6mm wider & taller) I could have offered a swap.... Rich.
|
|
|
Post by atlex on Apr 2, 2021 20:13:24 GMT
Just tap it yo. Don't use the idle adjusters because otherwise how else will you adjust them lol?
|
|
|
Post by boggissimo on Apr 3, 2021 9:35:42 GMT
I've been pondering getting some of these (or similar), but for the price was not expecting to have to do any engineering either!
|
|
|
Post by atlex on Apr 3, 2021 10:11:00 GMT
If I was building a new itb car I'd look at the danst welded or nils machined ones for the 4age itbs. www.hummelink-modifications.nl/webshop/ (I really like these) Sadly I think the nature of ITBs is that, it's always going to be a bit custom.
|
|
|
Post by atlex on Apr 3, 2021 10:25:03 GMT
I'd tap the jenveys about here tho: M10 or M12, aiming for a fat 4-10mm id for vac per port, should give a stronk vak. This is overkill id for a sensor reading but _perfect_ for the 'load' to do the brake booster. 20 minutes max with a drill press. Then make sure the source doesn't protrude into the runner. Ideally, it's flush with the inside. You might need to sand down (or space with a nut) the threaded feeds to get it spot on. Remmember on the RSA setup the only feed for the brake booster is the 4th runner which has a 8mm/10mm ID feed. So just one cylinder is enough to make good braking vac. But if you're doing it.. go big and do them all. :-) I think those 'suggested donut locations' are prarrie canoe because they're too lined up with the head studs.
|
|