So, got the cam cover off and looking at how to get HLAs out. My goal is to touch as little as possible.
Is it acceptable to simply take the cam shaft bering caps out, mark the positions of cam belt and then shove it all back in the same way? Or does this put too much stress on everything with the tension still on the cambelt?
(FYI, no i haven't driven it as it is piss cold today and the roads are really icy. I really can;t be rear canoed - I'm just going straight for the tinkering option...)
if you remove the top/front timing belt cover you can loosen the tensioners, remove the cam pulleys then remove the cams. As long as you're on TDC on the crank pulley, it's not too bad to get it all setup again when done. At least that's how I did it the second time removing my head.
So, got the cam cover off and looking at how to get HLAs out. My goal is to touch as little as possible.
Is it acceptable to simply take the cam shaft bering caps out, mark the positions of cam belt and then shove it all back in the same way? Or does this put too much stress on everything with the tension still on the cambelt?
(FYI, no i haven't driven it as it is piss cold today and the roads are really icy. I really can;t be rear canoed - I'm just going straight for the tinkering option...)
You won't get the lifters out without removing the cams
You won't get the cams out without removing the gears and caps
You won't get the gears off the cams safely without removing tension.....
pull the upper and side cambelt cover (you can do this without removing the coolant hose btw) - this is mostly so you can remove tension...
get it to TDC / lined up gears. marks lined up \ /
detension the belt
ziptie the cam gears to the belt
unbolt the cam gears and let them sag forwards
unbolt the caps and remove them
pull the cams out
voila
This is what I have doen after finding a few videos. Actually, i just rotated the engine so that none of the cams were pressing on the lifters rather than specifically look for TDC. First one was absolutely rock solid. And the rest feel like they are too.
But i don't have any bloody oil, becuase i had to give away my entire stash of all fluids/checmicals/aerosols/anythign useful before moving to the US (i had just bought all the oils to do a change in the mazda and in the T3 that we had). I had to get rid of so much stuff...
So, got the cam cover off and looking at how to get HLAs out. My goal is to touch as little as possible.
Is it acceptable to simply take the cam shaft bering caps out, mark the positions of cam belt and then shove it all back in the same way? Or does this put too much stress on everything with the tension still on the cambelt?
(FYI, no i haven't driven it as it is piss cold today and the roads are really icy. I really can;t be rear canoed - I'm just going straight for the tinkering option...)
( Just let it warm up and rev it mate. )
i was a bit bored today, and this feels like I am actually doing somethign useful...
Just putting everything back together. All but three were locked solid. That would explain the bag of spanners sound that made me prarrie canoe my pants.
Just putting everything back together. All but three were locked solid. That would explain the bag of spanners sound that made me prarrie canoe my pants.
You did the oil bath thing to repump them manually ?
Just putting everything back together. All but three were locked solid. That would explain the bag of spanners sound that made me prarrie canoe my pants.
You did the oil bath thing to repump them manually ?
Yep. They're were all full of oil, but the little plunger in the middle was stuck fast. Just opened that up removed a tiny bit of oil in that tiny plunger, put it back together then pumped it in the oil to remove air bubbles. They all went back to being fine apart from one that was still a bit sticky.
Got it mostly back together last night, before I was ordered in from the garage Just going to pop the cam cover back in and start it up this morning.
what you can do pumping it by hand isn't what the engine can do running them at steam - you've primed it but they'll quiet down properly after a real run. the engine sounds a lot better than it did (way less impacty on the tappets), to my ears.
Check your TDC / Cam gear marks again.
it's surprisingly easy to slip a tooth on front main cog without tension - since you took the cam gears off. There's a technique of timing the engine that you need to get -
you align the exhaust cam to the crank first first so you get tension between it and the crank, rotate engine, check it again, then rotate the engine at least one two full revolutions back to TDC on cyl1, then you do the intake side since that side has the tensioner, then you set the tension.. then rotate it again to check your work... this is the method off greg peters / car passion channel.
if you're having trouble alining the crank with the exhaust cam you need to start by getting slightly before TDC - the act of getting the belt onto the cog should pull the belt taught between ex cam and cog.
well, i managed to competely fuck up the timing. Not sure how.
Probably also because you wanted to take the cams out where it looked nice rather than where the timing marks all lined up.
The only way to 'guarantee' this is to check it religiously as above, or literally mark every cog and the belt as you take it off and then put it back on exactly. When I did this on my turbo car I had the damper pulley off and marked up the belt on the crank pulley cog too. Not really necessary but it removed the guesswork..
If you don't have nice marks on your crank pulley then you can still work with a long stick in the spark plug or a decent view of the of the crank pulley cog down past the tensioner and coolant outlet neck.
I think i did everything properly, and wound it round a couple of times to check them again. I think it was a tooth out, so moved it. But given I didn't have that hesitation before, I might give it another go. I did it first time round, and managed to get it right..
Always amazes me that the marks are as vague at they are.
Simon: 600 quid to get through an MOT 2 weeks ago and now my crank pulley has decided it would like to be Bluetooth le sigh
Jul 15, 2023 20:03:52 GMT
atlex: at least you can get new crank pulleys!! :-)
Jul 18, 2023 10:29:14 GMT
Simon: Alas! turns out the keyway in the crank is knackered!
Jul 18, 2023 15:45:49 GMT
Zed.: there are other ways to repair, how bad is it?
Jul 25, 2023 15:55:37 GMT
atlex: And a murray murray crimbo to you all :-)
Dec 24, 2023 22:20:35 GMT
Zed.: condiments of the seasoning?
Dec 26, 2023 11:10:41 GMT
queenie: Hiya fellas and fellettes. My name is Gary, I am 72, live in rural Victoria (Australia), am an unashamed Anglophile and own a gold 1998 NB. I bought her in 2016, reflecting at the time that I had wanted a car like this since age 15. Yep, took me 50 years!
Dec 31, 2023 5:58:34 GMT
Deleted: Hey guys, I’m 49 & from the UK here! Currently restoring/upgrading a Mazda MX5 Eunos Roadster. Got a lot of work to do 🤯😩🫣🤣
Jun 30, 2024 16:21:03 GMT
Simon: Nice and quiet in here, but I'm back with vengance! Car with a knackered crank is now having a full rust and engine resto at Basset Down! Will be spenny, but excited to have a 'good' car again.
Jul 2, 2024 16:29:20 GMT
le sigh